4310316 begins

Seems like a reasonable price non the less. I went to an online upholstery supplier and bought about a meter/yard of white material. Used my original as a template and made my own. The material plus shipping was maybe $15, I think. The problem is, it is too white. It looks odd when compared to every original I've seen which has gracefully faded to a golden hue.
 
Alan -

Did you do any chassis reinforcements in anticipation of the trick S38? I've heard stories about flex from stock s38's putting lots of forces through the chassis. Heck the factory CSLs had issues at a certain point. Just wondering. Looks like an awesome build!
 
no i didnt
i figure let it flex - the darn body is so flimsy it tweaks when you just jack it up 2"
and cant close the door . im am running a torsion bar across the front struts
that should really be enuff as thats where all the movement will be
left to right .
 
aearch said:
no i didnt
i figure let it flex - the darn body is so flimsy it tweaks when you just jack it up 2"
and cant close the door . im am running a torsion bar across the front struts
that should really be enuff as thats where all the movement will be
left to right .
Click to expand...

Cool. I was just wondering. Has anyone ever done a roll bar (a nice leather covered one) and tied it into rear shock towers? I'm just thinking out loud...
 
tferrer said:
Cool. I was just wondering. Has anyone ever done a roll bar (a nice leather covered one) and tied it into rear shock towers? I'm just thinking out loud...
Click to expand...

if you mean a strut brace for the trunk struts, @daddywad has them.

580A6AE6-523E-4EE3-9542-1A3003ABBEC7.jpeg
 
tferrer said:
Cool. I was just wondering. Has anyone ever done a roll bar (a nice leather covered one) and tied it into rear shock towers? I'm just thinking out loud...
Click to expand...

The user @decoupe had a really cool setup IMO. Sadly he passed doing what he loved...

Rollbar Installation

I did my first performance driving session last June using a friends hopped up WRX STi - which was an amazing car to start with but whose limits are so far beyond mine that I need to start over and grow into the sport. To that end I’m going to continue to modify my ’73 CS into a more trackable...
e9coupe.com e9coupe.com
 
hijacked oh nooooo
kidding -so i have finally, for the last time , finished the wiring under the dash and the fuse panel
there was a lot of organization, alignment, and soldering to secure all the connections that were
crimped connectors- pulled them all out.
and the coordination of the high beams and fog lights
all is working well
i can finally assemble the underdash trim
now i need to make sure the ac wiring is all correct -then ill be done with my dead time tinkering
and ready to get it up to santa rosa to fire it up
 
si dingbat bill watson that charged me 3k to wire the car -set the ignition wire back to the fuse box -idiot
took me an hour to pull the tape and track down the wire.
so i redid it all correct and tried to turn it over
-no luck wont make it one rev. so options look like a gear reduction starter
even with two batteries fo more amps .
ill know in the morn./ looks like there is no gear reduction starter for a bmw
 
Last edited:
Can you turn the motor over by hand with the plugs removed? That would take the compression ratio out of the equation. You could always try the same with the starter, no plugs and injector harness disconnected. What is the shelf life of assembly lube that has been applied to a motor with exposure to air (presuming some of the valves are open?

BTW, before turning over by hand it has been recommended to me that I don’t turn the crank pulley with a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Please research my ideas before proceeding. I’m just thinking out loud and not aware of any ramifications due to turning the motor. The engineer in me wants to rule compression ratio
out of the equations, and focus on tolerances.


aearch said:
si dingbat bill watson that charged me 3k to wire the car -set the ignition wire back to the fuse box -idiot
took me an hour to pull the tape and track down the wire.
so i redid it all correct and tried to turn it over
-no luck wont make it one rev. so options look like a gear reduction starter
even with two batteries fo more amps .
ill know in the morn./
Click to expand...
 
yep thanks
ive removed the plugs and its good ill most likey have to run down a few batteries to loosen it up enuff to
turn w/ compression
 
Something sounds strange to me, you have two optima batteries and can't get the engine turning?
Are S38's that heavy to rotate? I know this one probably has a tad higher compression than a stock S38, but still..
What about cable dimensions to the starter?
 
my S38 in the rally E9 started as good as a M30 with the same "small" batterie/cables. Biggest concern was that it is not a "torque" engine, it only comes alive above 4k rev's. Not really associated with a E9 what you expect. I like a lot more my M30 now .
But then i only got 286 HP due the input signal from the diff didn't work with the simulator box.... never seen the factory 320HP.... costly adventure and glad it is over and done.

PS correct me if i'm wrong , but i do recall me that it is impossible to renew a starter motor.... engine out job ? i know it was one of my worries , being a rally car .
 
ALL THE ABOVE IS GOOD
im not sure but all the cables are good the engine is 11:1 compression so im pulling the plugs and today i checked all the
the wiring and i wired the starter relay from the battery instaed of thru the ign switch.
so ill check tomorrow. and post back. starter is easy in and out as its just on the bottom left.
could be a dragging starter thought -ill know tomorrow,
i installed a new battery switch today as the other broke i broke a terminal.
and above set the starter to fire from the battery instead of the switch
at least this way ill know if the starter is dragging as there no other circuits in the way.
lookin forward to the morn.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top