72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration

e9Leveque said:
Wow those do look beautiful. Powder coating is such a cool process, stuff looks very nicely finished with it. You can do the small parts yourself, will be great - pulleys, etc. it’s coming together!!
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Would be coming together faster, but I spent 3 hours today cleaning my old 3.64 LSD diff that I sold to a forumite. Couldn't bear to deliver him a grungy mess..

So final assembly of the half shafts, and the hubs will wait until next week.

Got the Caswell plating setup on order, so soon I'll be Zinc plating stuff.

Now that the interior is back, I am quickly running out of room!!
 
Lots of moving parts! I guess pun intended. I’m going to try some nickel plating on some of the duplicate tools that I have that have some rust spots. I used the Eastwood zinc plating, it worked well but was quite slow for things like screws and bolts - in the end it seemed that for those sending them out would be easier. My issue is that unlike you and some others, all of my repairs are in sequence and somewhat impromptu - since you have the whole car apart, much easier to hatch a whole bunch of screws and bolts and nuts. I’m sure it will look great. Are you yellow zinc-ing or silver color?
 
e9Leveque said:
Lots of moving parts! I guess pun intended. I’m going to try some nickel plating on some of the duplicate tools that I have that have some rust spots. I used the Eastwood zinc plating, it worked well but was quite slow for things like screws and bolts - in the end it seemed that for those sending them out would be easier. My issue is that unlike you and some others, all of my repairs are in sequence and somewhat impromptu - since you have the whole car apart, much easier to hatch a whole bunch of screws and bolts and nuts. I’m sure it will look great. Are you yellow zinc-ing or silver color?
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Depends. I'd say 90% is yellow chromate. HBChris says the wiper rods need to be silver.. So silver they will be.

I bought the 570 piece set of yellow zinc interior hardware from W-N, and most of the rest of the nuts and bolts will be new from Belmetric. I am too old for wire brushing every nut, bolt and washer...

So most of my stuff will be hood and trunk latches, door latches, throttle mechanisms, etc.
 
First article cast using the 3D printed mold for the AC drain. I used some silicone mold making stuff I had around. It is too soft, but demonstrates the process, and confirms the mold.

I'm going to try a Shore 40A urethane rubber next.

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Question for the group. I think I know the answer, but wanted to confirm before taking any action.

Is the accelerator pedal rod supposed to be bent slightly? Mine has a slight curve, and then the splined end appears to be slightly kinked.

Is this normal?

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Another Question:

I found the lower universal joint on my steering column is a bit stiff. I checked W-N and they want a staggering $325 for this part. Ireland sells one for $53..

What's with that? Is the Ireland one any good?
 
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Buy Lower Steering Shaft U Joint Steering Fit for BMW E21 E23 E24 E28 E32 E34 525i 530i 535i 540i M5 735i 635CSi 2.5L 3.5L 1985-1995,Steering Shaft U Joint Coupler 32311151454, 32311151452: Universal Joints - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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ScottAndrews said:
Question for the group. I think I know the answer, but wanted to confirm before taking any action.

Is the accelerator pedal rod supposed to be bent slightly? Mine has a slight curve, and then the splined end appears to be slightly kinked.

Is this normal?
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Scott, I went looking through my pictures, but can't find one of the throttle shaft. I don't recall mine being bent like yours so I suspect you can straighten fairly easily. I would not worry about the twisting on the splines as there is really not that much force applied through the mashing of the throttle...although your prior owner may have had a very heavy foot!

Your Caswell system will be fun to play with. The cleaning of the throttle bell crank that is attached to the side of the engine will look great and work more smoothly.
 
Got the CV joints and boots done. Man THAT IS A MESSY JOB!!! Caved and went with the Rein dimpled boot shrouds, and ordered the dog bone securing plates. Not original, but maybe some day I'll switch them back...Sigh...

But progress!!

I know there's tons more to do, but I felt it very satisfying today to go buy a small pile of materials for reassembly. Wheel bearing grease, loctite, anti seize compound, diff oil, trans oil, engine oil, etc...

Off on a camping trip tomorrow, so next week, reassembling the wheel hubs and suspension assemblies. Gotta have the car ready to sit on its wheels when paint is done, so we can send it home...
 
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ScottAndrews said:
Question for the group. I think I know the answer, but wanted to confirm before taking any action.

Is the accelerator pedal rod supposed to be bent slightly? Mine has a slight curve, and then the splined end appears to be slightly kinked.

Is this normal?

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I have those on the shelf, but I’m not in the United States till next week
 
Did a big circle of the bay area today. Visited Don to pick up a differential brace, dropped that off at the body shop and had a look at the car, and then went over to SF to get my power coated wiper bracket, bumper brackets and brake backing plates..

Car body is really coming along. All rust has been repaired. Currently flattening the body panels. They need to weld up the side marker and antenna holes, roll the fender lips, and weld in the diff brace. Should be done in about 6 weeks!!

Pics from today's visit.
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OK, got the rear bearings back in one trailing arm today. This was between touching up the paint on the struts, cleaning and painting the rear inner hubs, and painting various steering column bits.

Unfortunately once I had it all together I took this photo, and immediately realized my error...

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OOPS! forgot to install the brake backing plate, which is slightly hilarious since changing that was part of my motivation to disassemble the rear hubs.. So, out came the pullers and I got the hub out within realized I also had to install the parking brake cable. Got out the new cable and something doesn't look right.

Here is the brand new Walloth cable, and the old original cable.
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Not only are there no bolts for this, but the cable flange looks VERY weak.

So I set aside the second re-assembly of the left hub until I sort this out.. (Resolved: see next post)

Also, per my comment on the headlamp thread about wire brushing. Here are the two rear inner hubs. One brushed on the wire wheel, and the other original. These cleaned up very nicely! And then I painted the bits that dont either go inside the seal or face the half shaft. You can see a painted one inthe background of the photo of the Walloth parking brake cable above .

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I figured out the issue with the parking brake cables. The originals were one assembly. Cable, cable housing, flange, and mounting bolts. The new one is two pieces. The cable assembly, and then the heavier mounting flange. I actually ordered and have the mounting flange, but I was so distressed about having to disassemble the hub to get the backing plate on, that I didn't dig deeper into the box... Sure enough, there they were..

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So tomorrow, I'll wrap-up the left side, and assemble the right side. This time without the Oops!

https://y.yarn.co/15122141-c9cc-4b3...wNzIxODIkbzEkZzEkdDE3OTEwNzI0ODIkajYwJGwwJGgw
 
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