Will you be removing the VIN plates before sending away?
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
- Thread starter ScottAndrews
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Body shop will do that. I have ordered new ones: Karmann and the fender one.
Very Apt. Her name is Dulcinea...
Not a stranger to transmogrifying ugly ducklings into swans... My first major restoration below (circa 2001-2004). I did this in my garage. Paint, interior, and all..
However, MUCH easier because nearly all parts are easily available, either NOS or reproduction. And my E9 is not as ugly a duckling as this one was!!
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Braver man than I to see the beauty in that. Nicely done!
Almost any hard ware can be fixed. In your profession, fixing wet ware is WAY more challenging.
My 635 Euro redo... Circa 2008. My wife came home from work one day and asked if I was aware that there was a blue cloud in the street out front...
Scott, any thought about how you may add the additional wiring you are doing? In my case because I installed the battery in the trunk I put a distribution block in the old battery location. I have a large cable feeding that distribution block, but I’m now realizing that I may want to add a relay with power running to the distribution block controlled by that relay through the ignition switch since at the moment everything in that distribution block receives always-on battery power. You seem to be quite the wiring guy so figured I’d see see what you were planning to do. I posted a thread previously asking about any additional future wiring and am planning to perhaps run one or two wires to the fuse box area, one or two wires to the console area one or two wires to the under seat area and an extra wire back to the trunk merely for future proofing. I figure this way anything that I might choose to add whether or audio, seat heaters, etc. would already have a line from the battery power through the distribution block so that I won’t need to be tearing up any carpeting or removing the center console. Given the discussion about the label maker, it should be really easy to have AUX1, AUX 2, etc. There’s a reasonable point I may have Dan install air-conditioning in my non-AC car, so I need to figure out what wiring would be necessary to make that future job as easy as possible.
OK. A lot of questions...
AC: Currently the AC system picks up power from some sort of tap into the harness. It then goes to the AC unit and then takes a separate path though the AC line openings to the compressor and the AC fan. Seems pretty wonky, and I may revisit that for a better, more integrated solution. HBChris said all AC was added by the dealers.. so that's why this so wonky.
Battery Protection: I am not planning to relocate the battery. Part of this is PTSD from the 1967 MGB-GT I had in college. The long run from the batter(ies) under the rear seat in the MG made for chronically difficult starting (didn't help that it was two 6 volt batteries in series, so multiple connections).
However, I'd highly recommend using something to isolate the raw battery line from anything it is powering, especially with the long run through multiple potential abrasion points.. Either a fuse or a relay. On my boat I used some high amperage fuses that are part of the battery terminal (see link), so any short anywhere that draws over 100A isolates the battery. In your case a relay would be similar, although I would fuse each line from the relay output. I'd also consider either putting the battery relay in the back, at the battery, or fusing the battery line at the battery, so if for whatever reason there is a short on that line it will not incinerate your car. While it is probably water under the bridge, There is a huge difference between the starter cable and the rest of the car in terms of amperage. So, while it is a PITA, you may want to isolate the starter power from the car power, since the starter is the only thing that requires a super high average connection to the battery.
The ideal setup, IMO, would have the battery cable, armored in some way, going directly to the starter, then a relay and fuse protected line to the rest of the vehicle B+. This might save wire by hopscotching from the starter to your battery tray distribution block.
Basically think of the battery as an electrical bomb. If any wire connected directly to it shorts, then boom...So the closer to the battery you can protect, the safer everything is...
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AC: Currently the AC system picks up power from some sort of tap into the harness. It then goes to the AC unit and then takes a separate path though the AC line openings to the compressor and the AC fan. Seems pretty wonky, and I may revisit that for a better, more integrated solution. HBChris said all AC was added by the dealers.. so that's why this so wonky.
Battery Protection: I am not planning to relocate the battery. Part of this is PTSD from the 1967 MGB-GT I had in college. The long run from the batter(ies) under the rear seat in the MG made for chronically difficult starting (didn't help that it was two 6 volt batteries in series, so multiple connections).
However, I'd highly recommend using something to isolate the raw battery line from anything it is powering, especially with the long run through multiple potential abrasion points.. Either a fuse or a relay. On my boat I used some high amperage fuses that are part of the battery terminal (see link), so any short anywhere that draws over 100A isolates the battery. In your case a relay would be similar, although I would fuse each line from the relay output. I'd also consider either putting the battery relay in the back, at the battery, or fusing the battery line at the battery, so if for whatever reason there is a short on that line it will not incinerate your car. While it is probably water under the bridge, There is a huge difference between the starter cable and the rest of the car in terms of amperage. So, while it is a PITA, you may want to isolate the starter power from the car power, since the starter is the only thing that requires a super high average connection to the battery.
The ideal setup, IMO, would have the battery cable, armored in some way, going directly to the starter, then a relay and fuse protected line to the rest of the vehicle B+. This might save wire by hopscotching from the starter to your battery tray distribution block.
Basically think of the battery as an electrical bomb. If any wire connected directly to it shorts, then boom...So the closer to the battery you can protect, the safer everything is...
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