Removing wire connectors from D-jet wiring harness plugs

BMW3.0CSi

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Hi all,

Sounds stupid maybe, but I need some help or tips/tricks to get the connectors of the wiring harness out of the plug. To me it looks like its impossible because there is a kind of stamp on the backside of all plugs. I've tried several with a needle to press on the front side of the connector, but by doing that it looks like the backside is blocked by the stamp on the backside. The only connectors I can remove are from the pump relay, because it has no stamps. Any idea's/experience with these plugs? I want to remove them because I want to renew the rubber protection caps.
IMG_1661v1.jpg


Pictures below shows the stamp and for that reason the connector is blocked in my opinion.
IMG_1662v1.jpg



Difficult to see on the picture, but looking at the connector and plug from the side shows that it looks like the connector is blocked by the stamp on the plug.
IMG_1664v1.jpg


Thanks for help.
 

Honolulu

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When the wires are inserted into the plastic connectors are inserted there is a tab that is depressed, only to spring back up when the wire is fully seated. Like you, I've attacked with a needle or similar and been mostly able to depress the tab, but it's finicky work.

Round connectors, unlike those used on coupes, use several sizes of thin tubular "Molex" tools to depress the tabs for removal. Perhaps looking at illustrations of their use will be helpful.

If you have one to destructively investigate, it would become clearer how these things go together.
 

sfdon

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Because those connector sets are so cheap and most damage is to the wire and insulation right at the connector, I replace every one when I re-boot d-jet harnesses. Just cut off, slide on boot, strip, crimp and insert. Either order from Finland (45.00 for 30 connector sets or me (3.00 each) or Walloth.
Beware buying real Bosch boots - they run $30.00 EACH!
 

BMW3.0CSi

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When the wires are inserted into the plastic connectors are inserted there is a tab that is depressed, only to spring back up when the wire is fully seated. Like you, I've attacked with a needle or similar and been mostly able to depress the tab, but it's finicky work.

Round connectors, unlike those used on coupes, use several sizes of thin tubular "Molex" tools to depress the tabs for removal. Perhaps looking at illustrations of their use will be helpful.

If you have one to destructively investigate, it would become clearer how these things go together.

I’ve got a spare wiring harness and made one of the injector plugs ‘open’ as you mentioned Honolulu. See the picture below, it shows that it’s impossible to get the connectors out. From above it’s locked with the stamp and below with the spring of the connector. The spring you can press, but for the stamp there is nothing to do. You have to cut all plugs open to be able to change the rubber caps or connectors. Or you can of course cut the wires and put on new connectors. ;)

8B9375A4-8226-4208-B65D-FA031D85AEEE.png
 

Honolulu

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Are these plugs traceable to the manufacturer? Decades beyond production, sure, but some stuff is still out there. Amp connectors, or Amphenol was one of the providers. The plug may have other traceable names.
 

Willem Tell

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Those plugs get crimped with some kind of heated or specially shaped crimper after the leads are inserted (same on an MBZ). They cannot be released, they have to be cut away. I cut the plastic to release the leads and just simply clean and insert the leads into new plastic plugs.

Here is another alternative kit at a reasonable price (less the large diameter cable sleeves).

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I like that Finjector sells individual pieces at a great price!
 
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