70 - 2800CS - 2270111 restoration - ode to the past

Not documented in pics but got the rear quarter windows in. Trim etc. obviously waiting on the front trim when the headliner is fully in.

Fitted the back carpet pieces. Figured I would test fit the seats... Still not happy with them so they will come out for more fiddling.

Floor carpet is not glued down yet of course... More work to be done in there and I don't want to mess them up.
 

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Yes Scott. I sprayed lizard skin sound control and ceramic heat shield (2 different products) on the floors and roof. Really makes a huge difference.

Not really fun to crawl around on though... Rough on the knees in shorts.
 
One thing I totally spaced out on... If you noticed... There are no holes for the rear bumper in the new panel.... Whoops.
 
tdgray said:
One thing I totally spaced out on... If you noticed... There are no holes for the rear bumper in the new panel.... Whoops.
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were they filled by accident? also no bolt holes in the side quarters?
If the reinforcement brackets are still present on the inside, then one could make new holes by drilling them through from the inside. Then at least the positioning is OK.
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CSL panels do not have the holes for the under riders as the black CSL bumpers didn't use under riders.
Think about if you want under riders - if so, you need holes for them as well.
 
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the lower valance panel is a new replacement panel. It did not come with any holes for mounting. And I tossed the old one. Side holes are still there. Will just have to mount up the bumper on the side and do some measurements to drill holes and fab up mounts. No biggie just a pain. And no Erik. I don’t plan on using the underriders. Think it looks cleaner without them. But I still have them if I should decide to put them on later.
 
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i am thinking of putting the underriders on the bumper but not bolting them to the rear valance as i don't have holes either as the PO filled them when they painted the car ... and the car came without them. all the welds seemed factory when we looked at them in the body shop with paint removed.
 
So greetings from Greensboro NC where I am picking up my engine, trans and differential in the morning. Can’t wait to get them home a start getting it back together.
 
rsporsche said:
i am thinking of putting the underriders on the bumper but not bolting them to the rear valance as.....
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Interesting idea Scott.
It eliminates a rust initiator; thin paint coverage around hole edges and driving a screw through it means that the paint often cracks and rust starts developing there.

One suggestion for the underrider; they are positioned really close to the body, originally with a plastic u-shaped profile in between them. If you mount them only to the bumper, they might be pretty close to the painted surface of the valance.
One option would be to trim the edges of the underrider, giving more clearance to the valance. But that would require rechroming - if that's on your list anyway, trimming them might be sensible.
 
Yah… I was thinking about adhesive… like spoiler tape… pretty thin and would keep it from slamming around.
 
very good point Erik, i have extra rubber trim that is used between the two pieces of chrome and i have planned to glue it to the inside of the underrider to prevent the chromed steel from rubbing on the lower valance. part #51111808420
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rsporsche said:
very good point Erik, i have extra rubber trim that is used between the two pieces of chrome and i have planned to glue it to the inside of the underrider to prevent the chromed steel from rubbing on the lower valance. part #51111808420
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On my Chamonix coupe I thought about just using the bumper as the PO had filled in the holes. But the guard is only held on by a course screw and a speed clip, not very secure in my mind. I drilled the two holes and on a 73 the bolt is longer so the 72 and earlier is easier to attach once bumper is mounted. Food for thought.
 
when i get there, i will take a better look at the early cars. since the idea would be to install it before the bumper installation, i could put it on with lock nuts.
 
Made it home with all the drive train intact… no thanks to the road conditions or drivers in West Virginia.

A few complaints thus far. While the guys (and Ray who is a treat) at Korman were nice as can be the load out was not without a bit of unorganized chaos. They couldn’t find my distributor and several other things. I definitely need my clutch fork that went missing.

Couple cosmetic complaints which I can rectify (but why should I).

So now I have to secure a 123 distributor as they don’t have any. Any advise here guys?
 
Well by god I finally have something to report.

My clutch parts finally showed up!

So the engine and transmission are finally able to be married.

So as you know… this is 3.0 engine and getrag 4 speed. The tricky part is this is my 2800 bell housing and the trans has been modified to accept my guibo and driveshaft. The trans is also fitted with a Korman short shifter.

Interesting to note… the bell housing does not “quite” match up to the 3.0. It’s very close and all the major holes line up just fine. The starter bump holes do not match up and the bottom cover had to be slightly modified.

The clutch fork is also my 2800. It looks very forward to me but I have not fitted my slave yet… I have to go find it upstairs in the parts loft.

By gosh.. finally some progress.
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