Wow those do look beautiful. Powder coating is such a cool process, stuff looks very nicely finished with it. You can do the small parts yourself, will be great - pulleys, etc. it’s coming together!!
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
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Wow those do look beautiful. Powder coating is such a cool process, stuff looks very nicely finished with it. You can do the small parts yourself, will be great - pulleys, etc. it’s coming together!!
Would be coming together faster, but I spent 3 hours today cleaning my old 3.64 LSD diff that I sold to a forumite. Couldn't bear to deliver him a grungy mess..
So final assembly of the half shafts, and the hubs will wait until next week.
Got the Caswell plating setup on order, so soon I'll be Zinc plating stuff.
Now that the interior is back, I am quickly running out of room!!
Lots of moving parts! I guess pun intended. I’m going to try some nickel plating on some of the duplicate tools that I have that have some rust spots. I used the Eastwood zinc plating, it worked well but was quite slow for things like screws and bolts - in the end it seemed that for those sending them out would be easier. My issue is that unlike you and some others, all of my repairs are in sequence and somewhat impromptu - since you have the whole car apart, much easier to hatch a whole bunch of screws and bolts and nuts. I’m sure it will look great. Are you yellow zinc-ing or silver color?
Depends. I'd say 90% is yellow chromate. HBChris says the wiper rods need to be silver.. So silver they will be.
I bought the 570 piece set of yellow zinc interior hardware from W-N, and most of the rest of the nuts and bolts will be new from Belmetric. I am too old for wire brushing every nut, bolt and washer...
So most of my stuff will be hood and trunk latches, door latches, throttle mechanisms, etc.
Those should be much easier to plate and less annoying. Keep us updated!
First article cast using the 3D printed mold for the AC drain. I used some silicone mold making stuff I had around. It is too soft, but demonstrates the process, and confirms the mold.
I'm going to try a Shore 40A urethane rubber next.
I'm going to try a Shore 40A urethane rubber next.
Question for the group. I think I know the answer, but wanted to confirm before taking any action.
Is the accelerator pedal rod supposed to be bent slightly? Mine has a slight curve, and then the splined end appears to be slightly kinked.
Is this normal?
Is the accelerator pedal rod supposed to be bent slightly? Mine has a slight curve, and then the splined end appears to be slightly kinked.
Is this normal?
Another Question:
I found the lower universal joint on my steering column is a bit stiff. I checked W-N and they want a staggering $325 for this part. Ireland sells one for $53..
What's with that? Is the Ireland one any good?
I found the lower universal joint on my steering column is a bit stiff. I checked W-N and they want a staggering $325 for this part. Ireland sells one for $53..
What's with that? Is the Ireland one any good?
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Scott, I went looking through my pictures, but can't find one of the throttle shaft. I don't recall mine being bent like yours so I suspect you can straighten fairly easily. I would not worry about the twisting on the splines as there is really not that much force applied through the mashing of the throttle...although your prior owner may have had a very heavy foot!
Your Caswell system will be fun to play with. The cleaning of the throttle bell crank that is attached to the side of the engine will look great and work more smoothly.