Inline electric fuel pump, what’s the best option?

vanbavaria

vanbavaria

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So the Bav broke down yesterday on a nice Sunday drive. Found I was having a fuel delivery problem. After sucking on the fuel line and getting a couple mouth fulls of gasoline i managed to get gas back up to the mechanical fuel pump (replaced last year) to prime it. Got it going to get home at least but i don’t want to deal with that again.

It seams to be having a problem after a good drive then parking for awhile I start back up and it starts stuttering and becomes starved for fuel.

I feel I should just delete the mechanical fuel pump and replace with a inline electric pump with a couple check valves on the fuel line to prevent drain back to the tank to alleviate this problem once and for all.

Any recommendations for a a proper good quality electric inline pump?
 
The main thing is matching the low pump pressures. Not sure if they make low pressure pumps with valves to stop reverse flow like the high pressure fuel injected ones. I have a one way valve in the fuel line after the filter anyway to help with starts.
 
If the pump isn’t drawing fuel the hoses have leaks you can’t see and is letting air into the system. A one way valve helps but that is needed for a Weber in my experience as the fuel bowls evaporate more quickly. I find the Zeniths start easily even after two weeks. If you go electric get a Pierburg electric pump, they are cylindrical and fit next to the tank and are pretty quiet, the Carter not so much.
 
Not to hijack the thread (OK, I already have :() but has anyone used an electric pump just for priming...pre start after a 2 week + sit? These Webers do seem to have an evaporation problem if they aren't in use regularly.

The pump would have to be one that is rated to flow though since it would only use it for priming.
 
I use the VDO lift pump from any of the dual pump FI systems. It supplies about 3# of pressure and mounts directly in the tank. For my E3 I use a E28 mounting bracket with the six mounting screws with the accompanying sender. I've had this system in my car for many years and it works very well.
 
I'm using a Pierburg EF1 pump, model number 7.21440.51.0. I use a revolution electronics fuel pump controller, which pumps 3 seconds of fuel into the carbs to fill the bowls when you energize the pump (triple Weber lose fuel pretty quickly too). It also has a safety cut off to stop fuel flow if the engine is not running. The pump controller is pretty simple; comparable to installing a relay into a circuit that did not have one.
 

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bavbob said:
Can you use the sender from it also?
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You need to use the sender as well because it plugs up a big hole in the pump mount. I wired it into my stock gas gauge and it works reasonably well. Not very linear, but it has the low fuel warning meant for the injected cars. This gives you a little extra cushion when you're running low.
I've been using these pumps for 10 years and they've done an excellent job. No fuel starvation problems, and they're easy to change if it fails. I had a pump failure a few years ago and it took me about 20 minutes to install my spare. As you can see from my pic on #12 the spare is ready to plug in.
 
HB Chris said:
If the pump isn’t drawing fuel the hoses have leaks you can’t see
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And one of those leak points is the fuel sender outlet tube sleeve. PM me and I'll send you one to fix that issue. Here's an installation sheet I created for the 2002s but the process is the same.
 

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I assumed you had to use the sender component but wondered about accuracy. I trust you have seen the OEM prices of these of late. I have not priced the pumps alone without the sender.
 
bavbob said:
I assumed you had to use the sender component but wondered about accuracy. I trust you have seen the OEM prices of these of late. I have not priced the pumps alone without the sender.
Click to expand...

I collect senders and pumps from E28's in my local junkyards. Surprisingly inexpensive. The accuracy doesn't really concern me. When the gauge reads 1/4 tank I stop and gas up.
 
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