One word. Plastics

mulberryworks said:
Ideal wishes are bumping up against budget and setback constraints.
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autokunst said:
Not sure about your area, but construction costs are as high as ever right now. It is a tough time to build - hard to see the value.
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I would agree with the above. Ask me how I know!

However, you can still get the value if you do it all yourself. I’m doing everything inside except hvac (and hopefully drywall) myself.. GC’ing myself and hiring a framer was 4x cheaper than using a GC. I got three bids, all the same astronomical figure. I’m still using 30% more than my original budget while doing it all myself.

But hey, the e9 will have a garage and the house will have another 1,100sf.

A9CE181D-1A6F-46CC-8CAA-F850E6F4A12A.jpeg
 
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I don't see board formed concrete very often (ever, really) - except when one wants that as a finish. Old school (in a good way). ;)
 
autokunst said:
I don't see board formed concrete very often (ever, really) - except when one wants that as a finish. Old school (in a good way). ;)
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It’s a little deceiving because the bottom boards are 4’ and 3’, but definitely not steel forms. My framer has had his business since 1981 and started in concrete. He took on the footings and walls.
 
autokunst said:
Hi Ian,
Not at all. I've attached a plan of Raven's Nest. As you'll see, almost half of our 24' x 40' structure is my workspace. The floorspace of the work area is approximately 18' x 22'. The equipment and storage is illustrated as well (including the proposed plating station). I think anyone ( @Markos ) would agree that there's not a lot of floor space to "work" in. More than some but less than others for sure.
View attachment 143175

Not sure about your area, but construction costs are as high as ever right now. It is a tough time to build - hard to see the value. But that doesn't seem to be slowing down our clients. Much of the cost is in the excavation and concrete. Of course, building larger will cost more, but the mobilization costs and the ticket price to get underway is a majority. Which is to say, build a little bigger if you can. You'll be thankful later.
Stephen
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Very nice. It looks like we are working with similar spaces. I have a tight two car garage that would be more comfortable if it didn't house the water heater and conditioner and have the laundry room carved out of it. I'm looking to add a third bay that's actually just a big bigger than your allotted working space. The ceiling height will be taller than the rest of our mid 80's single story home. I wanted to make it 30' deep, but we decided it would eat up too much of the back yard space.


Floor plan of Bay 3 addition.png
 
Markos said:
I would agree with the above. Ask me how I know!

However, you can still get the value if you do it all yourself. I’m doing everything inside except hvac (and hopefully drywall) myself..
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There are AC systems that you can DIY. They have components precharged with refrigerant, including the lines, so you can plug them together and be ready to go.
I'm seeing a number of ads for MRCOOL products, but haven't verified if they would be the best for my desired setup using a mini split system.

MRCOOL

Comfort Made Simple
mrcool.com mrcool.com

Drywall is doable DIY, but I'd recommend renting a lift for the ceiling and maybe hiring a second set of hands. The first time I assisted in drywalling as a young photographer's assistant in the 70's, the guys were using nails to fasten the panels onto the ceiling joists. Oy. Drywall screws are so much better.

You're doing electrical too? I'll have to run a line out of my breaker for a new sub panel in the new garage bay. There are many specific rules to follow, but it's doable.

Ian
 
I installed my own heat pump (ductless mini split) that provides heating and cooling year 'round. In some ways it is nicer in the garage than in the house. I just did all the drywall work on a house project, but hated it. I had pros do the garage, but I did the priming and painting which saved a few bucks. The crew left their scaffold their for me to use.
 
autokunst said:
I installed my own heat pump (ductless mini split) that provides heating and cooling year 'round. In some ways it is nicer in the garage than in the house. I just did all the drywall work on a house project, but hated it. I had pros do the garage, but I did the priming and painting which saved a few bucks. The crew left their scaffold their for me to use.
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I have a friend in Seattle who's a mechanical engineer and has been wrenching on cars since his teens and when he needs drywall work done he calls his "Drywall Wizard" who does it better and faster than he ever could. Know your strengths and hire out the stuff you don't want to do. Drywall is heavy and the work is messy but most of the cost is in labor. What's your time worth?
The last time I hired painters was for the interior of our 5K square foot house in St. Paul. My first wife was a newly employed Urologist while I was working for a small ad agency and this freshening up of the house paint followed a long kitchen rebuild. They did a nice job but boy was it pricey. I was a little cheesed that the crew chief spent most of his time at his home tending his kielbasa. I painted the outside the next year myself.
 
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Stephan - I have a crazy suggestion for you. I happened to be in Madison over the weekend, and accompanied my sister in law to a couple of rummage sales. At one of them, we spotted 12, 10 and 5 gallon ceramic stoneware crocks. They are much more expensive that plastic buckets, but unlikely to leak. And they hold their value well. Perhaps you could pick up a couple of ceramic crocks, and get your money back out of them when your car is done.
 
mulberryworks said:
There are AC systems that you can DIY. They have components precharged with refrigerant, including the lines, so you can plug them together and be ready to go.
I'm seeing a number of ads for MRCOOL products, but haven't verified if they would be the best for my desired setup using a mini split system.

MRCOOL

Comfort Made Simple
mrcool.com mrcool.com

Drywall is doable DIY, but I'd recommend renting a lift for the ceiling and maybe hiring a second set of hands. The first time I assisted in drywalling as a young photographer's assistant in the 70's, the guys were using nails to fasten the panels onto the ceiling joists. Oy. Drywall screws are so much better.

You're doing electrical too? I'll have to run a line out of my breaker for a new sub panel in the new garage bay. There are many specific rules to follow, but it's doable.

Ian
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Okay sorry to send this thread astray but it is off topic, and @autokunst has a path forward with his buckets.

HVAC; I need a new furnace and air handler to accommodate the extra SF. The furnace is 30yo and at EOL , but technically capable of handling the SF. Air handler not so much. I want AC, but will be doing a heat pump as the cost differential is minimal. I need all the energy credits I can get. I wouldn’t shy away from the heat pump install, but I don’t want to do gas work in the house. Also, I need quite a bit of ducting. In addition to this, I had to have my meter moved about 8’. That required 80’ of boring to move the gas line around my e9 garage.

Electrical: yes, including a new panel. I also need to move my service line. I found a recently retired career inspector that consults for homeowners. He is very affordable also. He will build me a plan that includes my order, and walk through all of the code concerns. Getting supplies post framing will be a scramble. My buddy has contractor pricing at an electrical supply house so that will help.

Plumbing: I’ve done lots of it but it will be my first interior pex project. I’m destroying every bathroom in the house so lots of drain work also. I found a local plumber on disability. He can’t work, but I’m going to have him consult on the code bits.

Drywall: I may dry fit, at least the walls and small rooms. No widow maker stilts for me. I’m all about the proper rental tools. My neighbor car buddy (FD RX7’s) has an excellent drywall finisher

Paint: I already sprayed my entire two story house a few years ago. Most of that was prep and repair on the siding. The whole job took 2 months, Spraying is the easy part. Took my shoulder six months to recover after a cortisone shot. I said never again but I basically have to repaint most of the house again.

Roofing: I discovered that a warehouse manager at my local roofing supply runs his own crew on the side and is licensed and bonded. The sales rep said he has had him do all of his friends and family. Got a very reasonable quote. I need to purchase the TPO this week.

Excavation: Complete. I rented multiple “small” excavators (~6K lbs, 3’ bucket). A five yard diesel dump truck. My gas company service man needed fill at his property. I excavated and trucked 45 yards of fill to his property over four days. Fill disposal is anywhere from $105 per ton to $35 a yard depending on how far you haul it. I removed another 10 yards cutting my trenches and staged on the property for backfill. I still need to clear the slab but will wait until the garage is framed.
 
autokunst said:
Couldn't resist that great line from The Graduate.
View attachment 143120

I have been plating my own parts with good results. Most of my system is based on Caswell, but there are a few tweaks. I have a 1.5 gallon system which lives in 2 gallon buckets. But I've had (3) buckets leak. These are nasty chemicals that can cause harm to my garage and/or those who hang out in it (me). All three leaks came from the exact same place - the 'belly button" at the bottom of the buckets. I have buckets from three different sources, and two of the three brands have leaked. I think it is only a matter of time before they all leak. I plan on setting each 2 gallon bucket within a second, larger bucket as a spill prevention technique. But I'd love to find better buckets - ones that would not leak at the belly button. I don't think it is the chemicals reacting with the plastic. Rather, I think the little nub pushes up on the plastic and eventually it cracks.
View attachment 143118View attachment 143119

Does anyone have any recommendations for "a better bucket"?
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I had a look at the bottom of my grey pickle bucket and found it was made by Letica in 2018 and is still in great shape. Apparently model number 9548-4, but I can't be sure just what that number is. I did a quick search and Amazon has "premium" singles for an eye-watering price, but a batch of 6 for $16 each. Uline probably carries them, I found a link to a Technical sheet for some Letica buckets, but don't know if they are the same ones. It certainly seems like they do some rigorous testing.
They come in a range of colors. It's hard to say which color would be more durable. I'd go with black or gray myself. I didn't check to see if other sizes are available from Letica.

 
Markos said:
Okay sorry to send this thread astray but it is off topic, and @autokunst has a path forward with his buckets.

HVAC; I need a new furnace and air handler to accommodate the extra SF. The furnace is 30yo and at EOL , but technically capable of handling the SF. Air handler not so much. I want AC, but will be doing a heat pump as the cost differential is minimal. I need all the energy credits I can get. I wouldn’t shy away from the heat pump install, but I don’t want to do gas work in the house. Also, I need quite a bit of ducting. In addition to this, I had to have my meter moved about 8’. That required 80’ of boring to move the gas line around my e9 garage.
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Ah, a really big project there. Do be aware that you shouldn't (can't by code) have the house HVAC connected to the garage. Possible fumes from gas and smoke from a garage fire could enter the house so you'll need a separate system there.
 
mulberryworks said:
Ah, a really big project there. Do be aware that you shouldn't (can't by code) have the house HVAC connected to the garage. Possible fumes from gas and smoke from a garage fire could enter the house so you'll need a separate system there.
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No plans for garage hvac. Seattle weather is too mild to even consider. I am putting foam under the slab, and my new garage doors are twice as thick as old.

My house didn’t even have wall insulation until I blew some in four years ago.
 
mulberryworks said:
I had a look at the bottom of my grey pickle bucket and found it was made by Letica in 2018 and is still in great shape. Apparently model number 9548-4, but I can't be sure just what that number is. I did a quick search and Amazon has "premium" singles for an eye-watering price, but a batch of 6 for $16 each. Uline probably carries them, I found a link to a Technical sheet for some Letica buckets, but don't know if they are the same ones. It certainly seems like they do some rigorous testing.
They come in a range of colors. It's hard to say which color would be more durable. I'd go with black or gray myself. I didn't check to see if other sizes are available from Letica.

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Interesting, and thank you for the info. I'd mentioned that someone else that is doing a lot of plating suggesting getting buckets from Lowes. When I type in Letica, a link to Lowes does come up. Interestingly, the Letica buckets are out of stock but cost less than the United Solutions buckets that I did buy/do have.

20220621-lowes bucket options copy.jpg

I am really jazzed about @halboyles laundry tub solution. This would make my life easier as I wouldn't have to crawl around on the floor to plate. The tub will automatically act as the emergency catchment system. I really believe that the crux of my leaks is the little plastic "nipple" that is pushed into the floor once the bucket has liquid in it. I feel this is a stress point (much like our rear shock towers) that causes a failure "eventually". Perhaps hanging the buckets in a "countertop" will alleviate that stress completely, and presumably transfer it to the entire rim of the bucket at the top.
 
I work for a scientific supply company and different plastics are better for storing different chemicals, Some chemicals cannot be stored in plastic at all. If you tell me the exact chemical or the chemical CAS number I can tell you the best plastic to store it.
This company has options
www.uline.com

ULINE - Shipping Boxes, Shipping Supplies, Packaging Materials, Packing Supplies

Uline stocks over 42,000 shipping boxes, packing materials, warehouse supplies, material handling and more. Same day shipping for cardboard boxes, plastic bags, janitorial, retail and shipping supplies.
www.uline.com www.uline.com
This is the company I work with but it would be very expensive to purchase retail from my company

VWR, Part of Avantor - Chemicals and Laboratory Scientific Supplies

VWR International, a global laboratory supplier and distributor of chemicals, life science products, consumables, equipment, instruments, furniture, e-commerce and services
us.vwr.com us.vwr.com
I am in no way an expert but let me know if I can help
 
Sure I have some catalogs that have chemicals and the common plastics and how long you can store them for and at what temperature in the common plastics.
To be clear I am in sales and I am sure someone on this site is a chemist and knows way more than me....although I sell to chemist and they ask me so maybe I can help
 

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Please don't use AC condensate to water your lawn, it is basically distilled water and that is not good. Engineers on our new hospital building proposed the use of the AC condensate to water lawn and trees since the city wanted a "runoff" plan. Grass and trees were dead after one season. No electrolytes.

You need to find a large ceramic planter without a hole perhaps?
 
Wobdog said:
Sure I have some catalogs that have chemicals and the common plastics and how long you can store them for and at what temperature in the common plastics.
To be clear I am in sales and I am sure someone on this site is a chemist and knows way more than me....although I sell to chemist and they ask me so maybe I can help
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Just glancing quickly at the page you posted, I see that HDPE is suitable for hydrochloric acid. All of the "common" buckets I am finding are made of HDPE, so that is probably the answer. But, to run this to the ground, the main buckets include:

ACID DIP:
Hydrochloric Acid approximately 5% solution

ZINC PLATING BATH:
Zinc chloride 30% to 50%

YELLOW CHROMATE:
Chromium Trioxide (trivalent chromium) < 17%
Sodium dichromate < 17%
Nitric acid < 14%
Sulfuric acid <10%

BLUE CHROMATE (clear finish):
Nitric acid < 40%
Nitric acid, chromate salts 14% to 17%
Sulfuric acid 1% to 2%
Ammonium Bifluoride 0.5% to 1.5%

BLACK CHROMATE:
Chromate trioxide < 29%
Sulfuric acid < 15%
 
This is exactly what I needed I have listed the plastics that compatible . Spoiler alert it looks like if you want to use one container for everything LDPE (low density polyethylene) the best



My company would be very expensive so try these guys. If you need help let me know and I can search more

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/i...Ad_Edt-RfgvtSDNA_51DMfmjjxA1uYQxoCXBYQAvD_BwE



Spoiler alert #2 If you do not get to the end of this long response PLEASE YOU PROTECTIVE WARE. Glasses, Apron and gloves. This is a good chart




ACID DIP:
Hydrochloric Acid approximately 5% solution LDPE, HDPE, PP,PC, PS- Basically all the common plastics

ZINC PLATING BATH:
Zinc chloride 30% to 50% My chart only has 10% all of the above again

YELLOW CHROMATE:
Chromium Trioxide (trivalent chromium) < 17% Not in my table
ACID DIP:
Hydrochloric Acid approximately 5% solution Good with all common plasics except PETG

ZINC PLATING BATH:
Zinc chloride 30% to 50% See above

YELLOW CHROMATE:
Chromium Trioxide (trivalent chromium) < 17%
Sodium dichromate < 17% My cart does not have this
Nitric acid < 14% LDPE
Sulfuric acid <10% All the common plastics

BLUE CHROMATE (clear finish):
Nitric acid < 40% LDPE is excellent at 20% but drops to good at 50% and drops to Fair at 50% a5 50 degrees celsius
Nitric acid, chromate salts 14% to 17% See above
Sulfuric acid 1% to 2% See above
Ammonium Bifluoride 0.5% to 1.5% Not on my chart

BLACK CHROMATE:
Chromate trioxide < 29% not on my chart
Sulfuric acid < 15% See above
Sodium dichromate < 17% All plastics are fine
Nitric acid < 14% LDPE
Sulfuric acid <10% See above

BLUE CHROMATE (clear finish):
Nitric acid < 40% see above
Nitric acid, chromate salts 14% to 17%
Sulfuric acid 1% to 2% see above


Ammonium Bifluoride 0.5% to 1.5% not on my chart

BLACK CHROMATE:
Chromate trioxide < 29% Not on my chart
Sulfuric acid < 15% See above


Here is the chart I used if you want to get more info




ALSO WEAR protective eyewear and the correct gloves. These chemicals are no joke and if you do not have the correct gloves chemicals can burn or soak into your blood stream



My company also sells glove and many glove compatibly charts online

 
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