70 - 2800CS - 2270111 restoration - ode to the past

Not a whole lot of pictures of anything interesting.

Been back to work on the inside while the weather sucks and I don't want to open the doors.

Got the doors back together with internals. And got all the windows working. Still rocking the tuna cans... Hey... They work.. pokey but they work.

Back drivers needs adjusted. I must have accidently messed with the up- stop when I cleaned everything... Needs to go up a bit more. Also have a weird thing with the switch. Armrest switch works fine... Front switch will only go up... Not down.
 

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Engine is still a work in progress.... Lots to do in there.
 

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Oh and I got the new outside mirror mounted… big improvement over the POS that was on there.
 

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Only real problem I ran into this weekend is that the driver side door handle mechanism (inside flapper part) is bent and the handle does not line up well. I tried to bend it back but was afraid to go too far as the metal seemed a bit brittle.

I’ll look for a replacement.
 
I am having a hell of a problem with my turn signals. Ran through everything yesterday as I have for a week. There was a minor hiccup that I didn’t notice… the ones where you feel like an idiot when you find it.

Everything was working awesome… went to tidy everything up. Tie up cables etc. only to find it doesn’t work again. Hazards are fine but I have low power to the Green- Yellow wire at the turn signal switch. Switched flashers… no such luck. Has to be something grounding the GR GE wire or something similar but I’ll be damned if a I can locate anything.

Any ideas from the peanut gallery???
 
You might check the hazard switch itself. This switch is rather complicated for a few reasons. 1) it uses a single flasher for both turn signals and hazard lights;2 the true signals only work in ACC/RUN, but the hazards work even if the ignition is OFF. So the hazard switch is a hub where all four turn signal lamps converge, the ACC/RUN bus and the BATT bus land, and the turn signal switch signals land. On the earlier cars they made this even more complicated by sharing the wipe wash function with the turn signal switch...

I'd start by checking to see if one of the wire contacts inter hazard switch got dislodged. The low voltage at the green yellow wire may be some sort of leakage through some part of the switch.

On my 635, which has a similar setup, I once woke up to music playing at 3 AM. I got up thinking I woudl go reprimand the kids (we had 4 teenagers in the house at the time). I finally traced the music to the garage.. Hmm. So I discover that even though my car ignition is off. the radio is playing, and all of the dash lights were on. Turned out that the hazard switch has internally shorted the ACC/RUN bus to the BATT bus, thereby effectively turning on the car. The only way to stop this was to either remove a fuse, or to disconnect the hazard switch...
 
Good thought Scott… good thought. I double check the switch itself. IIRC I had to “fix the tab” quite a while ago.
 
Good lord not even sure where to pick back up here.

Been a ton of work since May. Mainly still installing all matter of things. I always try to remember things that stumped me that may help other folks.

A lot of aggravation. Some success…

Brakes.. man you have to pressure bleed these babies … it’s been noted here before. I bought a pressure bleeder that hooks to my compressor along with the BMW reservoir adapter. This did a couple of things. Diagnosed bad caliper seals as it was just oozing out. Also a bad hose on the clutch. Just fyi… keep it as low pressure.

The interior fought me pretty good. If I never take those seats out again I’ll be a happy man. Oh and put your seat rail covers in before you snug things down… they won’t slip in afterwards. I bought the stainless ones somebody here had made. Very nice. Not that you see much of mine.

When I got the engine in and hooked up I went about tuning the 123 distributor, setting timing etc. Well for some dumb reason Korman put in 45 main jets and 60 secondary’s in my Webers. Talked to the Weber guru and he sent out two sets of jets he stated a 6 cylinder BMW appropriate. So after installing 70 mains and 60 secondary it idles nice and smooth. Check your jet if you have to back your idle mixture out more than two turns!

Coupeking wheels… a splurg. Awesome… what else can you say about em. Nice to have some serious tire on the asphalt. Not that I’ve been out of the neighborhood yet.

I’ll think of some more things to add here.

Oh and I did order a hazard switch… it’s lost in usps hell right now.
 
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Onto today's happening...

So I was waiting on my windshield for several weeks. Customs idiocy etc. it arrived... Was not broken. So I called the glass guy I talked to a month ago. He said... Sure... How about Friday (last Friday). I said no problem. No call no show so I called to bitch them out. He said I was scheduled for Tuesday. I'm very sure I did not confuse Friday and Tuesday.

Tuesday comes... Calls at noon. Can't make it today. Now I'm pissed but okay. Wednesday comes.. dude shows up at 4 ... I was nice enough to turn on the AC on the shop. Takes a look at the front and back glass... Declares he doesn't really know how to do it and doesn't have the tools. Really pinhead... It's rope. Someone else will have to come out.

This is the third glass company that has given me the run around.

Screw them. So today I decided to tackle it myself. Did the back window first... Big learning curve as I had no idea what I was doing.

Amazingly enough it only took two tries. But thanks to some wise words I read here I got it in. Only one bruise to the seal.

I found the best way was to seat the bottom as well as you can and then work the rope from the top down. When I did it the other way the bottom popped out. The ratchet strap is a must if you are doing this yourself.... Oh edit here... No pictured are the foam blocks on the ratchet strap I used along the process. Another must.

Will attempt the windshield tomorrow. I'm sure it will be worse.
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So… you probably have noticed that my car is a little darker than most chamonix… well it looks darker in the shop under the lights and….

I went to get some more paint to finish up some brackets etc. my paint guy and I were chatting… it had been a while so I asked him… refresh my memory on the mixing ratio… aha.. got it.

Went home and painted a couple of things… holy crap are these off. I pulled the label off the old can… sure enough… he wrote the wrong mixing ratio on it. He wrote a single stage mix instead of base clear mix.

Sooooooo… I now have a three shade darker car than planned :oops:

It’s okay.., I kind of like it… it brightens up a lot outside. And I guess like me… it’s kinda off and unique
 
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Oh and I got a new sign for the shop for my birthday.

Still have a lot of shake down to do... Things to fix and a lot of this and that's to put on the car.

It's been fun so far... When this thing isn't fighting me tooth and nail.
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tdgray said:
I found the best way was to seat the bottom as well as you can and then work the rope from the top down. When I did it the other way the bottom popped out. The ratchet strap is a must if you are doing this yourself.... Oh edit here... No pictured are the foam blocks on the ratchet strap I used along the process. Another must.

Will attempt the windshield tomorrow. I'm sure it will be worse.
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Great ideas on the strap!!

Few cars these days have traditional rubber mounted glass, so most of the technicians only seem to know glued in glass.

I put the front and back glass back in my 635 after I painted it. Pretty easy. I used liquid detergent to lube things a bit. I also don;t use a very heavy line, really a thin nylon cord is all that's needed.
 
Great progress Todd. I think you are very brave to tackle the windshield yourself, but you are having positive results. Keep up the good work. I know, some neighbours just don't see their property from the other side, and would probably do something if they did. ;)
 
tdgray said:
Yes… 1/8 inch cord… and I used WD 40… which is basically slippery water. I’m not a fan otherwise.

Thanks guys!
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I can't stand the smell of WD40 and it's a bit overkill for window installation IMHO. A google search found this result: "Yes, traditional WD-40 Multi-Use Product can damage rubber seals with use over time. Because it is a petroleum-based solvent, it can cause certain types of rubber to soften, swell, crack, or harden, leading to degradation and failure of the seal."
There is a special version that is more rubber safe, WD-40 Specialist Silicone.

There are lubricants specifically designed for rubber. I found one with a quick search on Amazon that sounds pretty good. The 8 oz size is a better buy if you are doing more than one window and I'd rather have too much can not enough.

There are other lubricants that might be more available, I've seen some water based and wax based ones used for pulling wires through conduit that would also probably work quite well. Here's an example of one at Home Depot.


Cheaper than the rubber specific product, but I think the one designed for rubber will be my choice when it's my turn to reinstall my glass.
 
mulberryworks said:
I can't stand the smell of WD40 and it's a bit overkill for window installation IMHO. A google search found this result: "Yes, traditional WD-40 Multi-Use Product can damage rubber seals with use over time. Because it is a petroleum-based solvent, it can cause certain types of rubber to soften, swell, crack, or harden, leading to degradation and failure of the seal."
There is a special version that is more rubber safe, WD-40 Specialist Silicone.

There are lubricants specifically designed for rubber. I found one with a quick search on Amazon that sounds pretty good. The 8 oz size is a better buy if you are doing more than one window and I'd rather have too much can not enough.

There are other lubricants that might be more available, I've seen some water based and wax based ones used for pulling wires through conduit that would also probably work quite well. Here's an example of one at Home Depot.


Cheaper than the rubber specific product, but I think the one designed for rubber will be my choice when it's my turn to reinstall my glass.
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Smell? Have you tried Kroil? Amazing product, but also unique and lingering smell. Have gotten used to WD40 "fragrance". Kroil...I don't think I ever will. I have drifted toward Dawn dishwater detergent. Slippery and kind to ...well everything it touches.
 
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