Discussion in 'E9 Projects and Restorations' started by RTHLSS1, Dec 27, 2017.
great progress ! congrats.
Looks great but if it matters to you the wiper motor bracket should be satin black.
Yes was thinking about painting it in black and wall behind it as it was original but decided to go all white - i like it more but I agree original is the way if car would be restored in original condition.
This is normally a good evidence, that owner didn't care to much in a reasonable re spray of the engine bay. Those normally spray the body color all over bits and pieces including heater body, gaskets or other rubber parts or whatever it may seem to be a too big effort to dismantle it for the paint job. Terrible !!!
Yours is looking good, so imho you should reconsider your decision. But it's just personal taste an nothing to be "negotiated" ....
One other point: Fresh paint on E9s can be recognized in 99% of the cases, because the black sticker under the side grill in the front fender is missing. I'd apply these, just to be slightly different by keeping it original. BTW: the paint doesn't look Chamonix, but more alpin white, which is a lot brighter than the original Chamonix white. Non less it looks nice, especially after you did the engine bay the proper way.
To sand blast the valve cover isn't a good idea, because the blasting material will be collected under the oil labyrinth, which kill's your engine pretty sure, unless you remove the sheet metal to clean the area beneath it and re rivet it back after that cleaning. I'd just sand the outside and paint it with wrinkle paint in black, since you don't seem to stick to much to an original look. I did this to my machine and like the look after sanding the BMW logo and the stripes back to silver aluminum. The intake plenum can be blasted, but also here you have to be rather careful to wipe or blow out every debris, to avoid the engines death. After sand blasting you have the choice to just clear coat it or do an additional layer of silver in advance to the clear coat, which strictly has to be a 2 component system to resist oil, gasoline or brake fluid. Another personal hint is to use DOT 5 silicone break fluid, which is not acid as the regular DOT 4 "shit". It doesn't want to catch water inside the fluid and regularly can last inside your break system forever without change it each couple of years. Nothing gonna rust around the pistons inside the calipers anymore. I'm a fan of this and really can't hide it ...
Long time no update. I removed sill covers to repaint them since they were badly painted and behind moulding trim there was black silicone instead of rubber... Behind cover I found rust and strange attempts to repair it on 1 side. Another side was just little bit rusted but we cut and repair that as well.
Just to be sure I removed floor sound deadening panels on both front side - found rust in outer corner on both side will be reparing that as well.
Small update... i got ordered GAZ coilovers and BBS RS 17".
Hopefully I will start assembling car soon.
Great work! Thanks for sharing...
Photo of patched rust spots on both driver and passenger floor. Also inner sills were rusted on both sides so they were patched too.
That rusty looking stuff on upper floor section isn’t rust - remains of foam and glue.
I will remove both rear floor deadening panels to see if there is any surprise under there as well. It is pain in the ass to remove this bitumen material
Removed bitumen deadening ... good news no holes in the back just some surface rust which I buffed off. Will put a layer of protection on entire floor before I start placing new bitumen panels and then foam and finally new carpets.
Wanted to buy Dynamat panels but they didn’t have them locally so I bought other brand it will do just fine I hope.
What did you get? What do mean by bitumen? I am doing that now in trunk
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I also have Gaz coilovers and would be interested in how you get on with these. Originally, I had their solid adjustable camber plates (from a 2002 racer) but they were too harsh for the road. I am also experimenting with the spring rate and length at the front. We should compare notes as it might save each other some time.
I bought CTK premium. By bitumen I meant this black panels.
I will made camber plates on my own for only 1 position not adjustable just to get a little bit of camber. But first I must install coilovers to see how I will have to rebuilt wheels to make them fit in front.
For front GAZ made me shorter springs to bring the spring seat higher to get more clearance for wider wheel. I will be running 8 or 8.5J in front I will see what fits with no rubbing.
Protected and painted floor
New insulation on the floor
Put an extra layer of sound deadning foam. It is not too thick so I hope there wont be no problems with fitting new carpets.
all seems nice…. as long there's no water on the floors…. be sure you "can" check !
Water on the floors is something 99% of coupe owners don't have to worry about.
Yes was thinking that but then i remembered that I had rust spots under sound deadening panels where I wasn’t able to check without a day’s work to remove them. Foam I placed does have some "anti water absorption"...
I already put extra layer of rubber flooring on all 4 panels and middle tunnel. Only glued it on the tunnel so that i can check floor pan situation if needed.
Photo of work in progress:
Really? Didnt have a chance to find out .
Before I put sills covers back on here is a photo of sills after repair
Thanks for the replay.
I have tried different lengths of spring and might now have the one I want to run with. There is not much clearance
I researched the front tyre width as I had a set of Alpina 17" x 8.5" These were slightly too large and the offset was wrong. I had to run with 8" which sit well and provide the proper clearance but only just.
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