help, transistorized ignition, original BOSCH

at last connection instructions

finally i found a drawing that is not considering the need of a special distributor, i found it in a Bosch manual

1- DISTRIBUTOR WITHOUT POINTS: this is the conventional connection of a transistorized system, it considers the special distributor that is used in the CSI cars, the one without points, jean-luc used this one:






2- DISTRIBUTOR WITH POINTS: my case: this is the schematic for using the original distributor from the CS, only need to cut the cable that goes to the capacitor (you can keep it in place, for period correctness, but cut the cable that goes to the positive of the capacitor), you take the signal from the points in the distributor (marked as 1)



in this drawing i am representing a four pole cable because i am going to install this inside the car in a safe place to avoid heat and dust
 
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finding a good place

trying to find a good place for the transistor box,...

below the coil is difficult, AC hoses must use that space, additionally there is a lot of radiation heat from the exhaust



this place looks nice, open, empty, fresh air moving around for heat dissipation



how to make it ? how to install and keep it rain proof




 
a bit of redesign

once checked, i reconsidered the design of this box, to improve assembly and eventual dissasembly, ...e voila !

http://s999.photobucket.com/user/de...chal/IMG_20151002_005531_zpsr8fvajax.jpg.html

upside down



as termal dissipation is an issue i have to optimise heat conduction, and enhance dissipation surface:

http://s999.photobucket.com/user/de...chal/IMG_20151002_005324_zps5jwrc2y3.jpg.html

http://s999.photobucket.com/user/de...chal/IMG_20151002_005425_zps305lj0xc.jpg.html


http://s999.photobucket.com/user/de...chal/IMG_20151002_005407_zpsgwaxgrnm.jpg.html
 
the transistorized way:

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IMG_0960.jpg


in a 700-sport

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IMG_0957.jpg
 
BMW's 700RS, VIN #2, was heavily modified back in the day and should not be considered as original or stock, just in case.
 
finally mounted

finally taken the NOS recently bought at TCE2016:




i have put it in the car wáter box, two rivets and a supporting leg, more than enough

ah, new coat of paint, bicomponent catalised paint in spray can, lovely, painted the heater cover too











still pending assembly of the rest of components, as coil and resistor

 
remove old coil


new one, look at the resistor support made adhoc














using transparent tubes to identify cables in the future





fake condenser is not connected
new points at 0,4mm
 
DeQ a couple questions:

1-why a ballast resistor, isn't the blue Bosch coil internally resisted?
2-the NGK iridium plugs are resisted (they don't make non-resisted irridium plugs), were your previous plugs resisted? I use non-resisted plugs and stock coil wires.

Very cool setup as usual.
 
Stevehose said:
DeQ a couple questions:

1-why a ballast resistor, isn't the blue Bosch coil internally resisted?
2-the NGK iridium plugs are resisted (they don't make non-resisted irridium plugs), were your previous plugs resisted? I use non-resisted plugs and stock coil wires.

Very cool setup as usual.
Click to expand...

dear steve, thank you for your questions/aclaration

1- nice question, the blue coil that i removed form the car was in fact internally resisted, but this blue coil (marked as TRANSISTOR) is specific for transistor and it does need this external ballast resistor, an odd one in fact because it is a 0,4 ohm or 0,4+0,6 ohm dual circuit, for the starter and for the transistor box

take a look to this diagram




2-nice information, as there is very little information on the plugs, i did not realized that they were resisted. my previous plugs were non resisted, and i use stock coil wires too

i recall i have used resisted conventional plugs at least once and i found no remarkable differences, but i will appreciate you opinion on these, should i expect any odd performance due to these resisted plugs ?

is there any change i shuld make on the setup ?
 
I thought that might be a specific coil but didn't see the resistor as part of the kit. Are you going to increase your plug gap to possibly take advantage of the better spark? I just went from .028 to .030 and so far am encouraged by better idle quality.

Here's a discusssion on resistor plugs from the 2002FAQ, I believe the long ceramic (?) plug ends from our wires are resisted so the R plugs would be redundant, if it matters is up to your engine I guess. Some say it does, others say not. Either way my engine loves NGK plugs and my days of hunting German Bosch plugs are over.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/70530-resistor-plugs/#comment-467021
 
Stevehose said:
I thought that might be a specific coil but didn't see the resistor as part of the kit. Are you going to increase your plug gap to possibly take advantage of the better spark? I just went from .028 to .030 and so far am encouraged by better idle quality.

Here's a discusssion on resistor plugs from the 2002FAQ, I believe the long ceramic (?) plug ends from our wires are resisted so the R plugs would be redundant, if it matters is up to your engine I guess. Some say it does, others say not. Either way my engine loves NGK plugs and my days of hunting German Bosch plugs are over.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/70530-resistor-plugs/#comment-467021
Click to expand...

thank you for your responses steve,

i wont touch the plug gap, the iridium point seems too delicate

as to resistor plugs, i have been reading the thread you linked, so far my resistance from distributor to plug ends is 2600 ohms, we will see what happens

regards
 
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