Thanks for sharing your experience. That was exactly my worry too, so it is good to hear that you were able to make the intermediate plate work. I have already checked the rest of the tolerances and confirmed that the bleed hole is clear.
Transmission swap and engine compartment refresh Winter 2023-2024
- Thread starter boonies
- Start date
Another unwelcome surprise.
Torquing down the main bearing caps today and something felt off. Glad I stopped and backed out the bolts. The bolt on the right is fine and was torquing normally, the other two...well you can see where they were stretching under load. The threads were oiled prior to installation and I had not noticed any deformity at that time.
New main bearing cap bolts have been ordered. I had already ordered new head bolts, so all should be ready to go there.
Torquing down the main bearing caps today and something felt off. Glad I stopped and backed out the bolts. The bolt on the right is fine and was torquing normally, the other two...well you can see where they were stretching under load. The threads were oiled prior to installation and I had not noticed any deformity at that time.
New main bearing cap bolts have been ordered. I had already ordered new head bolts, so all should be ready to go there.
- Main and rod bearings installed with assembly lube, new 10.9 main cap bolts sourced from McMaster-Carr.
- A NOS oil pump gear was sourced from eBay and installed along with the intermediate plate discussed above. I was considering using safety wire on bolts that attach the gear to the pump, but have cleaned them thoroughly then used locktite cleaner and blue locktite to secure them.
- Installed the rear main seal
- installed the head with new head bolts (two were missing from the order and are now on the way) and the timing chain assembly. I had forgotten to order the timing chain tensioner piston so that is now on the way from Bimmerworld along with the gasket for the heater hose fitting on the back of the head which was not in the gasket set.
I suggest using some Hylomar or Dirko on those 2 rear head gaskets (duck & coolant return) so they don't ever leak in the future (inaccessible when motor is in).
Thanks @Stevehose , your comment is helpful (as always). I have so many sealants in the cabinet...was considering a non-setting type.
I have the Reinzoplast (and Reinzozil) and was considering that. I am curious what others use with their gaskets. On the rear main and the front case I used some gasket shelac to hold the gasket in place on one surface, then coated the other side of the gasket with Reinzoplast to form a good seal. What did you use on the oil pan gasket?
I have the Reinzoplast (and Reinzozil) and was considering that. I am curious what others use with their gaskets. On the rear main and the front case I used some gasket shelac to hold the gasket in place on one surface, then coated the other side of the gasket with Reinzoplast to form a good seal. What did you use on the oil pan gasket?
I'm not familiar with these but Reinzoplast appears similar to Hylomar and Reinzoil appears similar to Dirko. I use them depending on application. If I am likely to remove it and the tolerances between the 2 pieces are close, I will use Hylomar (the UK made stuff, not the USA version). If I need something that fills gaps more and sets I will use Dirko (like the 2 spots on the upper timing cover where it meets the head gasket). Dirko needs to be applied VERY sparingly because it will ooze out when tightened, and it dries quickly so not the easist to get on thinly. I had a section of my valve cover gasket that was leaking a little, I put a very thin layer of Hylomar on it and no more leak but I can remove and replace the cover without adding more Hylomar.
I've used both Dirko and Hylomar for the oil pan gasket and I think Hylomar is easier to work with and get thin (both sides) on such a large piece. And if any oozes out it can be wiped off anytime later with a rag and acetone.
I've used both Dirko and Hylomar for the oil pan gasket and I think Hylomar is easier to work with and get thin (both sides) on such a large piece. And if any oozes out it can be wiped off anytime later with a rag and acetone.
Engine is in with the help of my son a couple of weeks ago. Accessories (PS pump, new sanden style A/C compressor, new style water pump, clutch fan and cooling fan are all attached. The oil bar is also installed with the banjo mounting bolts drilled and safety wired to prevent them from backing out.
The Clutch along with the bell housing are installed, the Getrag 5 speed will go in next week as I am waiting for some gear oil to mix with the Redline MTL that is already in. The driveshaft should arrive next week as well.
There is still a bunch to do, but making solid progress.
The Clutch along with the bell housing are installed, the Getrag 5 speed will go in next week as I am waiting for some gear oil to mix with the Redline MTL that is already in. The driveshaft should arrive next week as well.
There is still a bunch to do, but making solid progress.
Arrow pointing forward?
all right Steve, you better clue me in on the arrow!
I’m traveling sans computer at the moment so can’t post the pic but check the repair manual section on the oil bar install, there is a little arrow stamped into the spray bar that points forward, otherwise oil starvation will happen.
Thanks guys, the arrow is now going in the right direction!
tdgray
Well-Known Member
Great info… I would have overlooked that for sure