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YES YET I PUT A BATTERY ON THE FENDER AND HOOKED UP DIRECT TO STARTE AND GROUND
AND NO LUCK -so it has to be compression -till it beaks in
i guess ill use 10 bateries to initailly start it
 
Be careful with that idea. Starters are way stronger than people think. I have seen bent rods and many crushed bearings with lots of battery and interference of some kind. Compression will not break in and if someone set up the clearances that tight, you will have issues after things expand under normal driving conditions. By chance is the coil hooked up when you are spinning it? Is the fuel pump running as well? Are you certain that ign timing and cam timing is right? Spark plugs interfering mechanically?Pull the valve cover and spin the engine over without plugs to see if all valves are opening correctly and in the correct sequence.
 
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Be careful with that idea. Starters are way stronger than people think. I have seen bent rods and many crushed bearings with lots of battery and interference of some kind. Compression will not break in and if someone set up the clearances that tight, you will have issues after things expand under normal driving conditions. By chance is the coil hooked up when you are spinning it? Is the fuel pump running as well? Are you certain that ign timing and cam timing is right? Spark plugs interfering mechanically?Pull the valve cover and spin the engine over without plugs to see if all valves are opening correctly and in the correct sequence.

@aearch,

Are you trying to spin your motor or trying to start the car? Is your ECU setup with a base map that will facilitate a start? There is a big difference between tuning the motor and getting it to simply run under it’s own power. I didn’t think that you were configured for either as of yet. I get the goal to work out the battery and startup kinks, but I assumed the rest would be handled by the shop.
 
I think you would've noticed, but a possibility is if a faulty injector/injector wiring/ecu fills up a cylinder with fuel as soon as you move your key to ignition = hydrolock with plugs in.
I had this problem once, but the smell of fuel should be noticeable which I think you should have noticed.
 
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I think you would've noticed, but a possibility is if a faulty injector/injector wiring/ecu fills up a cylinder with fuel as soon as you move your key to start = hydrolock with plugs in.
I had this problem once, but the smell of fuel should be noticeable which I think you should have noticed.

Sounds like a great way to bend a rod!
 
Sounds like a great way to bend a rod!

It sure is, it happened twice in a Volvo 245 TIC that I had, the problem was a sketchy megasquirt setup, and impossible to notice since it happened for no reason and you wont hear it from inside the car.
Luckily, no rods were bent in my case! (But would have if I kept bringing more batteries ;))
 
It sure is, it happened twice in a Volvo 245 TIC that I had, the problem was a sketchy megasquirt setup, and impossible to notice since it happened for no reason and you wont hear it from inside the car.
Luckily, no rods were bent in my case! (But would have if I kept bringing more batteries ;))

You had me at megasquirt 245. OT thread is in order! :D
 
thanks just trying to turn it over
to test elec and power. SURPRISED SOMEONE HASNT MENTIONED THE OBVIOUs-
when i get to the shop -pull out my tow cable hook it up
put in 3rd gear turn on the key LET OUT THE CLUTCH
BANG BANG --SEE YOU.
 
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Well, I'm confused. There are lots of things that can go BANG BANG. Did the engine start and a backfire out of the exhaust? Did the engine start and the exhaust note was very loud? Did something MECHANICAL go BANG BANG. One of those possibilities is good. The other two may not be!!

Gary
 
I’m gleaming from this that you want your first start to be from dropping the clutch in third gear at speed instead of getting your starter working properly. Sounds like a plan!

thanks just trying to turn it over
to test elec and power. SURPRISED SOMEONE HASNT MENTIONED THE OBVIOUs-
when i get to the shop -pull out my tow cable hook it up
put in 3rd gear turn on the key LET OUT THE CLUTCH
BANG BANG --SEE YOU.
 
yep cylinder firing. -the old 60's term kick start!!
also tidied up the wiring again and painted the back of the instrument location
going nuts with my touch up paint
 

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never ends -done with the wiring when to put the underdash and the hazard switch poops out in my hand
so setting it back together.,
 
NEVER LIKED THE WAY THE RIGHT SIDE of the underdash fit against the bottom of the dash as
it has only one secure point on the left - the right tends to bend down and show all its edge
so today i added a z bracket under the dash to align w/ the right edge and
set another screw there to match
now the bottom of the trim aligns all the way across the bot of the dash
 
wrapped up most all the interior work so im settin the driver dr and window in the nmorn
the dink that did the fender didnt align it with the door on
what an idiot.
so ill have to have it revised to set the gap right
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S
yep cylinder firing. -the old 60's term kick start!!
also tidied up the wiring again and painted the back of the instrument location
going nuts with my touch up paint

Sorry, I couldn’t follow all this, b/c I don’t know enough about engines to understand. Does the car now start on battery from ignition after the pop-start?
 
i have to take the car to a tuner in santa rosa to configure the link computer
working to get 2000.00 to pay them
 
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