Lan-Engine M30B30 tuning thread, steps, values, specs, and so on

[deQuincey]

so the light, yes the light

i saw a yellow light at the end of the tunnel...

 

[deQuincey]

... after all this inmense job, (it started september the 20th), just last week i was finally able to put her on the ground with clean tyres

i was expecting to check the engine start on the first day of 2021

but,...nothing

at the beginning it was quite normal to expect some time to fill the filters bowl, and the carburetor reservoirs, but that point was far passed and indeed no sign of spark, combustion, or explosion of any kind

what was happening ?

we had fuel, plenty of it, so electricity and more specifically ignition came to my mind as the possible culprit

 

[deQuincey]

but i am very meticulous, true is that i removed the distributor to clean it, but i was very careful to remove and put it back again,...








if you look closely here you can witness the mistake, but it is not so obvious, as the alignment has to be made between two parts separated 40mm in height

 

[deQuincey]

i started checking the details for a bad connection, an incorrect value,...all in vain,



but when i placed the OT mark in its place....









i found that it was quite a surprise ....



the rotor was not perfectly centered, it was off probably less than 5mm,...

but is this relevant, at all ?

 

[deQuincey]

the thing is that there was no explosion at all, not even one, or half one

too big the fail for such a little error...

 

[Stevehose]

I don't believe that is causing your problem, have you pulled a plug wire or 2 and checked for spark?

 

[deQuincey]

I don't believe that is causing your problem, have you pulled a plug wire or 2 and checked for spark?

i couldnt believe it either, but, look....

 

[HB Chris]

Looks like a rev limiting rotor

 

[deQuincey]

so i took the haynes advise as how to set static timing by means of a test lamp



and prepared my setup using a 12volt test lamp



it worked very well

set your engine at OT as previous pictures shown, slacken the clamp bolt so you can rotate the dizzy, first you turn the dizzy clockwise far enough so you are sure that points are closed, then you switch the ignition on and then very slowly turn the dizzy anti-clockwise until light is on, and there fix the clamp bolt

you get a couple of extra checks using this trick, first is you have light so you are sure that there is electricity going on there, second, you will hear a loud click as the HT lead produces an arc, that means that your coil is working



you can see that this job meant that i just turned the dizzy body clockwise an equivalent to those 5mm, which meant effectively putting the mark in the middle



put everything in its place again, and then the engine started like a champ

amazing, problem solved

 

[deQuincey]

my recap,

it seem to me that when i fitted the dizzy back in its place i was too much influenced by the position of the body according to the alignment marks that i always do during stroboscopic timing procedure

but as you know the rotor turns freely while you are introducing the dizzy back in its place, this is why you should pre-set it 35mm before the mark

the whole operation is a bit complex as you are introducing the dizzy rod into a very tight cylinder with a rubber seal on it, so errors can occur

my guess is that even being very careful i slipped just one helicoidal tooth of the gear and this produced the slight misalignment, which was finally corrected by rotating the dizzy body during the static ignition setting procedure

moreover the check that you have to perform to see that the mark on dizzy body is aligned with the centre of the rotor plate is tricky, as both elements are separated in height around 40mm making very difficult to make a proper alignment that will always be influenced by your viewing angle

....your thoughts ?

thank you

 

[deQuincey]

some pics from manual.

here is the removing and refitting procedure

 

[deQuincey]

finishing this with ignition and synchro:

photos afre self explaining, copied it from our local forum.



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dwell 34,8 grados,

reajusto el delco con 1700rpms y strobo a bola (22 BTDC)



- 1/4 de vuelta




a 1700 rpms


18kg/h de aire




y el CO en 2,7%


a 980 rpms



un poco menos de 12 kg/h



y 3,1 a 3,2 % de CO (valor correcto entre 3 y 4%)



la instalacion incluye una cartulina para evitar que el carbu delantero se vea afectado por el ventilador

 

[deQuincey]

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