That’s the bleeder that I have, and it has been great. The clear pressure line must be too old and ruptured, dumping a bunch of brake fluid…replacement is on the way.
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Transmission swap and engine compartment refresh Winter 2023-2024
- Thread starter boonies
- Start date
Bleeder parts came in and I replaced all the old hoses. Brakes and clutch bled and seem (on the lift) to be good.
Installed the UCC short shifter today and the new M5 guibo and new drive shaft from drive shaft pro's. Once all that was in place I started to install the shift platform bracing that was part of the Coupe King kit.
The problem I am finding with the brace is that it is touching the driveshaft when I try to use the approach shown on their site (pictures from their site first, then my pictures. Has anyone else run into this? If so, how did you solve? I am thinking that I may need to mount the shift platform to the transmission tunnel rather than use their brace.
Coupe King pictures (2)
My pictures:
Installed the UCC short shifter today and the new M5 guibo and new drive shaft from drive shaft pro's. Once all that was in place I started to install the shift platform bracing that was part of the Coupe King kit.
The problem I am finding with the brace is that it is touching the driveshaft when I try to use the approach shown on their site (pictures from their site first, then my pictures. Has anyone else run into this? If so, how did you solve? I am thinking that I may need to mount the shift platform to the transmission tunnel rather than use their brace.
Coupe King pictures (2)
My pictures:
Attachments
I would eliminate the shift tower support piece and secure the tower to the tunnel with a smaller version isolator similar to one of the tranny mounts.
Thanks Steve, that seems logical given the fit.
Look in the CK photo at the end of the brace that is touching your driveshaft. The CK brace has a very short 'foot' that rises right away towards the top of mount. The photo of your part has a much longer foot, pushing the middle of the brace against the drive shaft. I'm surprised they didn't make the foot face the other way for much greater clearance.
You could weld up the old hole and drill a new one closer the bend to move the brace away. You could also bend the middle of the brace away from the drive shaft a bit and perhaps add a short vertical piece along it's length to stiffen it a bit.
It also looks like there might be the possibility to adjust the tab that is bolted to the transmission that holds the bottom of the brace so that the bottom of the brace is further away from the drive shaft. I'd hope there is some feature of that tab that locks against the transmission to keep it from moving rather that rely only on the tightness of the nut and bolt to keep it in place. (Some sort of finger or L shape perhaps)
Of course, you could query CK about this fit issue as well and perhaps get a better part.
You could weld up the old hole and drill a new one closer the bend to move the brace away. You could also bend the middle of the brace away from the drive shaft a bit and perhaps add a short vertical piece along it's length to stiffen it a bit.
It also looks like there might be the possibility to adjust the tab that is bolted to the transmission that holds the bottom of the brace so that the bottom of the brace is further away from the drive shaft. I'd hope there is some feature of that tab that locks against the transmission to keep it from moving rather that rely only on the tightness of the nut and bolt to keep it in place. (Some sort of finger or L shape perhaps)
Of course, you could query CK about this fit issue as well and perhaps get a better part.
I will grab some pictures of the part that attaches to the transmission. There is a small locating pin that is to the rear of the bolt that aligns with the slot for the transmission mount, thus fixing the position of the mounting tab.
I do plan on reaching out the Coupe King directly, but in the meanwhile I am using a rubber transmission style mount to fix the rear of the shift platform to the transmission tunnel. I am anxious to get the car off the lift and out to the exhaust shop this week if possible to get a small bit of work needed to connect the headers to the stainless exhaust.
I do plan on reaching out the Coupe King directly, but in the meanwhile I am using a rubber transmission style mount to fix the rear of the shift platform to the transmission tunnel. I am anxious to get the car off the lift and out to the exhaust shop this week if possible to get a small bit of work needed to connect the headers to the stainless exhaust.
Chasing down gremlins today.
I am searching for an oil light holder after breaking a tab while looking for reasons why the oil light was not lit. I swapped a Mechanical pressure gauge in place and had ~80 psi after cranking for a bit. Good thing I used assembly lube in the engine.
I did get the engine to light off after the oil pressure built, but more work to do there before I can run it in properly. It was running badly and I did not have full dash lights so assumed I might have a grounding issue and proceeded to dig in.
I checked grounds in various places and was pleased that there were not issues when checking at at shock towers (nearest to battery attachment point), ground strap at rear of engine, and interior under dash.
I did find a power problem at the fuse block though. I have un-switched power at fuse 4 & 5 as expected, and have switched power at 5 and above, but no power at 1-3. All the connections at the back of the fuse block are in place so now hunting to see if I missed a connection.
Suggestions are welcome while I spend some quality time under the dash and beyond...
I am searching for an oil light holder after breaking a tab while looking for reasons why the oil light was not lit. I swapped a Mechanical pressure gauge in place and had ~80 psi after cranking for a bit. Good thing I used assembly lube in the engine.
I did get the engine to light off after the oil pressure built, but more work to do there before I can run it in properly. It was running badly and I did not have full dash lights so assumed I might have a grounding issue and proceeded to dig in.
I checked grounds in various places and was pleased that there were not issues when checking at at shock towers (nearest to battery attachment point), ground strap at rear of engine, and interior under dash.
I did find a power problem at the fuse block though. I have un-switched power at fuse 4 & 5 as expected, and have switched power at 5 and above, but no power at 1-3. All the connections at the back of the fuse block are in place so now hunting to see if I missed a connection.
Suggestions are welcome while I spend some quality time under the dash and beyond...
A full day of towing to and from the exhaust shop. It runs, but I have not had time to do any refining. Ordered an accelerator pump as one of mine is now leaking and I have some work to do on the tune.
Exhaust is now connected to the H&B headers and I was able to drive it down the long steep driveway to put it on the trailer this morning and reverse the process once finished this afternoon.
I am heading out for a weekend to visit my daughter in Richmond VA and some family in No. VA, but will be back at it on Monday.
One of the first goals is to figure out why I have no power to any of the gauges. At this time I don't have lights nor alternator or temperature indication. All fuses have power and grounds seem to be okay (earlier post).
Exhaust is now connected to the H&B headers and I was able to drive it down the long steep driveway to put it on the trailer this morning and reverse the process once finished this afternoon.
I am heading out for a weekend to visit my daughter in Richmond VA and some family in No. VA, but will be back at it on Monday.
One of the first goals is to figure out why I have no power to any of the gauges. At this time I don't have lights nor alternator or temperature indication. All fuses have power and grounds seem to be okay (earlier post).
Did you align the driveshaft with the tranny flange?
I was looking at it while the car was on the lift at the muffler shop. That will be one of the to-do's when I am back to it next week.
Wow, what a project! I'm so envious, I really, really need to do this to my '74.
I assumed that the problem with the gauge electrics was something that I must have caused when re-wrapping the wiring loom. After checking all the dash cluster plugs with the endoscope (all were good) I loosened the fuse block (again) and this time I found a factory spade connection of the correct color (green with white dashes) had come off. Progress made as both the oil and coolant temperature now have power.
I am making do, for now, with an imperfect replacement (below) for the oil pressure warning lamp holder. These are a little too large for the lamp opening, but will do for now as I try other options or find an original type replacement.
I am making do, for now, with an imperfect replacement (below) for the oil pressure warning lamp holder. These are a little too large for the lamp opening, but will do for now as I try other options or find an original type replacement.
Thanks Bill, plenty of challenges along the way and a few things I would do differently next time! Let me know when you are ready for the engine stand!
Great work (and a lot of it). I have a box of assorted instrument bulb holders - send me the diameter size and maybe a picture and will be happy to send you one.
Installed the Classic 9 Leather shop hood insulation today and then my son helped me to install the hood. He had to move on so my patient spouse helped me to make some adjustments. It isn't perfect, but it is a "hand built car," right?
Also very happy to see the oil pressure light and tachometer working!
Also very happy to see the oil pressure light and tachometer working!
Attachments
@2000CS thanks for looking at your stash for a bulb holder. Here is a picture with some measurements. note that the measurement on the barrel is taken between the ribs that are there to keep the holder in place.
Shifter mount adjustments completed today and the surround is back together. Also did a quick adjustment to the toe-out on the wheels so it will be ready to take in for an alignment later this week.
Still have to finish putting together the lower dash panel
Still have to finish putting together the lower dash panel
Finally...first drive today!
I finished a couple of items that have been on the list and put the air filter in place (pictures later) and had a few minutes left at the end of the afternoon and rolled it off the ramps and onto the road for a 15 minute drive around the neighborhood.
I kept the rev's under 4k and am very pleased with the power which really starts to come on around 3k RPM. I am need to get the car in for an alignment before I do too much more driving, so that will be one of the next items on the list.
I finished a couple of items that have been on the list and put the air filter in place (pictures later) and had a few minutes left at the end of the afternoon and rolled it off the ramps and onto the road for a 15 minute drive around the neighborhood.
I kept the rev's under 4k and am very pleased with the power which really starts to come on around 3k RPM. I am need to get the car in for an alignment before I do too much more driving, so that will be one of the next items on the list.
Picture update with air cleaner and new hood insulation in place. Working today on replacing the weather stripping. The old weather stripping was so ragged that a gale blew through the car when I drove at any speed. I know that I will need to adjust the passenger side door and window as that has never been smooth.
tdgray
Well-Known Member
What a beauty