'71 2800 CS Budget Resto

Markos

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Hi Folks,

I joined in December 2014 after driving by my neighbors E9 for nearly a year. This car has been parked for roughly 20 years, driven occasionally, and likely spent a good chunk of that time outside. The rain damage is limited to what you would expect from a car that sits, and doesn't drive. The fender seams are clean. The shock towers and trunk are clean. The window frame is the biggest area of concern, as well as the rotten rockers. It looks like only one floor pan needs replacing, the driver's rear. The interior needs much work given that the car was taking on rain water.

The owner said he drove it to his new house a year ago. This was validated when I bought it today. We hooked up an outboard gas tank to the mechanical fuel pump, and it fired up on first crank. I drove my very first BMW home this evening. I probably should have picked an easier project ;)

I created a valuation thread in December to see what to offer the gentleman.

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17883


The valuation thread was a bit of a debate on restoration, doing work yourself versus having it done. How does one define restoration, etc. etc. Needless to say, I purchased the car. This won't be a checkbook restoration. Although it will likely hurt future resale value for me (if I ever decide to sell), I will be forthcoming with the cost to get this car road worthy and attractive. I prefer not to turn this thread into a debate on how rusty the car is. This thread will prove that out with pictures.

Here is my first restoration pic. Notice the fuel line going from the passenger seat to the engine bay. I have a trunk full of factory wheels. I also have a set of blue books. The engine also has dual weber down drafts. Most of the discoloration on the body in the pic below is moss. It's a PNW thing...

The owner is a good guy. He honored his original price after I low balled him (IMO). He received counter offers that were higher by others that passed by (including a alleged coupe owner with M6 engine - Edit: confirmed owner, we talked).

Purchase Price: $3,000


Dear Markos,

Thank you for your email.

The BMW 2800 CS VIN 2204650 was manufactured on July 20th, 1970, planned for Italy, but finally delivered on October 06th, 1970 to the BMW dealer Wogatzke in Kaiserslautern. The original colour was Granada, paint code 023.

We hope this information is helpful for you.
Summer Activities:



  • Get passenger door unlocked
  • Strip Interior
  • Soak Carpet in Vinegar/Water, then blast with my Power Washer
  • Steam Clean Fabric Seats
  • Clean headliner
  • Remove Dash, assess firewall from inside
  • Dry Ice to the sound deadening, assess
  • Replace Floor Panels as needed
  • Replace Interior parts as needed
  • Remove Tint
  • Check Brakes
  • Replace Fluids
  • Rinse/Seal gas tank
  • Replace fuel filter
  • flush fuel lines
  • Source Parts
  • Cruise

I will be shying away from any engine/suspension. My goal is to get the car drivable for the summer, see how I like it.

I will update this thread as I go.
 
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jmackro

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A complete coupe for $3,000 seems like a great deal and I understand your request to "not to turn this thread into a debate on how rusty the car is".

You described the rockers as "rotten", yet have not put addressing that rot on your near-term project list. I know you are anxious to get it on the road and see if you like it well enough to invest more time & money. But be aware that unlike a body-on-frame car, the rockers are structural on an e9 - this is a "unibody" car and its rocker area is structural.

It might be worthwhile to have an experienced body shop evaluate the car to determine just how rotten those rockers are. There are safety considerations here.
 

Markos

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A complete coupe for $3,000 seems like a great deal and I understand your request to "not to turn this thread into a debate on how rusty the car is".

You described the rockers as "rotten", yet have not put addressing that rot on your near-term project list. I know you are anxious to get it on the road and see if you like it well enough to invest more time & money. But be aware that unlike a body-on-frame car, the rockers are structural on an e9 - this is a "unibody" car and its rocker area is structural.

It might be worthwhile to have an experienced body shop evaluate the car to determine just how rotten those rockers are. There are safety considerations here.

Thanks! I understand your concern. To be clear, I really wont be leaving a 1 mile radius (stats, I know). I suspect that it is just the outer rockers. Once the interior is stripped I will know more. At this point, it's safer than a motorcycle. :) my thought is that the inners provide most of the support anyway. Regardless, the engine won't even fire for another few months.
 

Ohmess

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Hi Markos -- When I bought my coupe ten months ago, I started with the electrical system and then did the cooling system. I did this based in part on Rob Seigel's Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic book, and in part based on my past experience.

Batteries have a limited shelf life and belts and hoses deteriorate over time whether used or not. I also replaced the cable from the battery to the starter and the wiring from the alternator to the battery that keeps up the battery charged. These things are not expensive, and can keep you from getting stranded.
 

Markos

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Hi Markos -- When I bought my coupe ten months ago, I started with the electrical system and then did the cooling system. I did this based in part on Rob Seigel's Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic book, and in part based on my past experience.

Batteries have a limited shelf life and belts and hoses deteriorate over time whether used or not. I also replaced the cable from the battery to the starter and the wiring from the alternator to the battery that keeps up the battery charged. These things are not expensive, and can keep you from getting stranded.
I probably led people under the impression that I'd just clean up the car and start driving it. It needs months of work before it leaves my garage. The priority list is only meant to convey the short list. The car needs to go down to bare metal, but I am going to do some basic stuff first.

I failed to mention that the car has no battery. I pulled the Die Hard Platinum out of my Jeep. The electrical system needs a serious once over. I spotted at least one home wiring nut under the dash. The previous owner had what appears to be a radio-shack built amplification system. I'll snap some pics, as it is still in the trunk.

I'll post a write-up with links if/when I get to the battery wiring. I like to build my own cables out of 2/0 (or 00) gauge welding cable. Unlike the crap cables you find at Autozone, welding cable is highly flexible, and is made from hundreds of fine copper wires. Napa sells quality copper lugs, and adhesive heat shrink. Other than heavy duty cutters, the only special tool you need is a crimper. I use a hammer crimper. Hex crimpers are much more expensive.

2/0 Gauge - next to the quarter (the jacket on this wire isn't great)


Lug Crimper


Update: I made some out of 1/0:
https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/diy-heavy-duty-battery-cables.26960/
 
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Markos

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This is what I am up against first!



I am going to remove the seats, and rent this for $32/day
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Markos, that is so cool! I, for one, would be grateful if you started a thread and kept adding to it as it lets us follow the progress step by step. Sometimes people have asked "where do I start"? and there's more than one way to skin a cat!

Thanks,

Peter
 

Ohmess

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Thanks Markos for posting this. I intend at some point to relocate my battery to the trunk and like the idea of the welding cable. Where do you get it?

I probably led people under the impression that I'd just clean up the car and start driving it. It needs months of work before it leaves my garage. The priority list is only meant to convey the short list. The car needs to go down to bare metal, but I am going to do some basic stuff first.

I failed to mention that the car has no battery. I pulled the Die Hard Platinum out of my Jeep. The electrical system needs a serious once over. I spotted at least one home wiring nut under the dash. The previous owner had what appears to be a radio-shack built amplification system. I'll snap some pics, as it is still in the trunk.

I'll post a write-up with links if/when I get to the battery wiring. I like to build my own cables out of 2/0 (or 00) gauge welding cable. Unlike the crap cables you find at Autozone, welding cable is highly flexible, and is made from hundreds of fine copper wires. Napa sells quality copper lugs, and adhesive heat shrink. Other than heavy duty cutters, the only special tool you need is a crimper. I use a hammer crimper. Hex crimpers are much more expensive.

2/0 Gauge - next to the quarter (the jacket on this wire isn't great)


Lug Crimper


Here is a decent write-up on the process, very straight forward.
http://www.colorado.edu/physics/EducationIssues/podolefsky/electric_motorcycle_howto_battery.html
 

Markos

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Thanks Markos for posting this. I intend at some point to relocate my battery to the trunk and like the idea of the welding cable. Where do you get it?
You can buy it at nearly any welding supply store. If you don't have one near you, you can certainly buy it online. You have a Grainger near you but they seem overpriced. I pay $4/ft in Seattle. Grainger is nearly double. At $4/ft, you can see how with a normal application (battery in engine compartment), this is a cheap modification. In addition to the cable, lugs, and heat shrink, a good set of brass marine terminals is ideal:

 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Maybe you shouldn't restore it- you probably have one of the more unique e9's out there and the tree-huggers will love you!
 

adawil2002

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Those moss pictures are very cool especially the 2800 badge, they'd make good calendar shots for next year. As long as they are big enough for print. I'd use them as April. Please take some hi res shots that are 2MB or larger.
 
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