Triple Weber Rebuild

[Stevehose]

Yes Korman sells the modified Tstat housing for their manifold.

You can get a different fuel inlet or modify the existing one. It's Weber part number 10536.215:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-WEBER-CAR...ash=item33abb8ea91:g:IbwAAOSwAYtWLxxf&vxp=mtr

Or just change it back.

Maybe hose #9 here will work, or you could measure the diameters of the tee and the heater core oulet and look for a suitable hose in the Gates catalogue, that's what I did when doing the heater bypass valve:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=5374-USA-03-1985-E24-BMW-635CSi&diagId=64_0091

http://www.gates.com/catalogs-and-resources/catalogs

 

[COUPE9]

Thanks guys... ...shortly after posting, I thought "I've got the Korman manifold, SURELY they've had this problem, I wonder if THEY have a custom t-stat housing"... ...sure enough, they did, and it's already on order.

With all of the parts I've ordered, it feels like I'm going to have a whole new engine by the time this conversion is over with.

I think (for now), I'll swap the fuel line direction back to the way Mario had it... ...route everything up along the driver wheel well, and loop around to the front carb.

Thanks for the additional "leads" on where to get a hose... ...we'll see what I finally settle on.

Alright, carrying on... ...wish me luck!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Ohmess]

Hi Brandon -- I went back and looked at my invoices; prior to installing the bypass I used hose 64-21-1-361-180 in that position.

 

[COUPE9]

SO close, but need wiring help...

Okay, so while I wait on the "custom" T-stat housing (from Korman), I'm getting closer on everything else.

The only thing I need help on, is wiring the Carter 4070 pump. I've read earlier threads, but am stumped as to how to do this.

In terms of the "plumbing", per suggestions, I've decided to locate the pump at the back of the car (near spare tire)... ...from gas tank, thru fuel filter, thru pump, thru regulator, and into the hard line (in the trunk)... ...hard line turns into hose at fire wall, and will head into the front carb (with a fuel pressure gauge in there somewhere).

Okay, back to wiring. I am trying to figure out / find the EASIEST source to pull power from / tap into... ..the connector where the relay (from the Zeniths) used to plug into does not register any voltage when the key is on auxiliary.

Oooo, let's start there... ...when do I want the fuel pump to kick on? At auxilary? Or when the starter starts cranking? I would assume the latter, so that I'm not pumping fuel while simply listening to the radio or something.

Alright, if you have pictures (since I'm a visual-type of person) of how to hook this up, that would be preferred. I'm a BEGINNER at automotive wiring... ...house wiring, I get... ...automotive wiring is Greek to me.

 

[Stevehose]

I highly recommend this:

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

It solves all your issues, it is easy to wire, prevents the pump from running when the engine is not turning, and will prime the carbs for 3 seconds when the key is turned. It prevents fuel from pouring out when engine is not running as well as provides power and relay protection to the pump. On the site you can download the install instructions and check it out.

If you install the pump in the trunk it will likely be quite loud, the trunk cavity will amplify the whirring noise. Just sayin'. Mine is mounted under the car to a differential bolt with rubber isolators, I can barely hear it at idle with the windows open, not at all with them closed. Plus with the pump low in the fuel path I never get a vapor lock.

 

[Ohmess]

I highly recommend this:

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

It solves all your issues, it is easy to wire, prevents the pump from running when the engine is not turning, and will prime the carbs for 3 seconds when the key is turned. It prevents fuel from pouring out when engine is not running as well as provides power and relay protection to the pump. On the site you can download the install instructions and check it out.

If you install the pump in the trunk it will likely be quite loud, the trunk cavity will amplify the whirring noise. Just sayin'. Mine is mounted under the car to a differential bolt with rubber isolators, I can barely hear it at idle with the windows open, not at all with them closed. Plus with the pump low in the fuel path I never get a vapor lock.

I too used one of these controller, and mounted my fuel pump to the rear subframe using an isolation mount. I had previously run switched power to the area underneath the rear seats to power the sensors for my seat belts so I used that for the switched power to the revolution controller. You want to tap into fuses 6 and 7 for this, avoiding the light circuits and the circuits subject to the load shedding relay (fuses 8 and 9). The controller has a relay built into it, so the switched power draw is very small. With the relay, the controller needs unswitched power as well. For this, I ran a line off the battery, through the right frame rail to the area right in front of the passenger seat, and then to the area under the rear seat where my controller is installed. I also needed to run a line to the distributor along this same path which the controller uses to determine if the car is running.

I believe Steve's controller is located in the engine bay, which makes locating switched power, unswitched power and distributor line easier. Obviously, he then needed to run the actual power wire for the pump to the rear of the car.

This setup turns on with switched power, pumps three seconds of fuel into the carbs to fill the bowls each time, and importantly, shuts off when the engine stops running. If you go with straight switched power and no controller, you run the risk in an accident of having the pump cranking out fuel without the engine running.

 

[Stevehose]

And I also installed the diode per the instructions. I hid the controller in an old speed controller box with shrinkwrapped wires, and run the power lines out of sight under the front clip/over the headlights to the battery. The other wire goes into the firewall and under the carpet to the trunk spare wheel well then to the pump along with the fuel hoses. One of these days I will put an impact cutoff switch in the circuit as well.

Controller hidden in right side box, the blue wire is the 123 distributor ground:

Ventilation holes:

 

[rodspock]

Here is a possible solution to your weber carburettor to thermostat housing contact issue.

I had a 53mm block of aluminium water jet cut in the shape of the thermostat housing gasket, put long studs in and fixed that problem. One of the cooling hoses needs to be cut short, and the other lengthened.

See the attached picture -works fine. I have the CAD file somewhere if you would like it.

Rod

 

[COUPE9]

It's alive!!!

Well, tonight, I FINALLY got everything hooked up and did a test fire... ...I didn't run it long, because I'm still waiting on my custom t-stat housing from Korman (arriving Friday), but I ran it long enough to make sure everything works.

I want to thank everyone for their input and help, as I wouldn't have been able to do this without you guys! Love this forum!!

Also, I didn't do everything exactly as "recommended", but as with everything (on our E9's), everyone has their own "spin" on the way things should be done.

I look forward to meeting as many of you as possible this August in Monterey, and talking over my car (as well as all of yours) to see the various "spins" you took.

Thanks again!!

 

[bluecoupe30!]

It"s alive....

Congrats Brandon!
But did you sleep at all? Now the real countdown to May 15, 100th and all that cake at LeMay, officially starts.
Mike

 

[Ohmess]

Congratulations! I had my car running two weeks ago, then pulled it apart again chasing a vacuum leak. I hope to button it up today and get back at tuning my carbs.

In the interim, I have been watching utube videos of cars with Weber carbs -- Alfas, BMWs, Ferraris, etc. -- listening to the different versions of induction noise!

 

[Stevehose]

Hah I've done this in the past also, I think I've seen them all!

The sound never gets old.

I have been watching utube videos of cars with Weber carbs -- Alfas, BMWs, Ferraris, etc. -- listening to the different versions of induction noise!

 

[COUPE9]

Making the trek down to Monterey in five (5) weeks with the triples... ...anyone else with triples going to be there? Would love to discuss / learn / critique engine bays.

 

[Ohmess]

Well, I am not sure my engine bay is ready to be critiqued, but I will be in attendance.

 

[Markos]

Making the trek down to Monterey in five (5) weeks with the triples... ...anyone else with triples going to be there? Would love to discuss / learn / critique engine bays.

Hi Brandon,

Congrats on the install. I picked up a set of triples myself and will surely be looking for your local expertise when the time comes. i need to flush all my fluids and replace my fuel lines (and brake lines) before installing though. Oh and I need to completely part out an E9.

Does anyone know if the modified T-Stat is required for the three piece manifolds?

 

[Stevehose]

Most likely yes

Does anyone know if the modified T-Stat is required for the three piece manifolds?

 

[Markos]

Most likely yes

Good info. I should probably do this with the coolant flush then and save myself a mess later. I promised my wife I wouldn't flush coolant in the garage anymore, but that was before I put down an epoxy floor.

 

[Ohmess]

Yes, its nice not to have whatever you spill soak into the concrete. The downside of the epoxy, however, is that whatever you spill you have to wipe up. Otherwise, it stays there forever.

And I am almost positive you want to change the tstat housing.

Also, check the inside of the gas tank. Mine had rust inside it, and it was a royal pain in the ass getting it cleaned up.