Sorry, have to ask. You sure the connector and switch are clocked correctly? Pins going into the right sockets?
Same for the 2002s. At least one of those wires is always hot and might cause a lot of excitement if pushed into the wrong spade slot.It only fits one way
Ok, no more shortcuts, here is how to check the switch, based on part #43 of this schematic:Well, that would be great. I’ll try anything. I’ve been going through all wires looking for ground issues and everything looks solid so far.
No.PS - should flashers work on car without the hazard switch plugged in?
Yes, that suggests reversing the interpretation of "depressed". I think to activate the hazards you press and the switch mechanically is pulled out, so you would call that depressed....Ok, so results aren’t looking good or I don’t know what I’m doing. I have my multimeter set to test continuity (OPEN means cicuit is not continuous and SHORT means circuit is continue or shorted) - results when NOT installed and NOT depressed (exceptions only) respective top to bottom above:
- 15 to 49 - NO continuity
- L continuity to 49A, R and 31
- R continuity to 49A, L and 31
- 49A continuity to L, R and 31
Results NOT installed and depressed (exceptions only) respective top to bottom above:
- 30 to 49 - NO continuity
- L NO continuity to any other pin
- R NO continuity to any other pin
- 49A NO continuity to any other pin
I am now assuming the notes above from Arde are reversed? If so, the only real exceptions are the 15 to 49 and 30 to 49 - so is pin 49 the issue and if so, what does pin 49 do? Looking at the schematic I can see where 15 is connected/disconnected to 49 but not how 49 connects to 30.
Thoughts?
John
The brake light is not part of the hazard circuit which uses turn signals. Have you checked the switch above the brake pedal? When switch is released the circuit is completed, you can make sure you have power to that switch.Thanks for the reply. Rather than opening up, I have requested a replacement from Pelican. Once I have a new one, I will update this thread. Thanks to all for their support.
Finally - does anyone think the fact that the brake lights still do not work have anything to do with this hazard switch issue?
John
I also checked continuity of the switch both pressed and depressed - only received open circuit results. Again, does this confirm that switch is bad?
All help is greatly appreciated,
John
Yes, I'm not surprised. If your old mechanical flasher worked with your old switch, then the electronic flasher wasn't likely to make a difference. Still, the e-flasher is a worthwhile upgrade.Ok, so I completed the new flasher upgrade. Still no flashers, no brake lights and new hazard switch does not light up. Does anyone have any insights on where to start testing?
jbrubaker001 said:Is it coincidence that the hazard and turn signals do not work or is this a bad hazard relay?
Mot27cars said:What about if someone sent you an old one and see if it changes things.
Yes, I should have used switch ON and OFF positions instead of pressed and de-pressed...Doesn’t pushing on pedal close the switch? Normally it is depressed and open.