Mr. Johnson's 1970 2800 CS - Update 09/28/2025

Remember me? It's been 19 months since my last confession.

People say that if you do what you love, you'll never work a day in your life. Those people are wrong and I think they are actually lying.

I initially had the car towed from my house to my shop in the beginning of January, 2023. My plan was to essentially clean everything and swap the engines. Then scope creep set in and next thing you know, my only revenue in January was replacing a brake light switch on a customer's car in his garage. To add insult to injury, I had to warranty that part in November, so not a great month! I had customers looking to get their cars in and I felt quite guilty having this project taking up my workspace, so I had to make that happen.

Anyway, lets start where I left off. February 1, I got all of the aluminum parts together from the original engine and a few of the pieces from the replacement engine that were easy to grab. I wasn't going to do a whole refresh on the new motor because it was a running engine and its main purpose is to make this a functional vehicle. I had made contact with a guy that does vapor blasting and he's about a mile and a half from my shop, so doesn't get much better than that. I dropped all of this off plus more. Interestingly, both engines had replacement heads and the timing covers measured identically but the date codes inside made it pretty simple to figure out which is which.

IMG_3648.jpeg


While that stuff was away, I looked at some other things that might make me happy and I decided to see how the rear bumper, tail lights and the license plate trim would clean up. The latter is the early chromed brass part, so something I was looking forward to seeing. Not bad for a first pass.

IMG_3663.jpeg


I primed and painted the brake booster. I thought using my floor jack handle was a relatively elegant solution and the paint laid down quite nicely. I was able to save the original, worn sticker. Matches all the other decals under the hood.
IMG_3687.jpeg
IMG_3690.jpeg


February 10th, I picked up all of my freshly cleaned aluminum bits and had an interesting discovery about my original valve cover. I think it also answers a question or two about what might have happened to the original engine.

IMG_3743.jpeg
IMG_3742.jpeg


I'd like to find another with the small roundel like this but this one has some character and I'm amazed it was never swapped out so I'm not upset about it!

One of the things I had been doing while the car has been in the shop is conditioning the leather. When I removed the right rear seat, I found these markings and thought they were worth sharing.

IMG_3761.jpeg


I was working on getting a load of hardware to be plated, but some bolts are supposed to be black-oxide (brake caliper bolts, steering knuckle bolts, etc). I have a great shop nearby that does only this and I used them on my E12 project. The best part is that they'll do a very small batch of bolts and charge very reasonable money to do it. The plater I've been using has $150 batch minimums and it can go up for rack plating, so it's a welcome change. I had ordered the hardware kits that Walloth and Nesch sell and while to the chagrin of some, I swapped in my painted tension strut washers, I had most everything I needed for the subframe, thought that kit does not include the bolts to mount the steering box. I find that odd. It was during the process of sourcing those bolts that I discovered that most everything I sourced for the car is in fact wrong. Just like when I had the subframe powder coated the wrong color, we now have this situation where I had a few bolts refinished in black oxide and I now have more.

IMG_3767-1.jpeg


The four subframe bolts, the three steering box bolts, the two control arm bolts, brake caliper bolts, steering arm bolts, the idler arm bolt and the bolts for the anti-roll bar brackets are in fact black oxide on this car (and I have confirmed this with photos of 227236). Yay.

And then moving on to more plating discoveries. All of this is from my original power steering pump and the banjo bolts for the box as well as the spacers and washers for the control arms. Everything here is clear zinc. I have to really think about some stuff now.

IMG_3768.jpeg
IMG_3769.jpeg
 
February 15, it got to the point I had to take the car off the lift. I had created a much bigger project than anticipated. That is not a bad thing. My entire goal for this project has been to maintain as much of an original car as I can but there are things that just have to be addressed. I also want to do a proper job and while I was disappointed I had to put the project aside, I hoped that in the meantime I could keep bits and pieces moving and find a window to get back into it. It didn't help that I have two very intense E28 projects for customers. Fortunately at this point, leaving the struts as a unit, the old rotors on the hubs and having all of the subframe parts back meant that I could install those parts and put the car on dollies. Sure, I'll use all the wrong hardware, but I'm not torquing anything yet, it just needs to have wheels on to sit on dollies.

IMG_3773.jpeg
IMG_3775.jpeg
IMG_3776.jpeg
IMG_3777.jpeg
IMG_3802.jpeg

Don't worry, those are just empty boxes and bubble wrap on the trunk of the green E28.

After a while, I swapped the green E28 and the coupe and put it under a couple of sheets as well next to the wall and I didn't touch the car itself for about 18.5 months.

Occasionally, friends would come through town and they'd stop in to see what ridiculous projects I had in the shop and oftentimes, discussion would turn to why isn't that motor in that car yet and I would have a bunch of answers and that was never good enough. One friend took it upon himself to say we are going to put this engine on this stand (I had just swapped an S52 into an E34 touring, so the stand was empty) and we ended up doing that August 3, 2023. Stripped the accessories off and wheeled it outside and cleaned it up.

IMG_5904.jpeg


The upper timing cover is from another engine and it's broken since that engine suffered a camshaft failure. Just needed to make this water tight!

Unfortunately, progress on this was halted after discovering someone broke two water pump bolts off and just left them, so we spent the rest of the day drilling those out and re-tapping the holes. They came out great, but that was the extent of the work on this engine for the foreseeable future.

Too much going on, back to the back burner again.
 
Fast forward to the beginning of August, 2024. A couple friends come by pretty regularly and we will grab dinner or something. Quite often the conversation shifts to the E9 and when is something going to happen, etc. With customer projects that aren't progressing, it is ridiculous to put a bunch of time into my own car, particularly when several of my other cars have needs (one more severe than the rest), but at the same time, I keep getting these somewhat wacky projects from good customers and they need to be done as well. I had the summer of cars that won't leave and a very small shop. For the last year, that Hartge E28 that was photobombing a previous post has been at a body shop getting a complete repaint (it is literally a shell on dollies) and it's looking like it's coming back to the shop. I have had the coupe here for 20 months (that sounds just as annoying as the parents that refer to their children by how many months old they are) and it's going to have to go back home. One night, I explained this to my friends and they said why not put the motor in it?

How hard could it be?

Last week, I had the green E28 on the lift since it's the car I've been trying to make a big push on. I got a few things knocked out on it and we decided, it would come off the lift and then we'd put the E9 up there. Well, not everything goes according to plan and one friend's clutch hydraulics failed at the shop, so his car went on the lift instead. Got that knocked out Friday, we went to dinner and when we came back, we spun the coupe around got it loaded on the lift.
IMG_1264.jpeg


Long time no see. Interesting to see it again and see what a nice car it is. I put it up in the air the next morning and we got to work on the engine. Intake and exhaust manifolds off.

IMG_1266.jpeg
IMG_1269.jpeg

Cleaned up the sides of the block, wire brush, etc and masked the timing cover, head and oil pan and then primed and painted it. Somehow no photos of that, but I assure you it's painted. At this point, time to swap on the nice parts. While the oil pan was off, I removed the plug for the pressure relief piston and it was stuck. Ended up removing the oil pump and freeing the stuck piston. Fortunately the bore was nice as was the piston, I think it was just stuck from not moving for so long. Of course, you can't go anywhere with this motor and not have a broken bolt and had to extract an oil pan bolt. Fortunately, penetrant and a torch with which to ignite that penetrant allowed me to grab the small nub with a giant pair of vise grips and for the first time successfully remove a broken bolt without a drill. Oh what a feeling. Chased the threads, put the spooge on the seams (also replaced the rear main and the rear main carrier and gasket) and went to install the oil pan. Next issue!

Turns out that the oil pan from the 3.0 installed in the car is late enough to have the baffle, while the new engine being made in late 1970 has the early oil pump and therefore early pickup and the pan has no baffle. The newer pan almost fit.
IMG_1270.jpeg


Oops. Well, off with the pan and off with the oil pump again. I found the box of parts I took off the installed motor and found the pump which had an '82 casting date on it and a very freely moving piston. I made sure it was clean and installed it. Had to do a little bit of engineering as I didn't want to remove the main cap bolts to change the bracket, so using spacers installed with the nuts on the original pump, we made it work. Oil pan fit this time.
IMG_1271.jpeg


It was around this time I began feeling like this was going to be a pretty temporary engine.

With the pan on, we spun the engine back around and did all the topside stuff. I got screwed by one gasket. Early heads have a different water neck gasket than late heads and I of course am well stocked on the late one. I checked the box of gaskets for the early one and while I have a file folder for it, no dice. Ended up putting some Permatex aviation gasket maker on both surfaces but I wasn't super comfortable with this given the access situation. Oh well, I moved on. New upper timing cover gaskets, pulled the plugs, primed the tensioner (after cleaning it out, new sealing ring and teflon tape on the threads). Time for the valve adjustment. Not sure when it was last done but every valve save for two was tight. Everything looks okay wear wise. At least the top of the motor looks better than the bottom.
IMG_1276.jpeg


Sunday morning, it's time to put the engine in the car, so we turn our attention back to the car. It's firewall insulation time. The left piece around the pedal bracket was still there, so I opted to leave that. Of course the lower right is not available, so I bought the set from Oils Design Group and decided to cut the bottom and make it a 3 piece set again. I had also ordered the hideously expensive factory upper piece, but Walloth and Nesch's price was better than my wholesale price so I got it from them. First step was reinstalling the brake lines for the right front. I was going to have these remade, but the originals are fine if a bit patinaed. Once they were installed, I made my cuts to the lower piece and fit it up, then had to do a bit of trimming as I am assuming my early car has differences with where the tabs are that hold the brake lines. The genuine piece seems to have those same issues. Also, the holes in the firewall for the AC lines and also for the washer hose were incompatible with the insulation, so I did what I could to gracefully solve all of these issues. I then masked, sprayed the adhesive and installed and I feel it fit quite well. The upper piece is a complete disaster and if you do try to make adjustments, the foam backing just comes apart, so it's stuck where it is. All of the holes line up except for the drain tubes. They're pretty damn big so I guess it really is six of one, half a dozen of the other.

IMG_1279-1.jpeg


I also felt 19 months was enough time to wax the engine bay paint so I did that too.

At this point, It was time to button up the motor and install one last thing to lift the motor off the stand and onto the subframe. The front lifting bracket. The M8x65mm bolt went in no problem, but the M6x65 wouldn't go in. Of course the last bolt I have to install on the front of the engine is broken off in the block. The sad thing was I had just chased a ton of threads and made a comment about how when you have the tap and die set out, it's usually a bad thing. Oops.

This was my view for an hour or so.

IMG_1281-1.jpeg


The depth of the hole caused all sorts of issues. I center punched the bolt remnant but after a while, I couldn't tell what I was drilling, so I decided we needed to just put the motor on the subframe and I'll work on it from there. We pulled the crank nut (which had no washer) and I figured hey at least I can change this lower timing cover with a fresh one. I didn't have one blasted. The other one was still on the old motor.

IMG_1282-3.jpeg

Pulled the lower timing cover off and the water pump. I had decided I'm going to try to install a helicoil, but I didn't have any M6x1.0. I ordered a set off of Amazon which said overnight delivery, but I awoke to "Arriving by 10pm." It's Tuesday, so I went to my favorite store, McFadden-Dale Industrial Hardware and bought a kit along with a fresh Norseman 1/4" drill bit.

My fear though, was given that the hole isn't quite round anymore, where is the center of this and once I drill it, tap it and put the coil in, will it line up with the hole in the timing cover. I got the idea to use the lifting bracket, but it couldn't work with the head installed and while I have a few of them, I didn't want to cut one up, so I used a timing cover and very gingerly cut the material and it sliced right through it.

IMG_1284-2.jpeg



IMG_1288-2.jpeg
IMG_1289-1.jpeg


The insert went in without issue. Bracket can now be installed. But first, we have to do the crank seal, timing cover gaskets and then replace all the new gaskets that had to be removed to fix this.

IMG_1291.jpeg

IMG_1292-1 2.jpeg


Yay. All buttoned back up. Brackets installed. So, why is that water pump on there? Well, it seems people haven't been having much fun with the screw on fan clutches and I have a couple of good bolt-on fan clutches. I bought this pump in 2014 for my Golf 530i but ended up going with a screw on setup for it. Figured for this car, why not and I can always change it. It's a Saleri, and from the era when they actually made good pumps. We will see, I guess.

Also, what's with this nifty hydraulic lifting cart? Well, I'd have used the setup I used to remove the engine, but it has the Hartge's front subframe and engine on it, so that's not very useful. I bought this from a friend and figured I'd appreciate the extra adjustability of it and it's my first time using it. At least I could put the engine at whatever level I wanted to work on it, so that was nice.

Something else I discovered, is that every bolt or nut that came off of this motor is also black oxide, so all of these zinc plated bolts are also wrong. So exciting. Might also explain why so many of them have broken and why they made the change to yellow zinc.
 
Now with this, we are ready to attach the transmission to the engine. Of course, first the flywheel, clutch, etc. I elected to use the clutch that was on the engine and as such I left the flywheel alone. It and the pressure plate cleaned up quite nicely. I did change the pilot bearing. It was a sealed bearing so all things point to this clutch not being that old. New flywheel bolts. New pivot pin, new clutch fork and new release bearing. I went back and forth on what transmission to use and decided to just stick with the G265 that was in the car. Installed the bell housing, then installed the transmission.
IMG_1293.jpeg


I decided I wanted a few more gears.

IMG_1295.jpeg


Interestingly, the balance of this assembly on the cart is not as stable as it was on the wooden setup I used previously. The entire transmission including bell-housing was hanging off of that and it was rock solid. For some reason, this was much less stable. Either way, time to give this a shot.

IMG_1296-2.jpeg


It took quite a bit of adjusting. Also, we had to move the wood around quite a bit, but we got it in.

IMG_1297-2.jpeg
IMG_1298.jpeg


Steering box on the subframe was dumb. Too difficult to get everything lined up. I ended up folding the u-joint down and decided I'll deal with it later. I did that this morning. I removed the box, removed the u-joint from the box, cleaned the splines on all four things, added some grease, spread the joints and slipped the u-joint on the shaft as far as it would go, then installed the box. That went pretty well. Removing the bolt for the left control arm allows the box to come out without touching anything.

I also torqued the crank nut to 325 ft lbs and put loctite 271 on it. I robbed the nut and washer from the old motor since the nut sucked on this one and there was no washer. I have to say it's awesome having access to this torque wrench, but putting 325 ft lbs through this assembly with the hood on is a bit nerve-wracking. Everything survived, so yay.

IMG_1304-1 2.jpeg


I will say it's pretty amazing to see the engine in the car. I decided that I'm going to leave the intake alone and just install it as-is with the Webers. It's clean but doesn't look brand new. That's fine. I guess I can use an M30B35 starter. I have no problem using the old one, but I do have some B35 ones. I just need to figure out all the wiring. I'm going to use an E12 positive battery cable since I have a new one so that should work well. Still plenty to do. I'll do shifter, driveshaft and exhaust. I used my brake rotors, pads and wheel bearings on a customers car so need to order those again.

More to come...
 
Happy 3 year anniversary for this thread! I haven't updated it in more than a year and I apologize, especially since I was in the middle of making such great progress. I had a reason, but am not sure what it was. Maybe I just wanted it to drop to page 10. Either way, it was suggested that I update my thread, so I got right on that, about a month after being asked. I put a lot of thought into picking up where I left off, coincidentally, on this, the three-year anniversary of my thread.

So, at this point, engine and transmission are in the car. I installed the shifter, driveshaft and the exhaust. Apparently I did not need to take photos of this.

I had a bunch of stuff plated so I can do all the accessories and the linkages, etc. I used a different plater than I have in the past. This one was recommended by the shop that does my black oxide stuff. They had been talking about starting their own zinc line and I was really hoping for that but ultimately decided not to. Anyway, I dropped all the stuff off there once I figured out how to get inside the building (it's an old post office, has no signage - quite odd). So, everything I dropped off was clean and free of rust, etc and the guy calls me and says hey man I have to blast all these parts and I said,"Oh God please no. Please. I don't want that dull-looking plating." To which he replies this is necessary and it will look really shiny and won't be dull when done. Of course, he couldn't tell me what this would cost me. Wonderful.

Anyway, waiting for the plating, on to the brakes. I didn't do anything with the suspension. I decided to leave it alone to see what its like and then decide what to do from there once I hopefully get to experience it. I had the backing plates powder-coated. I replaced the wheel bearings. I was smart and ordered the seals separately since the seals that come in the SKF kit are completely wrong. Installed the kit from Walloth and Nesch with new calipers, pads, rotors, etc. I bought new brake hoses and instead of going the usual route for me with the braided ones, I decided to go with the stock ones. Everything went together well.

IMG_1407.JPG
IMG_1409.JPG


Onto the rear brakes. I love drums. Even though these look perfectly fine and serviceable, I did new wheel cylinders, shoes and drums. Brake hoses, too.
IMG_1408.JPG

IMG_1410.JPG
IMG_1411.JPG


Always good to have the right information! You'll note the old shoes were backwards.
IMG_1412.jpg

I was struggling with adjusting the shoes and testing with the handbrake. Finally I decided to stop the insanity and go digging for idiocy. Found it!
IMG_1415.JPG


Ok finally solved that issue. Painted the drums and boom!

IMG_1416.JPG


I still have to install the rest of the brake components (booster, master cylinder, etc). Waiting on the plating.

I got the plating back. It was quite expensive. The packaging was quite good though. That said, the plating was exactly what I didn't want. :(

IMG_1379.JPG
IMG_1381.JPG
IMG_1380.JPG


I think this, combined with another future issue (foreshadowing) might have taken away some of my interest in updating the thread. Anyway, had I been updating the thread in real time, I'd have been quite upset and disappointed about how this stuff came out, but in retrospect, it actually works for my goal of some level preservation - not looking restored, but more foreshadowing, I have no idea what that actually is anymore.

So, time to do some things with the plating. I put the voltage regulator back together. I spent three hours looking for a piece of tape I bought from Luis A. in 2015. Couldn't find it anywhere. I decided I didn't want to wait anymore, so I used some masking tape (it's still on the car). I was so proud of myself for this. I really don't know why.

IMG_1418.JPG


I had some help and I was still figuring out some things with the engine and accessories, etc, so figured now was as good a time as any to put the front bumper back on the car.

IMG_1421.JPG
IMG_1422.JPG


I feel like at this point even with no lights or grilles, it seems to be more complete. The bumper really came up nicely. I think that's a pretty good spot to leave this for now. I'll continue the old news updates soon!
 
I guess I'll keep going.

I worked on putting the accessories together. I had the alternator rebuilt, I put the power steering pump together with all the newly plated pieces. I installed the things that mount to the inner fender, like the power steering canister, etc. I installed the brake booster and the clutch hydraulics. Bled everything without issue. Lots of stuff coming together. I had an M30B35 starter that had an early solenoid on it so I had no wiring changes for the starter. Way cool. High-five! I decided to change the oil filter head to the E28 one as I had recently changed the oil on a customer's E3 and hated life.

One of the areas I was struggling with was with the pulleys and belts. I had a water pump I bought years ago for my E12 530i for a bolt-on fan clutch and was hell-bent on using it because I was concerned about fan clearance to the radiator. But at the same time, I didn't want to use the stock balancer and belt arrangement despite having everything refinished. I just didn't like it and am a bigger fan of the later style balancer and pulley arrangement. Also, thinking for a future with AC, I like this better. BUT PROBLEM! If I use the original water pump pulley, which is required for the bolt-on fan clutch as the bolt pattern for the pulley is different, There's really no belt size that I can make work with the later balancer. I decided to give up and go with the screw-on fan clutch. I came up with this. This is all just a mock-up as I needed to change hardware on the balancer.

IMG_1444.JPG


When I bought the motor, it came with an aluminum radiator. I was going to have my original radiator gone through but in the interest of making this car run, I decided to go for the fresh aluminum one.

IMG_1445.JPG


I was concerned about clearance (how crazy) and put a used crappy black fan on to see. Apparently I was okay with this at the time?

IMG_1447.JPG

IMG_1446.JPG


Neat. I cleaned up inside the trunk for the fuel tank.
IMG_1453.JPG


Then I bought the world's oldest box of strip caulk at Advance Auto Parts. I wish I had opened it up because some of it was missing. Either way, it's probably 5 years of strip caulk for me so I guess I can live with it.
IMG_1457.JPG


IMG_1459.JPG
Hopefully this car can come off the lift under its own power! I put a set of E23/E12 turbine wheels I had on the car. They have 205/70/14 XWXs. Figured the test drive might be more enjoyable.

I added coolant, ran some test leads around to the carbs and decided that it was red fan time apparently. Time to see if this car will run! It did. It fired right up. First try. Ran on six cylinders and was super smooth and quiet. Smoky though. ;)

IMG_1460.JPG


After making some real wiring for the carbs, I decided it's time to mount the mirrors and try to drive the car. It was at this point I discovered the mirrors are completely useless, so that was an unnecessary step. Then I closed the hood and that stupid Walloth and Nesch hood seal broke the hood cable so, awesome.

Either way, car is on the road! I am driving my E9! 2 years after I got it, 15 years after it was taken off the road!

IMG_1475.JPG


IMG_1476.JPG


Wow. Neat. It was at this point I discovered the brakes work, then don't. Then I also discovered something else.

IMG_1477.JPG


:( I should have left that crappy black fan on there. This was a super nice red one. Nicest one I've had. I was able to straighten the blade, but it's like when you bite the inside of your mouth. You keep biting the same spot. I ended up spacing the fan back from the radiator with two washers on each bolt. I could still center the fan and I felt this was totally ridiculous but I bought myself some time/space.

IMG_1478.JPG


So then what the heck with the brakes right? Well, I had a NOS Ate 23.81mm master, correct for the car with the residual pressure valve. I ran a couple more liters of fluid through the system but every time I'd get one good pump of the pedal, then it would just go to the floor. Finally after trying to bleed the system manually, it made a huge mess of brake fluid coming OUT of the reservoir. New plan:

IMG_1601.jpg


I ended up ordering an E12 master cylinder. 23.81mm but it doesn't have the residual pressure valve, so there's some travel before I hit the brakes. I decided that at some point I'll get the correct master rebuilt, but at this point I just wanted some brakes. This car has to go home, remember?

Crazy, but the brand new master worked perfectly so the car has brakes. Time for more driving. While I had the wheels off, my new center caps came in. These will be used with a set of Alpina wheels on something someday, but these wheels needed something else.
IMG_1604.JPG


Sharp! Except for the wheels, but the center caps make them look better.

At this point, I had a car that I could lightly drive. I still didn't want to hit the brakes hard because the fan would be in the radiator.

IMG_1612.JPG
IMG_1617.JPG


I took a couple photos outside of the shop. I was pretty excited that being able to drive this was a reality. Still waiting on that hood cable!

IMG_1609.jpg
IMG_1610.jpg


So, at this point I needed to take the car home. Obviously concerned about the fan. I stopped twice on the way home (it's not far, only about 2 miles) to check. Of course, with the hood release broken, it was pretty easy access.

I had to move a bunch of cars to get into the garage, so I parked across the street. Walking back to it, I took a photo.
IMG_1635.JPG


And here it is, in the garage next to my other coupe and my 2002 Turbo in the back living its best life as a shelf.
IMG_1638.JPG


Now the big question was, what in the heck do I do about this radiator and fan situation? Well, I don't know. I didn't touch the car for a few months. I mean I did occasionally start it and let it run a while. I added five gallons of fuel to the tank, but I left the battery disconnected and it didn't leave the garage. I focused on getting customer cars taken care of.
 
Good morning Chris-

The fan/radiator issue can be fixed by using the later BMW fan. It is super thin with a built in fan shroud that makes it impossible for the blade to go into the radiator. You saw it this summer in my car and in the car next to mine. It is a euro only fan so you can’t buy it in the United States? I can send you one when I get home in two weeks or I can share the part number with you. They are very inexpensive! maybe look on eBay?
 
Last edited:
As I said- the fans are inexpensive.

BUT!!!

Shipping is a bitch now….

Fan 18.78

Shipping 177.00
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2160.png
    IMG_2160.png
    279.9 KB · Views: 19
i got my fan from W+N - paid about 48 euro for the part and 49 euro for shipping (that included other stuff too) ... and that was during the de minimus exemption, so no tariff.

1758718877958.png
 
Seems like so many posts are ending in, "So those parts that were $234.00 plus $47.00 shipping are now an additional $384.00 with tariffs, shipping and added shipper's fees."
 
I guess I'll keep going.

I worked on putting the accessories together. I had the alternator rebuilt, I put the power steering pump together with all the newly plated pieces. I installed the things that mount to the inner fender, like the power steering canister, etc. I installed the brake booster and the clutch hydraulics. Bled everything without issue. Lots of stuff coming together. I had an M30B35 starter that had an early solenoid on it so I had no wiring changes for the starter. Way cool. High-five! I decided to change the oil filter head to the E28 one as I had recently changed the oil on a customer's E3 and hated life.

One of the areas I was struggling with was with the pulleys and belts. I had a water pump I bought years ago for my E12 530i for a bolt-on fan clutch and was hell-bent on using it because I was concerned about fan clearance to the radiator. But at the same time, I didn't want to use the stock balancer and belt arrangement despite having everything refinished. I just didn't like it and am a bigger fan of the later style balancer and pulley arrangement. Also, thinking for a future with AC, I like this better. BUT PROBLEM! If I use the original water pump pulley, which is required for the bolt-on fan clutch as the bolt pattern for the pulley is different, There's really no belt size that I can make work with the later balancer. I decided to give up and go with the screw-on fan clutch. I came up with this. This is all just a mock-up as I needed to change hardware on the balancer.

View attachment 208721

When I bought the motor, it came with an aluminum radiator. I was going to have my original radiator gone through but in the interest of making this car run, I decided to go for the fresh aluminum one.

View attachment 208724

I was concerned about clearance (how crazy) and put a used crappy black fan on to see. Apparently I was okay with this at the time?

View attachment 208722
View attachment 208723

Neat. I cleaned up inside the trunk for the fuel tank. View attachment 208725

Then I bought the world's oldest box of strip caulk at Advance Auto Parts. I wish I had opened it up because some of it was missing. Either way, it's probably 5 years of strip caulk for me so I guess I can live with it. View attachment 208726

View attachment 208727Hopefully this car can come off the lift under its own power! I put a set of E23/E12 turbine wheels I had on the car. They have 205/70/14 XWXs. Figured the test drive might be more enjoyable.

I added coolant, ran some test leads around to the carbs and decided that it was red fan time apparently. Time to see if this car will run! It did. It fired right up. First try. Ran on six cylinders and was super smooth and quiet. Smoky though. ;)

View attachment 208728

After making some real wiring for the carbs, I decided it's time to mount the mirrors and try to drive the car. It was at this point I discovered the mirrors are completely useless, so that was an unnecessary step. Then I closed the hood and that stupid Walloth and Nesch hood seal broke the hood cable so, awesome.

Either way, car is on the road! I am driving my E9! 2 years after I got it, 15 years after it was taken off the road!

View attachment 208731

View attachment 208737

Wow. Neat. It was at this point I discovered the brakes work, then don't. Then I also discovered something else.

View attachment 208729

:( I should have left that crappy black fan on there. This was a super nice red one. Nicest one I've had. I was able to straighten the blade, but it's like when you bite the inside of your mouth. You keep biting the same spot. I ended up spacing the fan back from the radiator with two washers on each bolt. I could still center the fan and I felt this was totally ridiculous but I bought myself some time/space.

View attachment 208730

So then what the heck with the brakes right? Well, I had a NOS Ate 23.81mm master, correct for the car with the residual pressure valve. I ran a couple more liters of fluid through the system but every time I'd get one good pump of the pedal, then it would just go to the floor. Finally after trying to bleed the system manually, it made a huge mess of brake fluid coming OUT of the reservoir. New plan:

View attachment 208738

I ended up ordering an E12 master cylinder. 23.81mm but it doesn't have the residual pressure valve, so there's some travel before I hit the brakes. I decided that at some point I'll get the correct master rebuilt, but at this point I just wanted some brakes. This car has to go home, remember?

Crazy, but the brand new master worked perfectly so the car has brakes. Time for more driving. While I had the wheels off, my new center caps came in. These will be used with a set of Alpina wheels on something someday, but these wheels needed something else. View attachment 208739

Sharp! Except for the wheels, but the center caps make them look better.

At this point, I had a car that I could lightly drive. I still didn't want to hit the brakes hard because the fan would be in the radiator.

View attachment 208743View attachment 208742

I took a couple photos outside of the shop. I was pretty excited that being able to drive this was a reality. Still waiting on that hood cable!

View attachment 208745View attachment 208744

So, at this point I needed to take the car home. Obviously concerned about the fan. I stopped twice on the way home (it's not far, only about 2 miles) to check. Of course, with the hood release broken, it was pretty easy access.

I had to move a bunch of cars to get into the garage, so I parked across the street. Walking back to it, I took a photo. View attachment 208741

And here it is, in the garage next to my other coupe and my 2002 Turbo in the back living its best life as a shelf. View attachment 208740

Now the big question was, what in the heck do I do about this radiator and fan situation? Well, I don't know. I didn't touch the car for a few months. I mean I did occasionally start it and let it run a while. I added five gallons of fuel to the tank, but I left the battery disconnected and it didn't leave the garage. I focused on getting customer cars taken care of.
This has been a great update! So glad to see the car back on the road and moving under its own power again after so long. Looking forward to the next one!
 
Thanks for the replies! The two posts I made last night covered progress from about a year ago. Sorry if there was some confusion. I'm just trying to get caught up and have to remember everything that happened from the photos I took.

I didn't do anything of note with the car until April, 2025. It stayed safely in the garage. I initially thought about doing something to take it on the Kustenfahrt in late April, so I got the original wheels out of storage and had the Uniroyal Rain Experts I received from @HB Chris installed on them. Unfortunately, one of the tires was installed backwards and the weights fell off of that same wheel, but I took the car back home and I have to say it looks much better on the original wheels. Also, the old tires were Michelin RainForce, so its fitting that now in its more advanced age, it has taken on a different role with the rain.

IMG_4919.JPG


So I know I was hoping to take the car on the Kustenfahrt, but having done nothing at this point with the fan/radiator problem and not having driven the car and having other cars I haven't driven enough, I wisely decided to take my E12 M535i on that instead. I registered the 2800 CS for Legends of the Autobahn and decided to have the car judged in Preservation class. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I said, hey let's drive the car to Huntington Beach for the HB Concours and get some feedback and a good more relaxing drive under its belt. Yeah!

In mid May, I took my original radiator to the radiator shop to have it checked out. After being on the Kustenfahrt and looking under the hood of multiple E9s, I decided that the fan should certainly work with the original radiator. I picked it up on May 25th and swapped it out at my house. Very straightforward swap. I was less-than-thrilled with the result.
IMG_5483.JPG

IMG_5484.JPG

What the heck? Now, remember the fan has two washers between it and the fan clutch, so it sits further back from the radiator than it would otherwise. I ended up doing a lot of measuring. I have my E9, a customer's E9 and my E12 and I measured clearance from engine (thermostat housing seam) to the core support on all 3 and it was somewhere between 7.5" and 7.25" I know my car wasn't wrecked. My engine is essentially touching the firewall foam so it can't be too far forward. Then I realized that it wasn't so much the radiator core that was the problem but the bracing on the top of the radiator.

Then I also realized I had three E12 radiators in storage, so I went and got those. I figure between these three, we could make something.

IMG_5510.JPG


One of them was already cleaned out 15 years ago but was damaged when my E12 was hit in my driveway and the AC condenser got pushed into it. Turns out, it cracked 15 tubes, so it was not fixable. The other manual radiator was actually good and had been recored, so we decided to go with that one. Apparently, I like spending money on the hope of not spending all of the money and then not actually solving the problem. $600 sure thing new E12 radiator or pay the radiator shop $200 every time they touch a radiator? I'll take option 2 apparently, and I'll still do option 1 eventually. It's the principle or something.

Picked up the E12 radiator from the shop and installed that (getting really good at this, and it's much easier on the E9 than the E3, I will say).

IMG_5606.JPG


Ok. Solved. For now. I'll buy a new one, but money at this point is getting tight.

Also, I haven't mounted a license plate yet. I've been carrying it around in case anyone decided to entice me into having a conversation about it on the side of the road, but it is something I needed to solve. Looking at what the 2800 CS should have had, it looks very similar to a Volvo plate bracket and having spent a lot of time over the years with Volvo 240s, I knew I was set. Problem was, I spent a lot of time looking for one. I found one in an unlikely box of spare injection parts. I took the filler panel off, measured its center, then centered the bracket and drilled a single hole in the crossbar, off center so the plate would be centered. Added a couple pieces of 3M mounting tape to help cushion and protect the chrome on the filler panel and we were set. Plate is mounted! I got some nice acorn nuts to use since the Volvo bracket has studs.

Of course, I don't think any plate frames exist for "H&E German Car Sales" in Palo Alto, and I've never seen one for "Flying Dutchman" in Phoenix, so the juice is loose (the plate is naked).

IMG_5624.JPG


I had been quite busy with some weird projects in the shop, like doing a Sanden compressor conversion on an E34 M5 while retaining the air pump, then a number of other AC-related jobs and I didn't do anything with the coupe. Plan was to go to HB Concours with it and I ended up chickening out since I hadn't driven the car more than a couple miles, so I took my E24 instead. Interesting idea since it didn't have AC. It does now.

IMG_5646.JPG


I don't do much cars and coffee anymore since now there's so many of them and they all have different themes and I can never keep up with that, then when I figure out when it is, I have some work conflict and can't go. Also, they have these things always so early in the morning. This time, I decided we are going to drive the coupe. Why not.

So I did. I got up early.

IMG_5809.JPG


Then I got the best parking spot. Parallel parked without mirrors. When you have the talbot mirrors, you don't have mirrors. Apparently, people don't go to things in June in Arizona.

IMG_5810.JPG


I even drove home.

IMG_5812.JPG


The drive was good. The car drove well. I was comfortable driving it. All of the windows worked except the driver one and that is something I decided needed to be fixed much sooner. Also, AC would be neat. Either way, the car was seen away from my house on a drive to a real place and that counts!

So, with Legends of the Autobahn on the horizon, you'd think I'd just focus on getting the car ready. I really didn't. I was able to finally get that one tire turned around. I also decided to dig into that driver window. I went about that somewhat backwards. I took the door panel off since I could hear the motor trying to work. Then I saw this virtually undisturbed vapor barrier and didn't really know what to do.

IMG_6070.JPG


I then geniusly (that is now an adverb) focused my attention to the switch and found that one of the leads was switched and then the window worked perfectly. Wasn't even that slow!

This called for some photos. But first some fuel. Business gas.

IMG_6122.JPG


IMG_6124.JPG
IMG_6123.JPG


Up next, i'll get into getting the car ready for the trip and the regular messages I received hoping that I was driving the car around getting comfortable with it before deciding to drive it 750 miles in one shot to Monterey.
 
Back
Top