that is a switch and a red light to know that the electronics of the antenna are switched on
the radio is so simple that it has not the feature that gives power to the antenna as son as the radio is switched on
new integrated console for gauges and radio
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
that is a switch and a red light to know that the electronics of the antenna are switched on
the radio is so simple that it has not the feature that gives power to the antenna as son as the radio is switched on
is 52 +1mm
gauges are 52mm so the holes are +0,5mm each side, leather will be able to compensate
gauge exterior is 56mm
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
DeQuincey-
Couldn't help but notice that you moved the AC switches to the shifter console. I also see that you blocked off the lower front vents usually found with the AC panel. What else have you changed with the console structure to support these modifications? It all looks good.
Couldn't help but notice that you moved the AC switches to the shifter console. I also see that you blocked off the lower front vents usually found with the AC panel. What else have you changed with the console structure to support these modifications? It all looks good.
Great information as usual from deQ. Must be getting close to writing a compilation book. Next project? Put me down for a copy.
thank you gazz, you never know, stay tuned ;-)
hi it was not me who did this
it seems that this was done circa 1974 by a bmw dealer in spain
car was originally not AC when sold first time in paris
once in spain, they fitted a york compressor and correct condenser, correct switches in the weird place you see them now, and an odd behr evaporator not fitting the correct supports, neither the front fascia, neither the lateral console panels provided with openings and grilles, but modified the original non AC panels
so there is a reason for me hunting all those difficult to find AC bits with an estimate cost of more than 2,8k to bring AC to originality
the motometer ladies:
not yet installed: i think the radio chromed lines will give a shiny contrast to so much dark background, a pity motometer do not have chromed bezels
not yet installed: i think the radio chromed lines will give a shiny contrast to so much dark background, a pity motometer do not have chromed bezels
Hi Dequincy -- your project looks great. I found a 2 1/8" drill for the gauges, which works out to just under 54mm. I believe I can make this work with the 52mm gauges and the leather. (I have already stolen my design from the dimensional drawing picture you posted earlier, thank you very much).
One thought on your side consoles. If you look at the top of your consoles there is a small gap between the top of the side panels and the lower part of the dash. On my car, there is a metal bar across the bottom of these two panels that is bolted to the chassis that connects and braces the side panels. The panels are screwed into the bar. I was able to diminish the side panel gap at the top by using a couple of small washers underneath the cross bar where it screws into the chassis. This raises the cross bar and both side panels at the same time. I think a smaller gap looks better.
One thought on your side consoles. If you look at the top of your consoles there is a small gap between the top of the side panels and the lower part of the dash. On my car, there is a metal bar across the bottom of these two panels that is bolted to the chassis that connects and braces the side panels. The panels are screwed into the bar. I was able to diminish the side panel gap at the top by using a couple of small washers underneath the cross bar where it screws into the chassis. This raises the cross bar and both side panels at the same time. I think a smaller gap looks better.
Leather made a huge difference over the black glossy texture it replaces.
The shift pattern shows you are missing a gear... New project?
The shift pattern shows you are missing a gear... New project?
thank you for your comments: let me explain myself a bit
you are welcome to steal my drawings, if you stop there your thefts i am still safe ;-)
as to the drill, i am using a drill saw that makes 50 to 51,5mm, not homogeneus, then i complete the work precisely using a sand paper up to 52,5mm, the hole must be slightly bigger than 52mm
the question is that being a soft Wood the center drill bit can easily move causing not a precission cut, so i ended it with the sand paper to get an exact circumference
i have not shown the process of this cuts, but it is quite elaborate, i used a thick Wood below the plywood and firmly attache the plywood to the thick one, this way the centering drill stays firmly centered
as to the leather i cut it afterwards using a blade, i do not think it would be a good idea to use the drill over an upholstered Wood panel, leather is not homogeneus neither isotropic so you might find the drill being suddenly blocked and tearing the leather, subsequently runining your work
gap on top of the consoles, is due to internal interference with the evaporator of the AC.
I will have to fix it as it looks really not top class, but it is a longer shot as i will have to disassemble it and improve the overall aspect of that área
thanks for all your advices,...
Last edited:
stphers
Well-Known Member
center console
Hi
Vry nice work. Have a look at Fiat 124 Spider parts place or used parts, they have a stainless steel chrome look bezels that go over the black ones, they might work See the kit in the first picture Or Alfa Spider 69-75 has these plastic chrome bezels that tilt the gauge to wards the drives, pretty cool. I did a similiar idea in an older 1600 hotrod that I had years ago and it was quite different that other guys.
Nice work on the whole car.
Thanks, Rick
Hi
Vry nice work. Have a look at Fiat 124 Spider parts place or used parts, they have a stainless steel chrome look bezels that go over the black ones, they might work See the kit in the first picture Or Alfa Spider 69-75 has these plastic chrome bezels that tilt the gauge to wards the drives, pretty cool. I did a similiar idea in an older 1600 hotrod that I had years ago and it was quite different that other guys.
Nice work on the whole car.
Thanks, Rick
Attachments
created a final one after adjusting the angles
the first prototype has an interference to my odd AC evaporator, so starting from scratch again:
increased the slope between the two planes, thus it became thicker, and had to remove from back for switches
most amazing switches, original lucas from jaguar cars
bits:
process
check
protect with varnish
cover in leather
compare slope
install the bits
the first prototype has an interference to my odd AC evaporator, so starting from scratch again:
increased the slope between the two planes, thus it became thicker, and had to remove from back for switches
most amazing switches, original lucas from jaguar cars
bits:
process
check
protect with varnish
cover in leather
compare slope
install the bits
Hoping to shamelessly steal DeQuincy's design, I am planning oil temp, oil pressure, voltage and air/fuel mix.
I've installed the VDO oil pressure sender (with the option for the stock idiot light):
The VDO oil temp sender:
And have made provisions for the air/fuel gauge:
DeQ - where exactly did you have a problem with your first prototype? I suspect the cross support behind the face and above the gauges was too deep?
I've installed the VDO oil pressure sender (with the option for the stock idiot light):
The VDO oil temp sender:
And have made provisions for the air/fuel gauge:
DeQ - where exactly did you have a problem with your first prototype? I suspect the cross support behind the face and above the gauges was too deep?