Weber 32/36's - can't figure it out!

dang

dang

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Put 32/36's on my E3 and the car runs okay but it's running rough and stinks. Is this typically handled through jetting? I don't think timing changes air/fuel much at all. What should I look for? I haven't looked to see what jets or air adjusters it has and I'm basically running a sea level.

Ideas?
 
I think I've got good jet and air #s from the west coast weber guru if you end up digging further.
 
Stevehose said:
did you turn in the mixture screws to the bottom then back out about 1 1/4 turns?
Click to expand...
I can't remember where they're at. I followed the setup instructions for idle mixture and speed but don't remember where they ended up.
 
dang said:
Put 32/36's on my E3 and the car runs pretty darn good, but it's running so rich the exhaust burns my eyes and stinks. Is this typically handled through jetting? .

Ideas?
Click to expand...
Richness can be caused by any combination of: tuning, jetting, mechanical faults
(1) did you go through the standard tuning process (Weber manual)? If not, do this first.

(2) did you note down the “jetting” of the carbs? This is needed to start comparing your setup to one’s known to work well

(3) IMHO, you don’t need to check your carbs for mechanical faults until you’ve done #1 and #2
 
bfeng said:
Richness can be caused by any combination of: tuning, jetting, mechanical faults
(1) did you go through the standard tuning process (Weber manual)? If not, do this first.

(2) did you note down the “jetting” of the carbs? This is needed to start comparing your setup to one’s known to work well

(3) IMHO, you don’t need to check your carbs for mechanical faults until you’ve done #1 and #2
Click to expand...
I didn't note the jetting sizes when I had them apart. I can take them apart and see where I'm at to start with but I wanted to make sure jetting is what I should be working on first.
 
First thing to check is your choke, or "starting throttle valve." With the car warmed up at idle, the plate/valve (number 5 in the diagram) should be open. If this is a problem, you need to tell us which 32/36 you have. I had DGAVs in my car, which had a mechanism that used coolant temperature to open the valve number 5. There is also a version with an electric mechanism.

Assuming your choke is not stuck, identify your idle jet. You don't need to take the carb apart to do this.

Start by finding the idle jet holder screw, pull it out and write down the size of your idle jet. These are on the side of the carb toward the base. (I have forgotten whether the orientation is fore/aft or left/right). See number 35 on this diagram. The idle jet is number 33, pressed into the screw 35. When you remove the screw the idle jet will come out with it. Make sure you have the o-rings shown in the diagram.

 
I replaced the coolant housing with an electric housing and they chokes seem to open up fine. I'll double check though. I didn't know the idle jet was located there. I'll get the number off of it.
 
Good news on the chokes. Make sure they are perpendicular to the throat.

Also, just to double check, when you say the carbs were used, do you know if they were previously used on a BMW m30 engine? If they were used on another engine, you may need to start from the beginning with your tuning.
 
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