WTB--Lug studs from an E3/Bavaria that are at least 1 3/4" long

[Drew Gregg]

Thanks! I bought mine that way. The only bummer is that they were powder coated. You lose all of the fidelity around the part numbers, offset etc with powder. In general, I'm not a fan. I powder coated my Weds however since there is nothing meaningful in the lug area. In general, wheel shops are expensive. You can't get a good polish on your BBS without screwing up the paint. You are looking at about $200 a wheel to refinish them. Honestly I think they look great as-is.

One thing you can do is have the lips machined. You can't do it though if the wheels are out-of-round. These are pics from a buddy in Seattle...

View attachment 59474
View attachment 59472
View attachment 59473

I think the guy in Texas paints the centers after mirror polishing the rims. Then they get a clear coat. Here's the pic of the wheels on the passenger side w/o tires.

 

[Ajay]

I think the guy in Texas paints the centers after mirror polishing the rims. Then they get a clear coat. Here's the pic of the wheels on the passenger side w/o tires.

Beautiful car and nice color combination.

 

[Markos]

Markos--I test fitted the BBS on my stock hubs. The studs barely let me screw on the OEM tapered lug nuts. The stud was 16/32" short in the front and 13/32" short in the rear. I measured the depth with a tire tread gage. So I need 1/2" longer studs. Or can I use these extra thread lug nuts you have pictured? Where do I buy them? Could you possibly lend me one nut to see how many turns I can get on my existing studs to make sure this is a safe way to avoid tearing apart the calipers? Thanks--pics here to show you the wheels on the lug studs, and 2 OEM lug nuts screwed down in the tapered holes .

They are inexpensive. I'd ship you mine at cost but it is cheaper to buy new. I really don't think it is a good idea to drive the car without longer studs. Like I said though, you can use them to mount the wheels and see how they look, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/24-EXTENDE...NUTS-12X1-5-TOYOTA-TUNDRA-TACOMA/131884945390

 

[Drew Gregg]

They are inexpensive. I'd ship you mine at cost but it is cheaper to buy new. I really don't think it is a good idea to drive the car without longer studs. Like I said though, you can use them to mount the wheels and see how they look, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/24-EXTENDE...NUTS-12X1-5-TOYOTA-TUNDRA-TACOMA/131884945390

I agree with you. I need the longer studs for added wheel support. I'll use the Tundra extended lug nuts when I convert the Coupe to a pickup truck for the next Octoberfest....

 

[Drew Gregg]

Hi Drew,

You are going to need to press the studs out of the hub/stud flange. Up front you need to remove the caliper. Remove the castle but on the axle stub. Pull the rotor/hub/stud flange. Then remove the hex screws that secure the hub/flange to the rotor. Once done you end up with what is seen below. It is a good opportunity to swap the bearings.

You can drill a stud access hole in your rear backing plate to do the tears if you are feeling lazy...

If you want to get the ball rolling up front without tearing your car apart, you can have these for $25. Shipping will be $14. I actually have two sets. Thanks!

View attachment 59342

Markos--I'll let you know about these hubs after I get the brakes sorted and actually drive the car. Thanks, Drew

 

[restart]

I need longer lug studs,but thanks for the offer for the lug bolts. I have those lug bolts on my '01 X5 and it's a chore to mount the wheel and then thread those bolts into the hub.

Barely on topic comment....one of the uses of this tool is to line up the holes when you change to your spare tire


the E9 tool kit has this version...

 

[HB Chris]

That tool is for a car with lug bolts, we use lug nuts. And the large Pin is for the large spark plug tool and the small tube wrench as well.

 

[Drew Gregg]

And the big green handled screwdriver is used to prop up the lid.... My '73 has those pink insulator spark plugs as well.