rsporsche - 2800cs

Singer safety….
 

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a ha ... in the meantime, i found cascade audio engineering, who makes vb-1x and i asked about buying a gallon. they are in houma, ... so lets see what they have to say. don't need to buy 5 gallons for 1 car.
 
ok ... missed that part. i already bought a couple of boxes of dynamat (18" x 18") - so it will be going on. painting with a brush would be easier, wish i had talked to you before i bought the stuff. i guess i could sell the dynamat - or at least the unopened box (or even return it to Amazon). painting would be much easier in the back seat for sure ... and i haven't bought dynamat for that area. after sound insulation, i am planning to put dynaliner thermal insulation on - especially tranny tunnel, firewall and the main floors.

many thanks Barney - i am very happy with the color.

good to know, i haven't done that job before ... will make sure i have somebody around to help when i decide to tackle that job.


We use all the products, rust stop, primer, sound deadened and dynamat.
 
a ha ... in the meantime, i found cascade audio engineering, who makes vb-1x and i asked about buying a gallon. they are in houma, ... so lets see what they have to say. don't need to buy 5 gallons for 1 car.
You need 2 gallons
 
my trunk is already done. does that include the inside of the doors / rear windows? good to know - thx!
 
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If you are returning anything to Amazon check the return date. They are tightening up, shorter return window. Also making it difficult to navigate the return screen.

Free is shrinking like our candy bars.
 
I used a layering approach with several products all from a firm called second skin.
What about paint the roof with the thermal insulation coat?
 
that would be a good idea IF you have to remove the headliner. i didn't want to take mine out for fear of damaging it. originally i was going to put 1/2" of dynaliner thermal insulation up there.
 
I sprayed my top with the sound deadening. Truthfully I thought I’d get more of a thud when gently whacking the roof..., but it is noticeably better.

I’ve heard too many stories about mats falling from the roofs to do that.
 
if i was taking the headliner off, i would use sound coating and add thermal insulation pad above the headliner. the mat is self adhesive and the bars on the headliner will keep it above the headliner.
 
if i was taking the headliner off, i would use sound coating and add thermal insulation pad above the headliner. the mat is self adhesive and the bars on the headliner will keep it above the headliner.
And with the headliner off you could put in the metal blocks for retracting shoulder harnesses.
 
if i was taking the headliner off, i would use sound coating and add thermal insulation pad above the headliner. the mat is self adhesive and the bars on the headliner will keep it above the headliner.
I agree with this. The spray will adhere and provide deadening, but a lighter insulation layer will be unlikely to fall off and still offer significant thermal insulation.

Sound deadening and thermal insulation are sort of mutually exclusive. Deadening requires mass and density, and this is generally thermally conductive.
 
Lizard Skin is another product that I used. Sprays on nicely - it does not generate a fine mist so is less likely to overspray onto your exterior. I used some additional dynamite here and there and built up the floor using layers to even the surface out for the carpet to lay upon. Like Don said - make sure to mask off any tabs, bolt holes, etc, as the stuff will fill them or add thickness that makes attaching gaskets etc. not work very well. I missed the raised mounting holes on the hat board. With the extra thickness of insulation the plastic clips on the bottom of the hat board would not engage the holes in the sheet metal holes.
 

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