My new to me 73’ 3.0cs

[Oldbmwcoupes]

Steve, thanks for clarification on the power of the a/c in the south. Truthfully I had hoped you had found the solution to giving modern a/c to a coupe. I may just try to install the rear a/c from one of my old parts e24 cars if I actually ever really start into the silver car like I want to.

Markos, the 265/6 is probably a better trans. Many 265/5 (close ratio) trannies suffer the lay shaft bearing failures as well as destroyed synchronizes on that 2nd gear shift. Like you, I’m using mine for the novelty of it. It somehow makes the car just that little bit more exotic.

 

[Drew Gregg]

The a/c will not cool the car down if it's been parked while baking in the hot southern sun. It will keep you cool during morning and evening drives, and keep you alive mid day. If you get caught in rain it will keep windshield from fogging up. It's great on road trips. I would like to put some clear UV tint on my windows, except the front and rear windshields are a big challenge for installers because of the curves, this would help the a/c in a big way.

I have the Xpel 70% tint on all of my windows. The front and back can be done by an experienced installer like the person who did mine in South Florida. Now all of the UV sunrays are gone and the heat coming through the windows is greatly reduced.

 

[Bejoe16]

Updating this as more of a restoration/motivation thread. I’ve decided to take on more of this myself than originally planned. Mainly to keep costs down but I don’t want to suffer on the quality. I do not work nearly as fast as most of yall, so updates will come as soon as I have questions or make notable progress. The last week or so I’ve been getting ready to repair the drivers floor.
Removed the seat bracket.
Mocked up the rear pan.
Coming up with a plan for the front pan. Walloths floor pan lack of quality is making things more difficult especially for a novice like me.

 

[eriknetherlands]

indeed the floor pans from Walloth are missing some details.
Here's some suggestion what i did to get them as accurate as I'd liked them to be:

Fixing that little rust spot...

the magic machine! Just watched in amazement the video posted above. Didn't know it before, laserablation i think its called. Googled something and appearently these systems cost around 200.000 euro....

e9coupe.com

I've used a bead roller for the beads, and shrinking dies to get the curve up front. The oval and rectangular openings can also be straight cut into the plate. Pressing in the depressions is for the die-hards ( as it needs a custom pressing die) .

I think the pressing die (tool) I made to press the rectangular depression, is still with a forum member in the US somewhere. I agreed to send it to him, if he would send it on to the next forum member in need - interested?

Fixing that little rust spot...

the magic machine! Just watched in amazement the video posted above. Didn't know it before, laserablation i think its called. Googled something and appearently these systems cost around 200.000 euro....

e9coupe.com

 

[Bejoe16]

indeed the floor pans from Walloth are missing some details.
Here's some suggestion what i did to get them as accurate as I'd liked them to be:

Fixing that little rust spot...

the magic machine! Just watched in amazement the video posted above. Didn't know it before, laserablation i think its called. Googled something and appearently these systems cost around 200.000 euro....

e9coupe.com

I've used a bead roller for the beads, and shrinking dies to get the curve up front. The oval and rectangular openings can also be straight cut into the plate. Pressing in the depressions is for the die-hards ( as it needs a custom pressing die) .

I think the pressing die (tool) I made to press the rectangular depression, is still with a forum member in the US somewhere. I agreed to send it to him, if he would send it on to the next forum member in need - interested?

Fixing that little rust spot...

the magic machine! Just watched in amazement the video posted above. Didn't know it before, laserablation i think its called. Googled something and appearently these systems cost around 200.000 euro....

e9coupe.com

I think I might not need to cut out my original. But if I decide to replace, I will definitely take you up on that offer.

Small update. Dropped the entire front subframe with the engine and transmission.
Made the front part of the chassis cart/dolly.
Found some more rust that appears to be partially repaired around the left rear subframe mount. but more exploring is required once rear end is dropped.

 

[tdgray]

Now that’s a cool trick… didn’t know you could do that.

 

[rblongboarder]

I concur.. Removing the entire subframe, suspension, engine and transmission as a whole.. very useful. I'm going to attempt this on my E3.