1971 2800 Sahara

How do you know the air is coming from the MC?
I also used a similar pressure bleeder on my car filling a completly empty system a few weeks ago.
If you open the bleed nipples too much when you use a vacuum bleeder, air can be sucked in through the nipple threads and creating bubbles.
I think the same applies when using a pressure bleeder.
Could this be happening?
Some people recomend using grease on the threads to seal it up some.

Does the brake pedal feel spongy?

My procedure was like this on an all empty system. New lines, and all new parts exept rear calipers that were rebuildt.

- Hooked up the pressure bleeder, with no brake fluid yet, and did a pressure test on the empty system by pumping up to 10-15psi.
(My pressure bleeder has an adapter cap that screws directly to the reservoir)
- Checked/listened for leeks.
- Then opened all bleed nipples one by one to check that air was coming through.
- Disconnected the pressure bleeder.
- Filled up the brake reservoir with fluid.
- Started with the bleed nipple farthest away, opened it up and used a manually operated vacuum pump to get fluid flowing through.
Didnt care so much about air bubbles at this time. Worked my way in the right sequence with the rest of the lines including the clutch system. Same time keeping an eye on the reservoir level.
- Hooked up the pressure bleeder again. Filled it up with 1L of fluid. Pumped it up to 10psi and started bleeding in the right sequence.
Used a catch can with no non-return valve.
- Disconnected the pressure bleeder.
- Pumped the brake pedal a couple of times.
- Topped up the reservoir.
- Started the engine and checked the function of the brake booster.

I must mention that this was my first time filling an empty system and my first time with the pressure bleeder.
Others may have procedures that works good as well.
 
Frederick said:
Now, if I could only find three 45 dcoe’s and a manifoldo_O
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If you are serious, I have a set of 40s in a box I'm not using (and I don't think you need 45s, even with a Metric Mechanic built engine). https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/triple-weber-for-e3-2800.41442/post-361990

Having said that, I will tell you that I had a conversation with Carl Nelson when I was in Monterey in 2016 in which he told me he prefers the carbs you have over the triple Weber setup. He claims the car will make the same power, and the 38s are much easier to set up and live with. I've never had 38s on my car (I had Weber DGAV 32/36s on my car when I bought it), so I can't comment on the difference.
 
Ohmess said:
If you are serious, I have a set of 40s in a box I'm not using (and I don't think you need 45s, even with a Metric Mechanic built engine). https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/triple-weber-for-e3-2800.41442/post-361990

Having said that, I will tell you that I had a conversation with Carl Nelson when I was in Monterey in 2016 in which he told me he prefers the carbs you have over the triple Weber setup. He claims the car will make the same power, and the 38s are much easier to set up and live with. I've never had 38s on my car (I had Weber DGAV 32/36s on my car when I bought it), so I can't comment on the difference.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer. Definitely requires 45's. If you do the math on the individual cylinder CC's, its over 600 per cylinder. To achieve even 6500rpm, (and this motor can go to 7500 with no issues) requires minimum 44mm main
Venturi, which obviously will not fit in 40 dcoe's.
Had lengthy conversations with Steve Nelson at Topendperformance regarding this.
And, after just recently putting dual 40's on the 2002, which has a MM2300 Rally motor ,(after driving it for 7 years with a single 38 down draft) I can tell you the performance upgrade was astounding. And it even runs better altogether.
Further, after reading and re-reading Steve armstrongs thread on triples, viewing sfshooter's videos, studying Steve Nelsons tech articles and a successful instal of the
dual 40's on the 2002, I believe the issues owners have with the side drafts are real, but easily addressed. The most common problem is vacumn leaks. If you have leaks(and I had several) the carbs cannot be tuned.
 
Frederick said:
Thanks for the offer. Definitely requires 45's. If you do the math on the individual cylinder CC's, its over 600 per cylinder. To achieve even 6500rpm, (and this motor can go to 7500 with no issues) requires minimum 44mm main
Venturi, which obviously will not fit in 40 dcoe's.
Had lengthy conversations with Steve Nelson at Topendperformance regarding this.
And, after just recently putting dual 40's on the 2002, which has a MM2300 Rally motor ,(after driving it for 7 years with a single 38 down draft) I can tell you the performance upgrade was astounding. And it even runs better altogether.
Further, after reading and re-reading Steve armstrongs thread on triples, viewing sfshooter's videos, studying Steve Nelsons tech articles and a successful instal of the
dual 40's on the 2002, I believe the issues owners have with the side drafts are real, but easily addressed. The most common problem is vacumn leaks. If you have leaks(and I had several) the carbs cannot be tuned.
Click to expand...
Obviously, I did not follow Carl Nelson's advice; I have triple Webers on my car. At over 600cc per cylinder, yes the 40DCOEs will be too small.
 
Frederick said:
Thanks for the offer. Definitely requires 45's. If you do the math on the individual cylinder CC's, its over 600 per cylinder. To achieve even 6500rpm, (and this motor can go to 7500 with no issues) requires minimum 44mm main
Venturi, which obviously will not fit in 40 dcoe's.
Had lengthy conversations with Steve Nelson at Topendperformance regarding this.
And, after just recently putting dual 40's on the 2002, which has a MM2300 Rally motor ,(after driving it for 7 years with a single 38 down draft) I can tell you the performance upgrade was astounding. And it even runs better altogether.
Further, after reading and re-reading Steve armstrongs thread on triples, viewing sfshooter's videos, studying Steve Nelsons tech articles and a successful instal of the
dual 40's on the 2002, I believe the issues owners have with the side drafts are real, but easily addressed. The most common problem is vacumn leaks. If you have leaks(and I had several) the carbs cannot be tuned.
Click to expand...
Steve at TEP has been such a huge resource for me over the years. I used to live near him and would visit his shop (old location) while I built my second 02 and he was so great to talk to. He can tune the hell out of those webers. I did a high performance 2L with dual 40s on that and it absolutely screamed. He took it around the block with me and had a blast driving it. Great guy.
 
StephenZ said:
Steve at TEP has been such a huge resource for me over the years. I used to live near him and would visit his shop (old location) while I built my second 02 and he was so great to talk to. He can tune the hell out of those webers. I did a high performance 2L with dual 40s on that and it absolutely screamed. He took it around the block with me and had a blast driving it. Great guy.
Click to expand...
Agree, I got my 10:1 pistons from him, he knew exactly what I needed for my original block.
 
Now we’re cooking with gas, well, gasoline.
Only one issue I can’t solve. The vacuum booster thread is 17 mm and both connections. I have are too large, one is way too large.
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Seems to be in conflict with the linkage rod as well.
 

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While the crossbar linkage is sexy, I find them not as easy to set and forget as the inter-couple system which would also solve your clearance issue. Did you ask Steve Nelson if he has a solution? Alfa1750 on eBay sells quality linkage, Pierce might also.
 
Plan on giving Steve Nelson a call today.
I did go back and look at your linkage and it is indeed very simple. Way with a lot of parts.
 
and these are great filters for those trumpets - easy on and off with no restriction. I removed the painted logos with acetone:

www.ebay.com

3 x RAMAIR Carb Sock Air Filters Datsun 240z 260z 280z RPH Weber 45 DCOE | eBay

RamAir sock style air filters, which feature two holes cut out of the foam on the underside of the air filter.The two holes are designed, so that you can pull the air filter over the top of the trumpets of the carb or the engine's two air intakes - whichever is necessary.
www.ebay.com
 
Call me at shop tomorrow - we are finishing an install. Martin can help you.

I‘ll send pics today.
 
Frederick said:
Now we’re cooking with gas, well, gasoline.
Only one issue I can’t solve. The vacuum booster thread is 17 mm and both connections. I have are too large, one is way too large.
View attachment 188590
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engine compartment is looking gorgeous ... one thought -
you need the original type of oil cap on the valve cover. Max has a chrome one for $49
1725810549833.jpeg
 
Got the hood on! OH MY God ,
IMG_0222.jpeg
what a pain in the ass and it’s still not exactly right. Six points of contact, eight if you engage the lower part of the hinge, of course I did.

Motor is running well, the brakes are OK but probably need professional help to get them right because I ain’t doing it anymore:mad:. i’m completely bled out.!!
Exhaust is also satisfactory to get it to muffler, man who will customize the midsection and rear muffler and valance.
 
Looks amazing! Yes, that hood is brutal..big and heavy, too. I've had to take it off and put it on a few times alone already...my back is asking me to stop. Gaps all look good from here! Better than mine will, I'm sure..lol
 
Gorgeous! Going back to the brake booster connection, could you use a banjo fitting - like power steering hose end?
 
StephenZ said:
Looks amazing! Yes, that hood is brutal..big and heavy, too. I've had to take it off and put it on a few times alone already...my back is asking me to stop. Gaps all look good from here! Better than mine will, I'm sure..lol
Click to expand...

StephenZ said:
Looks amazing! Yes, that hood is brutal..big and heavy, too. I've had to take it off and put it on a few times alone already...my back is asking me to stop. Gaps all look good from here! Better than mine will, I'm sure..lol
Click to expand...
The SOB kept shifting on me and I couldn’t figure out why, but I did notice that the damn torsion bar where it attaches to the car wouldn’t tighten and kept moving.
I had put the nuts and washers in a bag , but they were the wrong ones. It is critical the size of the washer used on the interior. It’s a 12 mm opening I believe and it goes over the bolt where the bolt indents to match the size of the Torsion bar arm. I was using one that was too thick, 2 mm. I took a look at the 2002 and took it an apart. clearly the arm has to swing freely and cannot be pinched. The washer that worked is a little bit larger than a wave washer at 1 mm.. once I got the torsion bar to stop moving every time I looked at it wrong, Some of my adjustments remained in place.
 
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