72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration

Got my 85 degree elbow trumpet prototype back from the printers. Pretty cool.

I now need to drill out the pilot holes in the flanges and mount the manifolds, carbs and this trumpet to the old engine in the car to see how it all fits.

Then start looking for someone to either machine these, or cast them. I looked into laser melt metal printing, but the cost was $2500 per unit, so that's not going to happen..

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ScottAndrews said:
What are typical prices for paint these days? (looking of a at least a second data point)...
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i can't really comment from personal experience. my paint was much less, but it also took 5 to 6 years to get back home and i didn't get charged any labor for the painting. he used very expensive materials to get the ceylon correct - about 4.5k ... and about 5k for all of the prep work and disassembly and the cleanup of the engine compartment once the engine was removed. my coupe went in to get a bunch of touchups and he decided to just paint the car ... then we decided on a color change.

my guess is that you could get a nice paint job for 15k to 25k depending on how much take apart you do and how much you put together. the more you do, the less the cost is - if you deliver a bare shell (on wheels), you will probably have 5k of prep, 3k to 5k materials, 4k to 5k paint labor and another 1.5k of cut / polish. the reassembly is significant.
 
rsporsche said:
i can't really comment from personal experience. my paint was much less, but it also took 5 to 6 years to get back home and i didn't get charged any labor for the painting. he used very expensive materials to get the ceylon correct - about 4.5k ... and about 5k for all of the prep work and disassembly and the cleanup of the engine compartment once the engine was removed. my coupe went in to get a bunch of touchups and he decided to just paint the car ... then we decided on a color change.

my guess is that you could get a nice paint job for 15k to 25k depending on how much take apart you do and how much you put together. the more you do, the less the cost is - if you deliver a bare shell (on wheels), you will probably have 5k of prep, 3k to 5k materials, 4k to 5k paint labor and another 1.5k of cut / polish. the reassembly is significant.
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Yeah, this is sort of what I was expecting. $20-$25K. I am planning on starting paint with a bare shell that has all major rust repaired sitting on a rolling dolly. I know there are some minor door dings and such, but it does not appear that the car has ever been crashed or has had any prior rust repair. I am going to do all disassembly and re-assembly.n So the question is, where is the best place to do this sort of paint? Do I do it here in the bay area, ship it to LA, or take it out of state?
 
rsporsche said:
the moving of a rolling shell (on a dolly) is not something i would want to move out of state or a long distance.
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Good point. You did your engine bay and under car work first and then had the body painted, right?

I suppose that's one way to approach it. Get the rust work done, then clean out the engine bay and remove the sub frames. Restore the sub frames, and strip and re-coat the undercarriage, and then reinstall the sub frames and wheels and send that out for paint. Given that there is not a ton of rust work to do, that seems like a reasonable, and safer approach.
 
When I read your proposal and @rsporsche’s reply, my concern was the thought of moving a shell without having the underlying support of a frame. If you are going to ship it somewhere I would do all of the disassembly but send it with body and frame and let the painter lift the body off at their shop / they are equipped to do that easily
 
e9Leveque said:
When I read your proposal and @rsporsche’s reply, my concern was the thought of moving a shell without having the underlying support of a frame. If you are going to ship it somewhere I would do all of the disassembly but send it with body and frame and let the painter lift the body off at their shop / they are equipped to do that easily
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Yep, that's what I am now understanding is the best way to do this. In fact, I think I may just do the underbody myself, install the renovated subframes, and send it to paint on some working wheels.
 
ScottAndrews said:
Good point. You did your engine bay and under car work first and then had the body painted, right?

I suppose that's one way to approach it. Get the rust work done, then clean out the engine bay and remove the sub frames. Restore the sub frames, and strip and re-coat the undercarriage, and then reinstall the sub frames and wheels and send that out for paint. Given that there is not a ton of rust work to do, that seems like a reasonable, and safer approach.
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i didn't have any rust work done ... we didn't find any. i also didn't do any work under the car, the floors / firewall / rockers / inner fenders / outer body were all in good shape. we removed the engine from the top and left the subframes in place, just no engine / transmission. the engine compartment was painted - then the car went back to have the new engine put in - the subframe was removed, repainted and the engine / transmission was put in from underneath. the remainder of the car was painted subsequently.
 
Finally got over to the shop and spent the afternoon pulling the carbs and intake manifolds off the 3.0 engine that is in the car. I confirmed that it is the matching numbers engine for the car, so I'll probably keep it, freshen it up and store it for a future buyer who may want to go back to original.

After removing the existing downdraft intake assembly (what a PITA!! Nearly EVERY nut and bolt is hard to reach!), I test fit my 3D printed manifolds. They fit OK, but I was chagrined to find that while the block of the M30 engine is tilted 30 degrees from vertical, they make up for some of this tilt in the head, so the intake flanges on the head are about 25 degrees. This is, apparently, why the commonly available manifolds (Karsundpartz, available from Pierce, Ireland, and others) are about 18 degrees. With my test manifolds the carbs are basically level, and very close to interfering with all sorts of things. The Karsundpartz units are shorter, and end up with the carbs tilted about 7 degrees from horizontal, which is pretty close to the 5 degrees recommended by Weber.

So, I think in the interest of time and money, I'll just go with the Karsundpartz units. I already ordered and received the Tii booster, and the thermostat offset spacer, so this looks pretty straightforward. The 3D trumpets seem somewhat long too, but I'll need to get some proper hardware to mount all that for fit. I'll probably just stick with standard trumpets for starters and then migrate to a more custom setup later.

Now that I am in this far, and the coolant is all drained out, I'll probably pull the engine soon, and start the engine bay disassembly, in anticipation of doing the floors. Currently waiting on some welding and blasting supplies.

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Yep- check out his reviews.

He has 2 coupes there now.

Perfect Reflections has 6 coupes now, but expensive

FIX Auto-


AI Overview



Fix Auto Berkeley
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I'm curious. Has anyone ever used CSi intake runners with DCOE Webers? Basically replace the CSi plenum with the carbs?
Seems like putting the carbs on top facing the other direction would fit a lot better.

I suppose I'll have to plug the injector ports on the runner-to head manifold... or make a new one that adapts the runners to the head without injectors.

One concern is that the air fuel mixture will need to travel a long way fromthe carbs to the combustion chamber, so this might be a silly idea.
 
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ITB's seem like a great idea. the e30 m3 used them as did the s38. have you seen an increase in power with them or just better tuning
 
sfdon said:
Considered the ITB injection route?

I have several cars being built that way.
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So, to do that would require an S38/M88 intake system (does that fit the M90 head?) as well as an ECU. Does the S38/M88 use individual MAF sensors?

Seems much more complicated than managing triple DCOEs, and way off the E9 reservation..
 
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