This thread as of last year exceeded the length of WWII. In November, it will exceed the length of the Iran-Iraq War.
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A 97 635csi should be worth some good money.
Perhaps he means a 1997 E31 engine -- an S70B56 maybe? :^)
I've a post on here somewhere where I worked out it was longer than conception-completion of the Apollo Program. Suggested some NASA style thinking be brought to the problem. I'd settle for some LEAN instead. Stop & Fix...
But. we've got a long way to go before we reach the 'length' of the 30 Years War. Any wagers on whether it reaches that mark?
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for gosh sakes was you have no idea what im doing or not doing
there is really no need for you to critisize my doing no matter what they are/!!
negative comments above do nothing to advance any work
which is what this place is for to begin with
think about it.
there is really no need for you to critisize my doing no matter what they are/!!
negative comments above do nothing to advance any work
which is what this place is for to begin with
think about it.
Okay LAST time. Buy a running car. Get it PPI’d. It will cost you 3-4x as much as buying a stand alone motor. The difference is that if the swap doesn’t work, you have nobody to point fingers at but yourself (for better or worse).
The car below has 155K miles on it. That is 5,000 miles a year for 30 years. This motor should have 100k left on it. Car has new tires and plenty of little things you can sell if you don’t want to dump the chassis immediately. Wheel will also fit on your car. You will want to register it properly or you will be stuck with the carcass.
Before negotiation you have a $4,500 working driving vehicle that can tested prior to purchase. Didn’t you sell your s38 for $10K?
FYI Motor is an M30B35. Yes there are cheaper options, but is cheaper the best option for you? I really don’t know.
With all due respect, please stop saying that you don’t know what motor to get, or what car to get it from. The info has been relayed too many times to make that claim, and now you have a visual aid.
The car below has 155K miles on it. That is 5,000 miles a year for 30 years. This motor should have 100k left on it. Car has new tires and plenty of little things you can sell if you don’t want to dump the chassis immediately. Wheel will also fit on your car. You will want to register it properly or you will be stuck with the carcass.
Before negotiation you have a $4,500 working driving vehicle that can tested prior to purchase. Didn’t you sell your s38 for $10K?
FYI Motor is an M30B35. Yes there are cheaper options, but is cheaper the best option for you? I really don’t know.
With all due respect, please stop saying that you don’t know what motor to get, or what car to get it from. The info has been relayed too many times to make that claim, and now you have a visual aid.
north bay cars & trucks - by owner - craigslist
north bay cars & trucks - by owner - craigslist
sfbay.craigslist.org
For everyone else that wants to poke fun at @aearch’s timeline, there are plenty of other slow members to pick on that are prolific posters.
To name a few:
@autokunst
@eriknetherlands
@Markos
To name a few:
@autokunst
@eriknetherlands
@Markos
Ok, stacks on @marcos 
Stop hoarding CSL parts and get on with it.
Stop hoarding CSL parts and get on with it.
Slow? Slow? I am doing a zillion things to the car that no-one ever sees! ;-)
Fully agree; it's a hobby, no need for any time lines to be met.
Ouch? If you catch me asking the same question a dozen times, remind me of this post.
If you catch me asking the same question a dozen times, remind me of this post.
This is exactly what my M30B35 came out of for my E3. A simple flat steel adapter (@Mike Goble made it for me) Drop it in, throw some Weber 38/38 carbs on it and go. I should've put that motor in my coupe along with the 5spd gearbox I have sitting in storage. It's quite a bit different than the 2.8L but I'm not ready to tear the coupe apart just yet.
OK NO MORE NONSENSE. or repeating questions answered.
yes ive asked the same questions many times. and answered.
i ferget things oh well or maybe just want a diff answer
but dang and markos have been very supportive.
so im on the hunt for a cheaper car as the "household" took
the 10k in two minutes. so have to get a few jobs to get the
car with the motor.
the 5 series above is awesum -if i bought it -id keep it to drive
i have the e46 to run around in now which is fine
so markos's suggestion is indeed the way to go
aat some point in 5years the post will end
ya right!?
ye see i want to keep all you bored people out there something to look forward too
---hey lets go look at alan post -see what craziness we can find
and reply with stuff that stuff even matter to cars - let alone the "bmw 3.0cs e9"
yes ive asked the same questions many times. and answered.
i ferget things oh well or maybe just want a diff answer
but dang and markos have been very supportive.
so im on the hunt for a cheaper car as the "household" took
the 10k in two minutes. so have to get a few jobs to get the
car with the motor.
the 5 series above is awesum -if i bought it -id keep it to drive
i have the e46 to run around in now which is fine
so markos's suggestion is indeed the way to go
aat some point in 5years the post will end
ya right!?
ye see i want to keep all you bored people out there something to look forward too
---hey lets go look at alan post -see what craziness we can find
and reply with stuff that stuff even matter to cars - let alone the "bmw 3.0cs e9"
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Instead of paying a lump sum for another engine of dubious history, how much more would it cost to rebuild your original engine - the car is going to your daughter, yes? Does she care about an upgrade in horsepower? Would she have an opinion on wanting the original engine in it? Also, by rebuilding, you could spread the cost out over time as you work. That's all I got (coming from an original engine guy), good luck in whichever you choose to do.
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he is right, I think the same way and I rebuilt my original engine and for more power machine shop bore the cylinder an slightly bigger piston did the work and have 3 weber, now engine have more power that I need, and this engine will go another 20 years without spending any.
hey steve thats been a thought of mine all along yet as you say my daughtercould care less about the hp
i could bore it to 3.3 amd get new pistons and then get a newer head from an 87
as people here say the oem has heating and cracking tendencies
is that right?
so ill just need to buy the oem intakes and maybe go with headers on the other side
il put out a post for the missing parts
as it stands all i have is the long block as i sold all the components
i could bore it to 3.3 amd get new pistons and then get a newer head from an 87
as people here say the oem has heating and cracking tendencies
is that right?
so ill just need to buy the oem intakes and maybe go with headers on the other side
il put out a post for the missing parts
as it stands all i have is the long block as i sold all the components
Why would you ever consider rebuilding an engine when all advice is to go otherwise?
Someone please kill this thread and start a new one when the car is running...
Someone please kill this thread and start a new one when the car is running...
Some of the advice has been to rebuild his engine. There have been LOTS of opinions on this thread.