Head replacement
- Thread starter autowerks
- Start date
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
seems more glued than welded 
Time to take the head off;
The Cam gear needs to be taken off and its held by 4 size 10mm bolts.
Once the Cam gear is off the Held is Held by 14 bolts and the head is off!
Last pic shows the crack in the head!
The Cam gear needs to be taken off and its held by 4 size 10mm bolts.
Once the Cam gear is off the Held is Held by 14 bolts and the head is off!
Last pic shows the crack in the head!
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Support the timimg chain with bungee cords to keep the slack from having it fall off the lower sprocket
If you aren’t doing anything to the bottom end and you’ve got it all at TDC, suggest you safety wire the chain to the sprocket so you don’t lose cam to crank timing.
Done that and thank you guys, please keep the comments coming for the next guy doing the head replacement, Thank you
one tip I picked up was to use one of the old head bolts to get the oil/ water out of the blind head bolt holes in the block. Take your bolt and cut a groove in the threaded bit with a grinder, then screw the modified bolt into the blind holes in the block, and any fluid in them is forced up and out via the groove you cut in the bolt threads
Great Idea Drew, will do and Thanks.
Today I am planning to clean the Carbon build up on the pistons and install upgraded oil filter designed by Bert on the forum!
Today I am planning to clean the Carbon build up on the pistons and install upgraded oil filter designed by Bert on the forum!
You guys should have a set of metric thread/hole chasers that are made for this purpose. That plus a long needle tip for your blow gun. $50 gets you a set that covers both metric and coarse/fine SAE
Here's what I have. https://www.tooltopia.com/lang-tools-971.aspx
I have a Snap On set like that, thanks
I cleaned the carbon build up today, it is looking a lot better!
Sorry, but can not load pics don't know why?
Sorry, but can not load pics don't know why?
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How did you stop the carbon going down the bores?
I had terrible trouble with this on my old E24 a few years back. I sorted it in the end but I got gunk in the rings = compression issues
I had terrible trouble with this on my old E24 a few years back. I sorted it in the end but I got gunk in the rings = compression issues
Mine was not that bad it seems to me like the head was recently done on my car, used razor blade and vacuum and shop rag to clean up!
Thanks to sfdon, he shipped the parts on friday, can't wait to drive the car again!
I will be posting the progress and thanks for all the help and guidance.
I will be posting the progress and thanks for all the help and guidance.
All the parts are checked, coolant line and Cam cover plate is installed, also the Oil sending unit!
Guys, not a lot of Mechanical knowledge here but I was able to get the head in place and get the car running ( thanks to the forum, SFDon and you all)
I strongly suggest replacing the tensioner and Cam gear,
make sure the short block and the head are timed ( very important)
Head gasket and head went in and torqued per SFDon specs 20, 30, 50, 68ftp with 30 minutes wait between each torque sequence.
the Cam Gear will go in next easily, the chain is not that hard to work with, cam gear is held in place with four size 10mm bolts.
"The cam shaft turns once when the crank shaft turns twice"
Install the tensioner.
Turn the engine by crank shaft to make sure the timing is correct!
I strongly suggest replacing the tensioner and Cam gear,
make sure the short block and the head are timed ( very important)
Head gasket and head went in and torqued per SFDon specs 20, 30, 50, 68ftp with 30 minutes wait between each torque sequence.
the Cam Gear will go in next easily, the chain is not that hard to work with, cam gear is held in place with four size 10mm bolts.
"The cam shaft turns once when the crank shaft turns twice"
Install the tensioner.
Turn the engine by crank shaft to make sure the timing is correct!
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