how to deal with the clausor and ignition switch
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
I put this under a magnifying glass this morning and both of these parts (receiver and rod) are heavily worn.
The way forward here is to replace both parts.
Where de we source a new receiver, rod and how do we get it keyed to my car?
The way forward here is to replace both parts.
Where de we source a new receiver, rod and how do we get it keyed to my car?
@deQuincey
I took some better pictures today after removing the shaft. You can see the wear where the shaft seats into the back of the lock.
There's also wear on the head of the shaft too.
This bit has me stumped it fell out when I removed the shaft. It has the same paint on it as the key barrel but looks to have a fracture on the back of it. I'm assuming it's broken off from somewhere as there's nowhere obvious for it to seat?
I'm presently sourcing options to replace the entire mechanism.
I took some better pictures today after removing the shaft. You can see the wear where the shaft seats into the back of the lock.
There's also wear on the head of the shaft too.
This bit has me stumped it fell out when I removed the shaft. It has the same paint on it as the key barrel but looks to have a fracture on the back of it. I'm assuming it's broken off from somewhere as there's nowhere obvious for it to seat?
I'm presently sourcing options to replace the entire mechanism.
Looks like the whole lot needs replacing doesn't it.
This looks like the same shaft as mine though, although from a later model.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ignition-Locking-Cylinder-Lock-Shaft-Repair-for-BMW-3er-E36/153141440576
@deQuincey
Update:
Sourced a replacement lock, which was working when pulled out by the wrecker.
Guess what? Doesn't work in my car
I get lights on the dash etc but nothing when it goes to crank position.
Seems to me the issue is with the lug on the back of the lock that engages the nylon bush on the shaft, which in turn allows the mechanism to rotate the shaft to the crank position.
Looking at some of your earlier pictures here almost looks like there are two versions of 'Type B' where one has a longer lug than the other.
Ideas/Help?
Very frustrating as it's stopping me from getting out on the road..
Update:
Sourced a replacement lock, which was working when pulled out by the wrecker.
Guess what? Doesn't work in my car
I get lights on the dash etc but nothing when it goes to crank position.
Seems to me the issue is with the lug on the back of the lock that engages the nylon bush on the shaft, which in turn allows the mechanism to rotate the shaft to the crank position.
Looking at some of your earlier pictures here almost looks like there are two versions of 'Type B' where one has a longer lug than the other.
Ideas/Help?
Very frustrating as it's stopping me from getting out on the road..
@deQuincey
Update:
Sourced a replacement lock, which was working when pulled out by the wrecker.
Guess what? Doesn't work in my car
I get lights on the dash etc but nothing when it goes to crank position.
Seems to me the issue is with the lug on the back of the lock that engages the nylon bush on the shaft, which in turn allows the mechanism to rotate the shaft to the crank position.
Looking at some of your earlier pictures here almost looks like there are two versions of 'Type B' where one has a longer lug than the other.
Ideas/Help?
Very frustrating as it's stopping me from getting out on the road..
we can not help without your photos, IMHO
@deQuincey
Here you go.
Below you can see the little lug that protrudes from the key tumbler.
It was previously broken and I thought this was the issue so had it replaced.
The lug engages the nylon bush on the shaft, see below.
Here is a pic of how they engage.
Something still isn't right though. I notice that when it's all put together and I rotate the key it doesn't engage the steering lock. This tells me perhaps there is something broken inside the key tumbler too?
What am I missing here?
Perhaps the issue is with the electrical switch that goes in the back of the barrel?
Here you go.
Below you can see the little lug that protrudes from the key tumbler.
It was previously broken and I thought this was the issue so had it replaced.
The lug engages the nylon bush on the shaft, see below.
Here is a pic of how they engage.
Something still isn't right though. I notice that when it's all put together and I rotate the key it doesn't engage the steering lock. This tells me perhaps there is something broken inside the key tumbler too?
What am I missing here?
Perhaps the issue is with the electrical switch that goes in the back of the barrel?
There is an excellent lock Smith in california. He had made my pebra high security keys by code #.
The codes are on the key cylinders on doors..trunk..and ignition. I'll get his info and post it.
Also removing cylinder in mine I did turn steering wheel a little to free the key and cylinder...
Heres the locksmith in Santa Monica....
Ask for Mike...hell probably answer anyways.
https://www.santamonicalockandsafe.com
Ask for Mike...hell probably answer anyways.
https://www.santamonicalockandsafe.com
When you say replacement lock take it you mean only the key lock cylinder (not including the steering wheel lock portion).
Your intermediate shaft shows enough wear that even a new lock cyl might not be able to transfer enough rotational travel to the electrical switch to activate the last "crank" position. I'd be very pleasantly surprised if that e36 (?) part would work - ask seller? Could just be the ebay picture but a nice sharp corner is what the original would have. Other picture shows one with some wear but still working.
Isn't there a small roll pin from the side to keep that intermediate piece in position? If there is, when reinstalling shaft have to twist it so flat cutout clears pin while pushing then turn to final position so it is behind pin.
Your intermediate shaft shows enough wear that even a new lock cyl might not be able to transfer enough rotational travel to the electrical switch to activate the last "crank" position. I'd be very pleasantly surprised if that e36 (?) part would work - ask seller? Could just be the ebay picture but a nice sharp corner is what the original would have. Other picture shows one with some wear but still working.
Isn't there a small roll pin from the side to keep that intermediate piece in position? If there is, when reinstalling shaft have to twist it so flat cutout clears pin while pushing then turn to final position so it is behind pin.
@2000CS ,
Just a hint;
I think @Wes has solved his issue by now, as his last post in this thread was from 2019....
Also, and especially when posting in a thread that is older, the (your) answer will likely go unnoticed to the person asking the question. For that reason you can tag someone; type an @ and then the first few letters of his alias, and you'll see a list of members pop up , tick the one you're addressing. It'll look like this : @eriknetherlands .
Like I did for you as well, and that why you had a notification in the top bar on the website with a red '1' next to the "Bell" Icon.
Happy couping!
Just a hint;
I think @Wes has solved his issue by now, as his last post in this thread was from 2019....
Also, and especially when posting in a thread that is older, the (your) answer will likely go unnoticed to the person asking the question. For that reason you can tag someone; type an @ and then the first few letters of his alias, and you'll see a list of members pop up , tick the one you're addressing. It'll look like this : @eriknetherlands .
Like I did for you as well, and that why you had a notification in the top bar on the website with a red '1' next to the "Bell" Icon.
Happy couping!
I did solve it, 3 E9s ago
@sfdon helped me out. You need to replace the barrel components - think we used an e24 - and then also the electrical switch that mounts to the back of the key barrel. The interface between the two sections gets worn down. You will be able to rotate the key but nothing happens at the 'crank' position as the two mating surfaces slip.