americium
Well-Known Member
It‘s Schneider Motors in Anaheim.
Quick question about rear seat in 2800
- Thread starter americium
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Baikallackierung
Well-Known Member
I used their cleaner once and liked it (pinnacle). Your interior looks like it does not need a deep cleaning so their product might be ideal. Usually when I am starting out with a relatively clean surface, I just use a natural cleaner such as Bronner's and mix a formula that fits my needs at the moment - it has a nice unoffensive aroma unlike some cleaners that have heavy perfume. If you have any biological cleaning to do, I recommend an enzyme cleaner such as scuba diving cleaner - Revivex by Gear Aid. Dawn is best for getting oils out. My next experiment will involve an Oxyclean product designed for black clothing. I have some carpets that need deep cleaning so I plan to try it there.
No way! He was a dealer for only 3 or 4 years, I have one on my NK that I restored. Please post a pic.
americium
Well-Known Member
Was he selling new BMWs? Could this be where the car was initially sold?
I heard it’s not good to post license numbers on the www so please excuse the obscured numbers...
americium
Well-Known Member
Yes, I was pleasantly surprised at how good the condition of the seats were when I pulled the seat covers off. I cleaned them with Simple Green as suggested by Sir Duct-Tape. Although they looked pretty good there was a good amount of grime in the rinse water. So at this point they are pretty darn clean. Having just done the mineral oil treatment I’ll wait a couple months to try the Pinnacle product. However I haven’t cleaned and treated the doors and dash yet so I will try it there.
Which brings up another thing, the dash does have a crack. It’s mostly good but there is that. If anyone has a suggestion on the best way to deal with that I’d love to hear it.
The letters on your plate will confirm year of issue. CA DMV won’t provide personal data to anyone.
Same in all states.
In addition, hundreds (thousands?) of people see your license plate every day as you drive around.
Baikallackierung
Well-Known Member
This stuff is amazing, but I do not know how it accepts vinyl paint. For lack of a technical way of describing it, the sealer is two part similar to epoxy products, but cures like a flexible rubber. Color is a bit more gray than our dashes. I am going to try to mask a crack, fill with the product, apply an epoxy primer (with a flex agent if I'm feeling thorough) and then top coat with a matching vinyl color.
If not used for the dash it is amazing for other patching
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americium
Well-Known Member
Ok, alright. The missing letters are AZQ.
Original plate issued in 1970, very cool.
americium
Well-Known Member
This stuff is amazing, but I do not know how it accepts vinyl paint. For lack of a technical way of describing it, the sealer is two part similar to epoxy products, but cures like a flexible rubber. Color is a bit more gray than our dashes. I am going to try to mask a crack, fill with the product, apply an epoxy primer (with a flex agent if I'm feeling thorough) and then top coat with a matching vinyl color.
If not used for the dash it is amazing for other patching
3M™ AC-350 Class B Aerospace Sealants | Aircraft Spruce
3M™ AC-350 Class B Aerospace Sealants 3M Aerospace Sealant AC-350 is a family of intermediate density, fast-curing, polysulfide fuel tank sealants that provides outstanding resistance to aviation fuels and petroleum chemicals.www.aircraftspruce.com
I’ll be interested to hear how your experiment with this product goes. The thixotropic paste version might be good to fill a gap on the dash.
americium
Well-Known Member
Neat! It must be among the first of the blue plates issued.
Absolutely!
The process for repairing a dash crack takes a lot of confidence, but anyone can do it with some basic tools.
The biggest thing is that a crack is more like a swelling. when you repair it, you have to cut away the swelling and then fill it. Get out a small straight edge and lay it on the crack and see how bad it actually is. then you use a razor to cut it to a vee (to fill it) cutting the vee wide enough to remove the swell and the straight edge lays flat. Then you can use a vinyl filler. as its curing, you can texture it with another piece of vinyl. I'm sure theres videos out there
If I were doing it on my own dash, I would try to remove the swelling without cutting a vee. I'd try using a dental pick to remove the swollen material underneath the vinyl and try using some sort of heat source to flatten it, then its just a matter of dressing up a thin line, rather than a 1 inch vee.
The biggest thing is that a crack is more like a swelling. when you repair it, you have to cut away the swelling and then fill it. Get out a small straight edge and lay it on the crack and see how bad it actually is. then you use a razor to cut it to a vee (to fill it) cutting the vee wide enough to remove the swell and the straight edge lays flat. Then you can use a vinyl filler. as its curing, you can texture it with another piece of vinyl. I'm sure theres videos out there
If I were doing it on my own dash, I would try to remove the swelling without cutting a vee. I'd try using a dental pick to remove the swollen material underneath the vinyl and try using some sort of heat source to flatten it, then its just a matter of dressing up a thin line, rather than a 1 inch vee.
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americium
Well-Known Member
I get what you are saying about the swelling, I’ve seen that. Your solution sounds like a good one. Thanks for the advice, I’ll check out YouTube.