72 CSi rotisserie restoration

[paul]

Howdy all,
I am restoring a 72 LHD Cs which will end up having an M90/B35 engine converted to retro D-Jetronic Fi system. I thought it would be useful info for others travelling down this path.
Car at present is down to a shell/sandblasted/epoxy coated and in the metal fabricators for new bones. attached pics.

cheers.......Paul

 

[DAVE]

Howdy all,
I am restoring a 72 LHD Cs which will end up having an M90/B35 engine converted to retro D-Jetronic Fi system. I thought it would be useful info for others travelling down this path.
Car at present is down to a shell/sandblasted/epoxy coated and in the metal fabricators for new bones. attached pics.

cheers.......Paul

Hi Paul,
You definitely need to remove those front fenders to see what’s left.
Regards Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[paul]

Thanks Dave.....................they will be taken off in the next week as we know there are things going on behind. also replacing both door skins/3 sills each side/tire well in trunk/upper part of front inner guard/front and rear floors each side/ rear lower fenders both sides/front lower fenders both sides........ plus what ever else we find.
will post picks of dash rebuild as well. Solid teak!!
cheers...Paul

 

[bfeng]

"Solid teak"
You are kidding,right?

John

 

[paul]

Hi John,
it will be made up of laminates ....all teak...not plywood laminated. Obviously had to do thin laminates to get around the compound angles.......actually made a fibreglass mould from the old dash and will then use that to work from. (see pic) I had to use epoxy glue to stabilise the old dash before I could make the mould the old rotten dash it was like wheatbix from water leakage around the windscreen.

 

[Dohn]

My coupe's panels were done in teak, and the dash was fine, but the doors needed to be redone. I sent the side panels to Madera Concepts and asked for teak. They said they don't use it because it doesn't hold up to the temperatures in a car. I ended up with French walnut that they finished to match the teak, and it works very well. I know I should have done it all at once, but I wasn't keen to pull the windshield and dash.

 

[paul]

Hi Dohn..............that seems strange as teak is used in boat building and exposed to very high sun temperatures on coachwork in that environment.
Yes I understand..... with these cars once you start digging you don't know what you will find.....I thought my spare tire well looked good until we sandblasted it

 

[autokunst]

Hello Paul. Thank you for creating this thread. I look forward to watching the metal work. Looks like there are more than a few projects going on in that shop.

 

[Dohn]

Hi Dohn..............that seems strange as teak is used in boat building and exposed to very high sun temperatures on coachwork in that environment.

Paul, we were talking about veneer over the existing substrate, rather than solid or multiple plies of teak. I believe their concern was excessive expansion and contraction, resulting in cracks and delamination. As I mentioned, the dash has held up well so far, although I have no idea when it was done. I've only had the car for 18 months. Best of luck with your restoration...

 

[paul]

Ok..................well front fenders removed....some things happening behind. New lower A post will be installed. parts that were not visible after sand blast will be done and epoxy coated then repairs done. floors welded in and ground back and epoxy coated. Walloth and Nesch floor ribbing did not line up properly so some jiggling needed (anyone else find this problem). once we replace all floors and body is firm will attack the sills. More body work pics to come.

 

[paul]

moving on to timber work. all door timbers high gloss finished. dash is still being laminated up will finish soon then high gloss finish.(pics to come) dash parcel tray re upholstered..................used a satin black vinyl....more subtle than the original glossy black I felt.

 

[eriknetherlands]

[QUOTE="...Walloth and Nesch floor ribbing did not line up properly so some jiggling needed (anyone else find this problem). ....[/QUOTE]

Yup, found same misalignment in the floor W&N panels. I noticed:
1. the spacing of the (4?) ribs is not correct. If you align one of the middle ribs, the others don't. The further outward you go, the more they are off center. About 2 and 4 mm in my case. Especially the rear its an issue, as on the front floor from W&N you can (must) make your own if you replace that panel too.
2. the distance front to back of the larger rectangular depression in the rear panel is about 10 mm too short. See the black marker lines in the pic; they indicate a correct position of the panel, but where the front corner makes a nice curve, in the rear of the rear footwell the curve doesn't flow nicely. Needs some carefull hamering.

but hey, it's better then building them yourself.....

To make sure the front and rear W&N panel ribbing lines up, I tacked them together, and ran a bead with a bead roller from the rear, straight through into the front panel. The ribs then automatically line up at least on the front side of the rear panel.

 

[paul]

yes exactly what we did. I was looking thru Stefan Reis Oldtimer BMW the other night and saw a complete floor (front and rear combined ) lh and rh sides................wish I had seen them before I bought these. I suppose the right thing to do is inform Walloth & Nesch of the misalignment.............probably made in China
Did you treat your metalwork immediately after sand blasting?? I notice the door sill is raw metal.

 

[eriknetherlands]

The full floor panels are from Poland.
http://sklep.manufaktura-workshop.pl/index.php/czesci/bmw/

note that they however are also not 100%. The mentioned beads for instance are not continuously made front to rear. Where the panel dips to form the footwell area, the bead stops, and starts again 20 mm further down along the next flat horizontal part. It should not stop but follow the panel downwards. Not easy to solve if you just have a hobby bead roller; the opening in the beadroller usually doesn't allow the full panel to tilt up and down. Beadrollers with larger throught openings do offer that possibility. It's just a minor detail however; I'm happy to see an alternative to BMW and W&N. It'll be good for some competition. They also have some e9 stuff that isn't available elsewhere e.g. the seat supports.

The shiny bit of metal on the pics is actually the tunnel. It's still bare metal after I wire brushed all the old paint off. It'll be chemically treated with a rust converter before applying an Epoxy coat.

 

[paul]

good luck with your resto...................show us some photos when finished.

cheers......Paul

 

[paul]

well another 3 day work bee gone at the fabricators................new spare wheel well in the boot (or trunk as the Americans call it). All floors in with a bit of jiggling. New outer skins on the doors..............glad we did that some rust in behind old ones. next week will attack the sills and lower A Pillar . Amazed at how much these cars rusted. (or is just mine )....anyway all good.

 

[paul]

more pics

 

[paul]

another Thur/Fri/Sat work bee RH and LH side floors in an welded. couple of patches req'd at fire wall where floors meet. Trunk spare wheel well welded in.
Next week inside of door frames will be blasted and cleaned up (along with A pillars) prior to outer skins being welded on to doors. Doors will then be fitted on and gaps checked and even so that when we attack the sills and replace we can maintain good panel gaps. I think all 3 sills need replacing (outer and intermediate anyway)

 

[paul]

Ok..............got the wheels sorted 16x7 front 16x9 rear. BBS RS style. Paul did a great job. My spoiler arrived from Ca. Nardi wheel ready to go.

Converting to power front windows................bit disappointed as I purchased motors on this forum............told they were working.................not so...............took the cover plate off and well..............looks like some moisture has been in there for some time. Located some E28 motors locally so move on .............lessons learned.

 

[Wladek]

Converting to power front windows................bit disappointed as I purchased motors on this forum............told they were working.................not so...............took the cover plate off and well..............looks like some moisture has been in there for some time. Located some E28 motors locally so move on .............lessons learned.

Don't be disappointed about motors - because surface rust is pretty standard thing in them.
Here you have my tutorial:
https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/bosch-window-sunroof-motor-cleaning-refurbishing-tutorial.25249/