IIRC The head bolts are torqued this way
Rear Wheel hub removal: Help Needed
- Thread starter Paulaner
- Start date
If they are new bolts yes
I was under the impression that they should ALWAYS be new bolts...
I reuse mine.
I attempted to re-use mine, but felt them stretching when I was torquing down the head after the rebuild. I also felt a couple of the crank bolts stretching. All were replaced. After over 50 years it is a minimal expense.
Whelp, we are now going forward with the rear wheel bearing replacement. Following retorquing the large nut on for the stub axle, the wheel bearings in the driver's side were not operating smoothly. Rotating action on the wheel hub was rough sounding and feeling as it were "catching"
Only upside here was that I had rear bearing already sitting on part parts bin. Bearing seals on order today...Wish me luck.
Only upside here was that I had rear bearing already sitting on part parts bin. Bearing seals on order today...Wish me luck.
Did you, by chance try the hammer method of removal before just re-tightening them?
If so, then, per my post above hammering on the axle is likely to ruin the bearings. Not a big deal if you are replacing them, but definitely a problem if you try to reuse them
i used a bearing driver - snap on 1257-1 handle and 2 discs - small one is 59.5 mm / 56.5 mm (they are stepped) and the larger one is 72.5 mm / 75.5 mm. i bought these years ago when i changed the rear bearing on my e3. as i remember, i drove the little one out with just the handle ... and then used the small disc thru the hub to drive out the big bearing. the big disc was used to set the big bearing.
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With the larger spacer sleeve still in the bore between the two bearings. How would you get a tool like that in there from behind to knock out one of them?
I think I used a drift pin to tap the little bearing out and the hub is bigger than the handle and I think I used the handle to knock the big bearing out. It’s been a number of years since I did this
Easy peasy. Just drive them out using your favorite piece of steel.
In my car they came out really well. Tap gently, and replace the driver to a different position after every blow - as if it's a clock; tap once on 3 o'clock then 9, then 6 and 12 and continue untill you feel/see it moving. If it skews and locks itself, then hammer it back to a neutral (parallel to seating face ) position.
Note the order and orientation of the two distance parts
In my car they came out really well. Tap gently, and replace the driver to a different position after every blow - as if it's a clock; tap once on 3 o'clock then 9, then 6 and 12 and continue untill you feel/see it moving. If it skews and locks itself, then hammer it back to a neutral (parallel to seating face ) position.
Note the order and orientation of the two distance parts
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Thanks @eriknetherlands this is helpful. Is there a certain order for reinstall?
Suspicions confirmed then... Brinelling is real...
Please post pics and descriptions f your journey. I would love to pull the rear hubs apart, replace the bearings and replace the battered brake plates. If the job is feasible, I'd rather do the complete job than cheat out that last bit..
For sure is real. Only replacing the bearings for the side I screwed up.
Need to get a move on with this phase of the project. The rally event I'm hosting is in 2 mo and I still need to refresh the trans seals and do the clutch, and engine mounts.
Need to get a move on with this phase of the project. The rally event I'm hosting is in 2 mo and I still need to refresh the trans seals and do the clutch, and engine mounts.
Reverse of removal. Pretty straight forward. The installation needs a bit more care compared to the removal, so i used a threaded section, m8 or m10 I believe with large washers to pull the bearings in place.
Benefit of using the threaded section is that the bearings never go in sideways, so they don't get stuck in the wrong place.
I think you have convinced me that this is a doable project, and the fact that I can then powder coat the rear brake plates and swing arms is a plus!!
Heading over Tuesday to pick up the subframes and suspension bits, so I'll start this in a few weeks!!
