What did you do to your E9 today?

using Motul 20-50 and parts from Wallothnesch; changed oil & filter & fuel filter for the first time since delivery in January...and the car still runs! oil was really black and somewhat thick inside the filter housing...learned as I went...had car on lift; realized a bolt bottom oil housing does not come out from the bottom of the car. Lowered the car and wiggled it out from the top...re-installed from top with internal parts - lifted the car again to re-install from bottom. I didn't want to get into removing the bracket for the filter...Next up; changing plugs and coolant. Any advise for plug gap on a 73' CSi would be appreciated.
 
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Very happy with this 380mm Petri I had installed. Feels better for me than the 400mm, which I also tried.
 

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Barry.b said:
I started to strip my RC090’s
I have all 5 completely taken apart, I have started down the road of refurbing them.
I think I’ll actually send the barrels/ rims off to be metal polished.
I don’t think I have the patience for polishing rims myself, I think , I do change my mind a bit on that.
I normally do my own work, but I might make an exception this time.
I have been quoted €75 per rim to mirror polish them , and at home I think I can’t match the finish that the polisher promises so I think it’s a no brainer really.
I have ordered 170 new bolts and 170 new nuts , new valves new centering rings and I am planning on sandblasting the cast centers and etch priming them and spray painting them myself then rebuilding them .
Click to expand...
I got my rims back from being polished and I am delighted with the finish , I could never have gotten them that good myself.
He took some photos of the work in progress too.
 

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Hello Barry,
Those wheels look amazing, I'm just glad that they didn't get damaged, Take a look at picture no. 3, the jaws on the chuck are almost all the way out and if you think how fast it needs to turn to get them polished, Very scary.
Regards
 
Ref. Stan's E28 rear window motors: The BMW CCCA Florida tour a few weeks ago had a 1988 M5 as one of the cars. I wanted to see how the E28 motors in my windows performed compared to the motors in his back windows. The result--they both went up and down at the same speed.
 
Out with the old rusty pos mufflers held together with JB Weld and POR-15 paint:

IMG_1305.jpg



In with the new W&N stainless, sounds great, it's also significantly lighter:

IMG_1298.jpg



A lot of time spent getting the rear tail pipe piece to line up correctly, I had to heat and bend it so it would curve towards the hole correctly, it bugs me if the pipe isn't centered with the opening:

IMG_1300.jpg



Bought a new yellow zinc pipe clamp from BMW:

IMG_1302.jpg


I could stand it a little louder but all in all I love it, nice burble at idle and not annoying at speed.
 

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Stevehose said:
Out with the old rusty pos mufflers held together with JB Weld and POR-15 paint:

View attachment 138357


In with the new W&N stainless, sounds great, it's also significantly lighter:

View attachment 138358


A lot of time spent getting the rear tail pipe piece to line up correctly, I had to heat and bend it so it would curve towards the hole correctly, it bugs me if the pipe isn't centered with the opening:

View attachment 138359


Bought a new yellow zinc pipe clamp from BMW:

View attachment 138361

I could stand it a little louder but all in all I love it, nice burble at idle and not annoying at speed. I'd be happy to sell my tail pipe and down pipes cheap to someone in need, they are in good shape, the downpipes were recently bead blasted and coated with POR-15 grey exhaust paint and the tail pipe piece would clean up nicely, I think they are unobtanium these days.
Click to expand...
Looks very nice!
 
Boonies said:
Looks very nice!
Click to expand...
Thanks I may raise the exhaust tip a 1/2" or so, it's as high as it can go with the oem rubber hanger there, I'd have to slot the holes to allow it to slide higher up and pull the exhaust pipe with it. But good enough for now.
 
coupedegrace said:
Yes, all of the fasteners were tamper-resitant torx bolts, but one that was a 6mm hex key. The shield came with the driver for the torx. I'd never used tamper-resistant ones. Worked really well. I think the one hex key was because they couldn't get a long enough bolt with the torx head. It was several inches long.
Click to expand...
AND YOU CAN DO YOUR BRAKES!-)

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You think it will never happen, but it has .... the last of the welding is done!

With the underside cleaned up I spotted the start of a couple of small cracks around the diff mount, so that's been beefed up with a couple of webs, and that's it.

I've probably got off pretty lightly parts-wise, just needing front wing mounting rails, front floor pans, outer sills both sides, right hand central sill membrane and A and B-post bottoms (curiously the LH side was much better and these didn't need replacing), spare wheel well, right hand rear wing lower corner and a pair of rear wing repair panels.
 

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