Getting going on Alpina B2S tribute.

[daicos35]

Thanks to many on this site I am making progress on my Alpina b2s tribute.

The car is a RHD CS, which was my first car, purchased down here in Australia for $8000, with some help from my parents, in 1988!!

Plan is to get everything working and serviced on the car, prior to a bare metal respray etc etc.

Have posted pics of engine bay here, have just installed a repro Alipina airbox and elbows and a csi airbox , both sourced from forum members, while also cleaning up all the wiring throughout the whole car.

Engine is m30b35. Long stroke crankshaft for a 3.3li, bored to 93.4, 10:1 custom forged pistons ( we get 98 gas down here), schrick cam, headers, mechanical advance distributor, thermofan, oil cooler.

Brake booster removed, with big bore master cylinder to compensate, manual steering, manual windows, 3.64 lsd, 5 speed od gear box, staggered 16 inch Alpinas.

Has a scheel interior, and gauge cluster, and bonnet pins, with black headliner on the way (original needs replacing anyway).

I will post some more pics once I move on to the body.

Will have alloy boot, bonnet, door skins, plexi rear windows, early alpina chin spoiler.

Goal is to optically mimic the alpina b2s, that was based on the early csl carb cars.

I will leave it badged as a CS, but reserve right to use any original e9 color (as opposed to being limited to carb csl colors)!

I am debating whether to put the ALPINA large stickers on the side of the car as I don't love them, may go with something like the picture attached, which is now on Alpinas website, despite the fact that I see no evidence , that that design was originally used on the car.

 

[Wes]

Where in Aus are you mate?

 

[Markos]

Very cool! Subscribed!

I’m doing the same thing if you ever want to compare notes. I have just everything I need save for a few top dollar (cough aluminum) items. Since I’m in foolish parts acquisition mode for another 18 months, I am taking this effort to the nth degree. I’ve acquired the oddball inventory such as fixed rear window brackets, manual steering box and spare column, perlon carpet, scheels front with tilt brackets, matching rears, correct hood pins, 36AH battery, 40mm struts, 380 Alpina steering wheel, 5 hole CSL wheels, stainless arches, lightweight rear bumper. I Still need spacers for 28mm brakes, aluminum bits, cam, pistons. My next bigger purchase is the plexi. I’m on the fence as far as the air dam goes. I prefer the carb CSL look over the B2S spoiler.

I’m also going to run a B35 on DCOE45’s and repo plenum with a CR gearbox and a 3.25 LSD. Carb CSL LSD was 3.45. I have a an open 3.45 but the taller diff is more CR friendly. I haven’t determined if I will run a Getrag 265/5 or a ZF 5 18/3. I have both but the ZF needs quite a bit of money to get it to Alpina spec.

I am envious of your 3.3L crankshaft. I’m curious to know if you intend to run a 300 degree cam, and where you sourced yours. I’m leaning towards dbilas or the somewhat unpublished Shcrick. Cat Cams has an offering as well. I think the stock B35 head is about as close as one could get to an period Alpina head. I have even pondered destroking the B35 with a 2.8 (80mm) crank or a 2.5 (71mm) crank. Creating a small displacement high revving version of the overbored m90. A fools errand I think.

Then after gathering this stuff, I still need to restore the body and paint it Colorado.

FWIW - The carb CSL was badged a 3.0CS. Same for the B2S, early ones anyway.

When you stick a CSL badge on an original carb CSL trunk lid, the L gets wedged up against the edge of the lid.

Compared to an injected CSL trunk, where
the holes were drilled for the actual CSL badge:

 

[Markos]

FYI - I see you are missing yours. Jaymic and the place in Poland have aluminum HL access covers.

 

[daicos35]

Thanks all.

Wes, I am based in Sydney.

Markos, your project, and your choices around it, are very similar to mine.

Colorado is great choice also, I am tossing up Taiga, Baikal, or Tundra, may be swayed toward the solid colors, mine was Verona originally. Color is the hardest choice for me!

Re Cam, Shrick 282.. Tossed up wilder, but decided on a slightly smoother running engine, given I have larger displacement for power anyway.

In considering high rev, short stroke, v longer stroke, I decided on torque, as a preference.

 

[Henny]

This is the most beautiful E9 i've ever seen, the (original?) Alpina B2S

 

[Wes]

Thanks all.

Wes, I am based in Sydney.

Markos, your project, and your choices around it, are very similar to mine.

Colorado is great choice also, I am tossing up Taiga, Baikal, or Tundra, may be swayed toward the solid colors, mine was Verona originally. Color is the hardest choice for me!

Re Cam, Shrick 282.. Tossed up wilder, but decided on a slightly smoother running engine, given I have larger displacement for power anyway.

In considering high rev, short stroke, v longer stroke, I decided on torque, as a preference.

I'm in Tassie mate. If you ever need to pick somebody's brain happy to ping you my number.

 

[daicos35]

Thanks Wes, will do

 

[stcos85]

do you have any more detail on your replacement to the brake booster as mine need rebuilding and looking for an alternative

 

[daicos35]

so mine is a RHD car, and had twin remote brake boosters, so the brake master is its own stand alone unit, as opposed to your left hookers, that have an integrated brake booster on the master.

so for me, v easy, i removed the boosters, and purchased a smaller bore RHD brake master, and re plumbed the brake lines.

question for you is, can you buy a smaller diameter lhd master, and run it without the integrated booster?

if not, i cannot see why a rhd master would not work, you may need to put some u - turns in the plumbing of the brake lines etc etc..

so i did it to save weight, get rid of the boosters that kept failing, and because i wanted to make the car as simple as possible, and not run vacuum to anything (including the distributor)..

braking pressure is a lot firmer(not quite race car), but you get used to it. travel is great, and is Australian street legal (they test how much pedal force is required to create a certain amount of G's of braking power, from a certain starting speed, then they repeat the test 15 times, to check for fade...)

either way, i would advise speaking to a local auto engineer / certifier , for local registration purposes first.. .

RHD master cylinder. PN 34311102219 fits a right hand drive 2002 and E21. It looks exactly like the PN 34311102812 (for E9, E12, E24) - except for its 2mm smaller bore.

 

[daicos35]

i should say, feel is not for everyone,, I also have a manual steering box, so kinda hard core, i love the cars overall feel, my wife does not...

 

[stcos85]

so mine is a RHD car, and had twin remote brake boosters, so the brake master is its own stand alone unit, as opposed to your left hookers, that have an integrated brake booster on the master.

so for me, v easy, i removed the boosters, and purchased a smaller bore RHD brake master, and re plumbed the brake lines.

question for you is, can you buy a smaller diameter lhd master, and run it without the integrated booster?

if not, i cannot see why a rhd master would not work, you may need to put some u - turns in the plumbing of the brake lines etc etc..

so i did it to save weight, get rid of the boosters that kept failing, and because i wanted to make the car as simple as possible, and not run vacuum to anything (including the distributor)..

braking pressure is a lot firmer(not quite race car), but you get used to it. travel is great, and is Australian street legal (they test how much pedal force is required to create a certain amount of G's of braking power, from a certain starting speed, then they repeat the test 15 times, to check for fade...)

either way, i would advise speaking to a local auto engineer / certifier , for local registration purposes first.. .

RHD master cylinder. PN 34311102219 fits a right hand drive 2002 and E21. It looks exactly like the PN 34311102812 (for E9, E12, E24) - except for its 2mm smaller bore.

thanks for the reply. I have a rhd csi and am in Melbourne so it's just a matter of changing the master and rerunning the brake lines. using the master for the 2002 and e21. How did you deal with the dual brake lines into the calipers

 

[daicos35]

great to hear you are in melbourne, my hometown!!

dual line into calipers--- i dont know i did the research and parts sourcing, Ian Burrell at IDB Engineering ( now retired), did the hard stuff! assume part of the brake line re plumb.....

 

[daicos35]

So , getting going on the re veneer of the wood trim.

Have gone with an american walnut, along with this "livos" countertop oil.

No stain, 4 coats provides a light sheen. Is heat and water resistant etc.

Used West System epoxy resin to secure the veneer, annd lots of patience / steaming, on the bendy bits!!

 

[daicos35]

Have also purchased a late slide in flange open diff, from a 1980, e24, along with a 3.64 ratio, 188 mm, open diff from a e34 for the crownwheel and pinion.

later sideloader, should be a 10 bolt carrier, and the crownwheel and pinion coming should also be 10 bolt. The e34 diff uses the same bearings etc on the input shaft, so I am hoping it is a bolt in.

Having said that, I do not intent on keeping the open carrier.

My plan is to purchase a drexler lsd. They make a 10 bolt / m12 lsd unit, for late slide in flange sideloaders. (they also make them for 8 bolt m12, and 8 bolt m10, sideloaders).

Drexler are german manufacturers, their diffs have been used by Alpina in the past, and are currently being used in BMW Mcars, and are offered as an option on current Alpinas (at least here in Australia).

Not cheap, but have a vv good reputation down here in Aus, especially for Targa Tasmania (road rally) participants.

I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Markos]

Have also purchased a late slide in flange open diff, from a 1980, e24, along with a 3.64 ratio, 188 mm, open diff from a e34 for the crownwheel and pinion.

later sideloader, should be a 10 bolt carrier, and the crownwheel and pinion coming should also be 10 bolt. The e34 diff uses the same bearings etc on the input shaft, so I am hoping it is a bolt in.

Having said that, I do not intent on keeping the open carrier.

My plan is to purchase a drexler lsd. They make a 10 bolt / m12 lsd unit, for late slide in flange sideloaders. (they also make them for 8 bolt m12, and 8 bolt m10, sideloaders).

Drexler are german manufacturers, their diffs have been used by Alpina in the past, and are currently being used in BMW Mcars, and are offered as an option on current Alpinas (at least here in Australia).

Not cheap, but have a vv good reputation down here in Aus, especially for Targa Tasmania (road rally) participants.

I will let you know how it goes.

@Keshav can speak to the positive reviews of Drexler diffs in a BMW sideloaders. A buddy of his that races CSL’s uses them.

 

[JFENG]

parts acquisition mode for another 18 months

Marcos,
I thought I had a good parts board for an Alpina tribute but you sir are way ahead of me with the ZF CR gearbox and manual steering. Like you I have Stahl headers but they look different than the Alpina headers. My LSD is a 3.07, which combines with the CR Getrag to give a similar final drive as OD 5spd with stock diff. I hope I don’t regret that combination (maybe too tall).
I would not worry about having a B35 vs the 3.3 liter. Your cam, the way you tune it and a man aluminum flywheel will probably have more effect on rev-ability than the long stroke.

 

[Markos]

Marcos,
I thought I had a good parts board for an Alpina tribute but you sir are way ahead of me with the ZF CR gearbox and manual steering. Like you I have Stahl headers but they look different than the Alpina headers. My LSD is a 3.07, which combines with the CR Getrag to give a similar final drive as OD 5spd with stock diff. I hope I don’t regret that combination (maybe too tall).
I would not worry about having a B35 vs the 3.3 liter. Your cam, the way you tune it and a man aluminum flywheel will probably have more effect on rev-ability than the long stroke.

Well I have a lot of parts and a rusty car. We shall see what comes of it.

The carb CSL actually had a 3.45 LSD. I’m not sure if Alpina swapped it out on the B2S or not. I figured that the 3.25 is a better option behind a 200hp+ motor, as did BMW with the CSI/CSL. As you likely know, the 3.07 came behind the m90 motor with CR gearbox. I doubt that you will find it too tall.

Several folks on the forum have an early m90-based 635csi with the 3.07. Check with @vince, @clinton stokes, or @bimbill if you want opinions on the driveline.

 

[daicos35]

Update on my diff.

Have rebuilt my original diff, which is a slide out flange sideloader, 10 bolt, m12, from an early e24.

It uses a fine spline pinion, so has the fine spline drive shaft coupling.

Diff is compatible with the early medium "rearloader" diff crownwheel and pinion, as found in the e28, late e24, and early e34...

I have just installed a 3.64 crownweel and pinion, from a 94 520i, into this late sideloader.

All of those later crownwheel and pinion ratios should work, in the late sideloader.

I addition, the crownwheel, I took out of the late sideloader, was a low drag , 25mm, type, the one from the 520i, just installed, is a regular 30mm one.

Finally, and i will reconfirm once built, but the drexler 10 bolt lsd unit, is made for the late sideloader, also bolt in. I plan on building a whole new diff for road rallying, using a late open sideloader (any ratio), a 3.64 from another e34 520i, and a drexler lsd unit.

All bolt in, no machining, just shims / adjustments.

 

[Markos]

Update on my diff.

Have rebuilt my original diff, which is a slide out flange sideloader, 10 bolt, m12, from an early e24.

It uses a fine spline pinion, so has the fine spline drive shaft coupling.

Diff is compatible with the early medium "rearloader" diff crownwheel and pinion, as found in the e28, late e24, and early e34...

I have just installed a 3.64 crownweel and pinion, from a 94 520i, into this late sideloader.

All of those later crownwheel and pinion ratios should work, in the late sideloader.

I addition, the crownwheel, I took out of the late sideloader, was a low drag , 25mm, type, the one from the 520i, just installed, is a regular 30mm one.

Finally, and i will reconfirm once built, but the drexler 10 bolt lsd unit, is made for the late sideloader, also bolt in. I plan on building a whole new diff for road rallying, using a late open sideloader (any ratio), a 3.64 from another e34 520i, and a drexler lsd unit.

All bolt in, no machining, just shims / adjustments.

This is all fascinating. What I’m getting is that the late sideloader opens many avenues for ratios. The e28 used the 3.25 which is otherwise CSI/CSL hens teeth in the e9 world. In for updates!

@sfdon …