Prep for 3.5 Megasquirt

Need some advise.. Please..
I need to weld a "bung" onto my stainless downpipe for the O2 sensor; is it easy to weld a small bit onto stainless or do I have to bring it to NASA???

Also, does anyone know where I can get a couple of these rubber trim? pieces. I could not find the part number on real OEM-

Thanks-
 

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Hi Peter,

you can weld stainless fairly easy as you are used to regular steel. Even with the regular wire material, that you're taking for your welding device. But of course it will rust then.

I have another small roll (2 kg) of stainless steel wire 0,8 mm dia for these kind of duties, mainly for exhaust systems.

Just try out, you'll see it's no rocket science .... .

Greets

Ingo
 
Hi Folks, I need some help removing the A/C evap? from under the dash. In for a penny..... I figured as long as I'm down the rabbit hole I might as well make it comfortable. I have everything removed including the steering column but the heater box and the fan is still snugly in there. My dumb-ass smart phone won't send pictures to my computer so I can't show you what I'm looking at but I know some of you can help :)

Thanks!
 
Peter Coomaraswamy said:
Hi Folks, I need some help removing the A/C evap? from under the dash. In for a penny..... I figured as long as I'm down the rabbit hole I might as well make it comfortable. I have everything removed including the steering column but the heater box and the fan is still snugly in there. My dumb-ass smart phone won't send pictures to my computer so I can't show you what I'm looking at but I know some of you can help :)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are two small bolts at the back of the box. On the floor near the trans tunnel. They connect the box to the steel support bracket.
 
Peter,

As long as the side panels and faceplate have been removed it’s pretty simple. Remove the two M6 bolts on either side of the HVAC control panel, they are next to the dash rail. Swing the controls out a bit and remove the two large Phillips screws on top of the mechanism that holds the levers to remove the HVAC faceplate, this gives you more room to maneuver the rest out. Hard lines on side of evap need to be disconnected. I think there is a screw under the front of the blower assembly but can not remember for sure. Avoid undoing control cables unless absolutely necessary, there is one that might need to be disconnected. It is difficult but doable to now swing the AC assembly/box out to the passenger side. Once that is out you can reach the heater box itself, only difficulty is seeing and reaching one of the four nuts on the driver side of the box. I may have some pics from when I did this.
 
You guys are awesome, I got it out with no worries and now I'm repairing the plastic pieces and re-doing the felt. I put a bunch of new stuff in and I'll take pictures with some explanations in case anyone else is silly enough to do this .
 
Back to bother the experts again; does anyone have a picture of where they welded the fitting for the O2 sensor on the downpipe. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks-
 
Peter,

I used the inner of the two downpipes, right after it goes horizontal weld it facing the trans. Plenty of room for the wire and safe from road debris.
 
Peter - I would put it right after the two downpipes have merged (unless you are measuring the two banks separately). It should also be clocked above the pipe centerline to avoid condensation collection. Here is a photo showing where I located mine. Remember you may want to remove it without having to remove the exhaust so allow room for wrench access.

IMG_7448 (3).jpg
 
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