It's actually a pretty easy program, but you ave to learn to think in 3D to create the shapes.
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
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IF you need a volunteer to 3D print and trial the part, let me know. I can print 265*265*265 mm
I'm trying to make the step from TinkerCAD to Fusion360. I just need to practice! What better way to do it then creating BMW parts!
I'm trying to make the step from TinkerCAD to Fusion360. I just need to practice! What better way to do it then creating BMW parts!
OK, I think I am 99% there on this. May go print one and see how well it matches
Sure!!! It measures 220 mm x 170 mm x about 30 mm. I'm sure there will be a few hiccups with he bottom recesses (will need supports - but fortunately they don't show)...And we'll probably need to fiddle withthe density, at least in areas that get screws. Might actually make sense to just through bolt those brackets.
Just realized I put the recesses for the metal brackets on the bottom of the window switch holes. They should be on the top. And I need to add the holes for the aluminum strips.. I'll update that.
Can you work with an STL file? You will need to input that to your slicer.
LMK if you want some Fusion tips. I have been using various CAD programs for 30 years, so I have good familiarity, but Fusion, being 3D was a whole different animal. The key for me was learning to swap between "sketch" and "solid" modes, and learning how to create "planes" on which you "sketch" in different locations and at different angles (other than just X,Y, and Z). This is done using the "construct" option on the tool bar. The other valuable tools are Extrude (extends a profile (a closed form sketch in a plane) in one direction, the other direction or both). The extrusion can be additive (New Body) or subtractive (Cut), and related Sweep (moves a profile along a defined path (defined in an appropriate plane in Sketch mode) or Loft, which morphs between two profiles (either a straight path, like Extrude, or along a defined path like Sweep).
To do the console I sketched the frontal profile of the piece (as if you were in front of it looking back) on the base plane (the horizontal plane that you can select at the start of a sketch - the three orange planes you get when you start a sketch), and then defined a plane 170 mm above that, and sketched the aft profile. These profiles had a block on top where the complicated channels for the aluminum trim plates go. I did a straight loft between these profiles to get a basic base for the console (my console has a flat bottom, which I think should be OK), with a rectangular solid block sitting on the top.
I then sketched two new profiles, again on these same planes, which had the more complex ridges and channels for the top of the console. One profile for the front (on the base plane) and another for the back (on the 170 degree offset plane). I then defined a curved line between the two profiles in the Z plane, and did a Loft between the two profiles along the path, this time using the Cut option, which basically carved away the block on the top of the thing I had just made, creating the channels and the raised area where the shifter boot goes.
Once I had that, I used the Spline command on a base plane co-incedent with he bottom go the piece, to define the shape of the shifter hole, and extruded that up using the Cut option to create the hole. Same thing for the window switch holes and the wiper and lighter holes.
The rounded edges were created using the Modify tool (on the solid toolbar) selecting each edge and invoking the "Fillet" option using a 1mm radius.
Sounds easy enough, but you need to play with it a lot, and watch a lot of YouTube Vids to work out the fine details.
When it is ready, I'll send you the Fusion file, which should have the entire timeline along the bottom of the screen. You can "play that" and see what I did at each step.
I assume your printer as a "slicer" program to convert the STL file into a printable file?
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Yeah, i can work with stl files.
And have a skilled 22yr-old colleague as back-up
And have a skilled 22yr-old colleague as back-up
On a road trip taking my interior to LA for renovation. Just passed through Arroyo Grande headed north. Passed the site where Ariel and Graciela were killed, about 2 miles south of town. Burned trees, hole in the brush and a small white marker. Very sad.
glad you took the time to pay homage to them ...
Spent an hour visiting with Erik at Coupe King in LA. Amazing array of vehicles , engines, etc. saw my Scheel seats and dropped the rest of the interior off. Will be done in that grey/ white leather I posted a while back, dash parts and side trims in satin black German vinyl, and carpets in charcoal square weave
Spent a few hours wrestling the exhaust manifolds free from the engine. The exhaust is a rusty mess, so I just undid the manifolds and let the entire assembly drop away - after undoing a bunch of rusty crusty bolts under the car.. Oh Joy..
I found the copper manifold bolts were fairly easy to undo provided you could reach them, but therein lies the trick. The top ones are obviously super easy (after I removed the cool, original, cast aluminum manifold heat guards!). The front lower ones were a bit of an origami exercise, but were accessible using a small socket wrench. The aft under-side ones were a PITA. I finally removed all of the AC stuff to make some room for myself, and then reached under from the front using a 12 mm open end wrench. Slow going..1/8 turn at a time, with time spent re-positioning the wrench totally blind after each turn..Yeesh. But it's now done and won't need to be addressed again. I'm sure the Stahl headers will be a "simple" install
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So tomorrow I dive under the car and get to the driveline and the infamous bell-housing bolts. Hope to have the old lump out of the car by day's end.
Also took few minutes to confirm that my Getrag 265/6 has the speedo connection (yay!). I bought this trans for $200 about 20 years ago from a guy that was parting an early 635. Not a bad investment...
Will pull the diff and half shafts day after tomorrow, Get the bumpers, trim, grilles, etc off, and then start cleaning, dry icing, and wire loom labeling and removal. Aiming to trailer the shell to the body shop by mid March.
Cheers!!
I found the copper manifold bolts were fairly easy to undo provided you could reach them, but therein lies the trick. The top ones are obviously super easy (after I removed the cool, original, cast aluminum manifold heat guards!). The front lower ones were a bit of an origami exercise, but were accessible using a small socket wrench. The aft under-side ones were a PITA. I finally removed all of the AC stuff to make some room for myself, and then reached under from the front using a 12 mm open end wrench. Slow going..1/8 turn at a time, with time spent re-positioning the wrench totally blind after each turn..Yeesh. But it's now done and won't need to be addressed again. I'm sure the Stahl headers will be a "simple" install
.So tomorrow I dive under the car and get to the driveline and the infamous bell-housing bolts. Hope to have the old lump out of the car by day's end.
Also took few minutes to confirm that my Getrag 265/6 has the speedo connection (yay!). I bought this trans for $200 about 20 years ago from a guy that was parting an early 635. Not a bad investment...
Will pull the diff and half shafts day after tomorrow, Get the bumpers, trim, grilles, etc off, and then start cleaning, dry icing, and wire loom labeling and removal. Aiming to trailer the shell to the body shop by mid March.
Cheers!!
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OK, After several tries and some careful re-measuring, here is the first real prototype console.
There will need to be two pieces attached to this, a sloping piece in the front, and a taller rear wall that fits in the rabbet at the aft end.
There will need to be two pieces attached to this, a sloping piece in the front, and a taller rear wall that fits in the rabbet at the aft end.
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looking good! just so you know, the short piece in the front is applicable for AC cars. non-AC cars have a long piece front and rear.
I slightly revised the file above, had forgotten to add the small recesses for the side brackets. These are nailed on in the original, but I made through holes to bolt them on the print version. We may need to recess the bottom, or try threaded holes.
I considered just building the mounting bracket in as part of the structure, but the brackets need to be thin enough to fit next to the window switch, which may not be strong enough if they are part of the structure.
I considered just building the mounting bracket in as part of the structure, but the brackets need to be thin enough to fit next to the window switch, which may not be strong enough if they are part of the structure.
Good to know. I may just do a rabbet similar to the rear for that, so then the main piece is the same for both types
OK, I made a minor tweak. I added a rabbet to the forward end, and added holes for machine screws with blind nuts to hold the front and rear pieces on. Not yet sure how I'll make the front and rear pieces. On the originals they are thin plywood. But using this approach, the core can support both AC and non-AC cars.
Hoo boy. Spent way too much time removing the bell housing bolts. I had forgotten about the crazy one nestled in behind the starter...visible, but effectively impossible to reach from above, and totally blind from below. Figured out that I can get it by attaching a socket with a u-joint and extension from above, then praying it doesn't fall off, go under the car with another extension and u-joint, and connect the two. Only issue is I can't find my second u-joint..So I'll get to that one tomorrow. I recall hating this job when I did my 635, and this one is no easier!
Might try removing the driveline and motor mounts, and lowering the trans next time...
Might try removing the driveline and motor mounts, and lowering the trans next time...
exactly what i was thinking - just drop the whole thing out of the bottom and then take it apart with everything visible.
Believe it or not the toolkit 17mm box from above worked fairly well if I remember.
Must be a really thin edged box wrench! Mine would not fit without grinding the sides off..
That's how I plan to re-assemble it.. From the bottom. Headers and all. The guys next door to my shop have a lift, so I may move the car over there when I reassemble it...