I just couldn't stop myself opening Pandora's Box!

Belgiumbarry said:
sorry to be perhaps pessimist , but i can see those lokari's keep dirt and mud outside but sure no water .... those rubber edges will never be watertight. Can it dry every time inside ? or do those keep it just wet for a much longer time ?
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The lokaris are actually spaced at quite a distance from the sheet metal, on average 5 cm or more from it, so air has enough place to circulate. It will dry up nicely behind there every time.
Biggest benefit is that it is just water that enters. As no sand or stones accumulate, it doesn't retain water like a sponge. There's no mud forming.
 
Agree with Erik. Plenty of air circulation thru the well spaced openings for all the water spray as well. And needless to say, only a fraction of the water will be constantly sprayed directly into the wheel well.

Barry, as far as your pessimism goes, I’ve Never heard anyone ever say they are not a good and helpful addition in all the 25 years and more that they are being used.
 
Belgiumbarry said:
apart from the non OEM vertical plate , is Dan's car missing the one in the corner ? or is this welded in a wrong place here in the pic ?
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It is great to see the fenders come off. I am as surprised as you, Dan, to see all of that gravel in there. Weird and wild stuff. I am curious to hear some of the more seasoned members here speak to the gusset plates that Barry asked about. With some skepticism, I often wonder just how identical these (or any) cars truly are. Even though these aren't "hand made" like some used to be, there was still a fair amount human intervention. Steps that were made later in the day, or by a different team, will inherently have a little bit of variation. Anyway, great to see you handling this "in house"!
 
OK , i see there are many supporters here for Lokari's :D

I sure can't use them as part driven is offroad...i should demount them every time i'm afraid.
Now , just to argue @Keshav , wet is wet ... it doesn't matter how much water is sprayed during the trip.
I just wonder how long it takes to dry out once in the garage compared to non protection...
 
eriknetherlands said:
Hi, indeed. Lokaris are THE answer to the mud and stone problem, but they can be improved.
Another modification is the attachment to the fender; it uses a bracket on the back side (supposedly dry side) of the lokari. However they just advise to thread a metal screw through the fender. I vomit. I plan to work out if i cannot use the two M10 bolts that hold the bumper mounts to the frame rails. They seem to be in an ideal location for that.

I have been planning to make the lokaris's myself,.....
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I also plan to make some pseudo Lokaris since I have some sheets of aluminum and a bead roller. I'd planned on adding some appropriate fastening points or brackets to the fender well since I'll be welding on my car anyway. I didn't realize that the fender liners are spaced off of the body by a significant amount, but that makes sense. Once I get in there with a little CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) all will become clear.

Dan, nice photos of this problem point. Good to see what lies beneath. I'll be taking this journey as well soon enough.
 
... I'm a bit surprised no one hasn't commented on the state of the art rotisserie in the background, or what is cradled within it :)

Dan... that radiator is a work of art.

Fender liners from Lokari will have to be special ordered for my 2000CS, but methinks it will be worth it...

Ed
 
I think any serious restoration should have the both the fenders off and the rockers off to see what's up there. Maybe also cut a rectangle piece out of the rear quarter near the rocker also. If nothing there, fine, weld that piece back there, but if there's something there (like 95% of E9s, like Scottevest's car), then get it now before the re-paint!
 
The Lokari’s are so good that when I ordered a set of two (for Stan and me), Mario installed Stan’s and the installed mine on Andrews car! Well, I’m pretty sure it was Andrews car, but the point is they work great and are essential for all but garage queens and racer cars. I too would not use a sheet metal screw to attach. I’d do welded on studs or stainless nutserts or something else. And make sure any new holes are properly rust-proofed .
 
zinz said:
We have a winner!

Here's more about that restoration... http://classicjaguar.com/cj/fmc.html
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The Pantera makes my CSi look pristine. That thing is REALLY rusty:eek:

To make matters worse, there are very few new body panels available for the Pantera so you end up having to fabricate a lot of stuff. At least with the BMW you can buy everything you need from my new friends at W&N :D
 
teahead said:
I think any serious restoration should have the both the fenders off and the rockers off to see what's up there. Maybe also cut a rectangle piece out of the rear quarter near the rocker also. If nothing there, fine, weld that piece back there, but if there's something there (like 95% of E9s, like Scottevest's car), then get it now before the re-paint!
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I think you are absolutely correct, Rob. In fact, my car is a great example of how well an E9 hides its rust issues behind apparently attractive bodywork. :mad:
 
For those who have shipped Lokaris to USA, is the price of shipping 67 Euro (ouch) or 16.81 Euro? The 2 options are not explained. Thanks
 
i have a lokari installation question - if you have rolled fender lips will they still go in, or do you need the lips to capture the edge?
 
rsporsche said:
i have a lokari installation question - if you have rolled fender lips will they still go in, or do you need the lips to capture the edge?
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No problems with rolled fender arches Scott. They sit deeper in the wheel well.
The pic of Chriostophs‘ Lorkaris‘ make the fit with rolled arches questionable, but in fact it’s not.
 
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teahead said:
I think any serious restoration should have the both the fenders off and the rockers off to see what's up there. Maybe also cut a rectangle piece out of the rear quarter near the rocker also. If nothing there, fine, weld that piece back there, but if there's something there (like 95% of E9s, like Scottevest's car), then get it now before the re-paint!
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Mind you that you can access the same rear inner rocker without cutting and welding. Just unbolt the rear interior side panel and slide a goose neck camera inside. Saves the grinding and welding, costs are about the same, and in the end you have yourself a cool tool, and a clean garage/shop. Second place to look is under the rear seat, under the reinforcements that hold the rear axle pins. Third is just next to it, down into the furthest corner of the floor to sill to wheel well, just behind the seat belt bolt mounting plate.
 
You can also likely get a camera in the front section after you remove the mud guards. There are also holes in the inner rocker at the mid-point once you remove the carpet.

Ed
 
zinz said:
You can also likely get a camera in the front section after you remove the mud guards. There are also holes in the inner rocker at the mid-point once you remove the carpet.

Ed
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Indeed there are several holes along the inner rocker. Good for inspection!
 
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