Oooo, afraid I’m not a white car guy…I’ve actually never owned a white car..well, a van, but that doesn’t count. The Bav does look really good in Chamonix…just not my style…
73 POLARIS E3 BUILD...Slowly..
- Thread starter StephenZ
- Start date
that's a tough choice, the e3 looks great in chamonix and it looks great in fjord / riviera / baikal ... since Stephen can't do metallic, that would leave Riviera + Chamonix as great choices from my perspective.
rblongboarder
Well-Known Member
Primer looks great ! I assume your car body "rotisserie" is custom built w/ casters ?
PS: Up on the wall... I noticed that your wall-hung scooters and yard tools are wrapped in plastic in your garage spray booth...
PS: Up on the wall... I noticed that your wall-hung scooters and yard tools are wrapped in plastic in your garage spray booth...
Thanks!
Haha! Yeah, it's a small space for sure...
. The other side has tons of stuff covered..also why I can't really shoot metallic in there..I can't do it all at once and would have to do multiple days of shooting which just introduces too many variables for matching the metallic 'laydown'.. had that happen on a copper metallic jeep I had years ago..had to reshoot half of it to match...goodtimes.The body roller is just some scrap steel square tube with heavy casters..without suspension on it, it's too hard to move around. This makes it super easy. Once it's done, I can slice the welds and repurpose the metal and casters for something else..maybe a mobile welding table?
Now I'm changing out the valve cover gasket on my wife's 06 330i...ugh...oil filling the spark plug wells..4 broken bolts I had to drill out...all on the back area of the head...lol. Fun!
rblongboarder
Well-Known Member
@StephenZ : A few posts back you mentioned using Riviera Blue on your car... @HB Chris is selling a 3.0CSi (edit) on BAT in this color. Might give you a few ideas.. the sunlight shots are well done... you can see how this color works on body panels.. when one area is reflecting the sun and another portion is not reflecting the sun..
I've been paying attention to this interaction of body panel shape, color and light because my E3 restoration will not have the body line chrome trim.
I've been paying attention to this interaction of body panel shape, color and light because my E3 restoration will not have the body line chrome trim.
Time for a new thread for this CSi.
bringatrailer.com
Feel free to comment and focus on things you or another coupe lover would appreciate.
Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi
Bid for the chance to own a Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #226,626.
bringatrailer.com
Feel free to comment and focus on things you or another coupe lover would appreciate.
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There is no guarantee this is the correct Riviera, it was painted in Italy, it’s a CSi
I did a spray out of riviera on an e3 fender piece. Nason single stage. It looks pretty solid. VERY different in light vs shade. I think I posted it a while back in this thread. I’m most likely going that direction. I’ll def check out the listing though!
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Check out the difference in the sunlight and shade. Pictures taken :30 apart...It's wild. This is whatever the computer told them for the 70s Riviera blue bmw code we use. Nason single stage. I may do BC/CC for my actual spraying to give myself a lot of depth to wet sand a little..@StephenZ : A few posts back you mentioned using Riviera Blue on your car... @HB Chris is selling a 3.0CSi (edit) on BAT in this color. Might give you a few ideas.. the sunlight shots are well done... you can see how this color works on body panels.. when one area is reflecting the sun and another portion is not reflecting the sun..
I've been paying attention to this interaction of body panel shape, color and light because my E3 restoration will not have the body line chrome trim.
Time for a new thread for this CSi.
Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi
Bid for the chance to own a Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #226,626.
Feel free to comment and focus on things you or another coupe lover would appreciate.
That color change is pretty impressive, but have to say that I like both of them! I'm partial though - the lighter blue looks like the Rivian blue and the darker is similar to my E39's Lemans Blue. I would never imagine both of those in the same vehicle though, so yours will be extra-special.
It's crazy how much it changes, right? I just need the weather to warm up a bit so I can sand the primer and get painting! Meanwhile, I rebuilt the trans and transfer case in my FJ40...that was fun..
I guess I have a couple other threads of questions..I'll try to keep it all here from now on. I got tired of sanding for paint and jumped on the 5spd prep...
I got the shift platform done for my e30 M3 265 getrag conversion. I ended up cutting the Bavaria platform down the required 3.75" and welded it back together so it stayed at the same height, as compared to when it was longer...it raises up as it goes back.
Shortened the linkage rod the same 3.75" and used the connectors from the Bavaria's 262 so i could use my old shifter pieces.
While I was in there, I went ahead and added about 11/16" of length below the pivot ball on the shifter to shorten up the throw a good bit. Seems pretty nice now. I may have to bend the shift lever a little straighter? Any thoughts on that? The 4 spd lever is pretty curved.
Cut the connector off the bottom for lengthening (shortening the throw)
Shortened shift linkage ready to weld
First pass of liquid metal..
After three passes and a smooth out..not super pretty, but strong.
Longer add on below the pivot ball...I added more weld after this to clean it up,,
I made some bushings with delrin to tighten up the shifter action. Works nice!
Shortened platform and linkage all hooked up and tested. I'll pull it apart to paint and tweak anything needed.
I got the shift platform done for my e30 M3 265 getrag conversion. I ended up cutting the Bavaria platform down the required 3.75" and welded it back together so it stayed at the same height, as compared to when it was longer...it raises up as it goes back.
Shortened the linkage rod the same 3.75" and used the connectors from the Bavaria's 262 so i could use my old shifter pieces.
While I was in there, I went ahead and added about 11/16" of length below the pivot ball on the shifter to shorten up the throw a good bit. Seems pretty nice now. I may have to bend the shift lever a little straighter? Any thoughts on that? The 4 spd lever is pretty curved.
Cut the connector off the bottom for lengthening (shortening the throw)
Shortened shift linkage ready to weld
First pass of liquid metal..
After three passes and a smooth out..not super pretty, but strong.
Longer add on below the pivot ball...I added more weld after this to clean it up,,
I made some bushings with delrin to tighten up the shifter action. Works nice!
Shortened platform and linkage all hooked up and tested. I'll pull it apart to paint and tweak anything needed.
Oh, one important question. Does anyone know the measurement of the 4 speed trans from front mount to back of the yoke? I removed all my stuff and realized afterwards that the M3 yoke is thicker and I removed the speedo drive gear from the 4 speed and installed it in the 5 speed, so I can't get an accurate measurement for drive shaft cutting...I was assuming the 3.75" difference, but I'm now not sure if the yokes sat at the same depth...
EDIT: All good, sfdon hooked me up with some much needed measurements. Thank you!!
EDIT: All good, sfdon hooked me up with some much needed measurements. Thank you!!
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Shifting gears for a minute while sanding continues. I have, what I believe was, the original radio that came with my car. It’s an early 70’s Panasonic cr-701eu. I’m hoping to use it but maybe swap the internals for a Bluetooth set up so it looks stock but maybe has a usb-c out the back? Does anyone know if that’s a diy thing or do I need a company to do it? I’d love to do it myself. I haven’t looked into it yet, just thought it would be a fun topic to discuss.
I (and others) have chosen the Retrosound option. They have radios that look like old radios but have Bluetooth, USB, etc. At baseline they have a screen with the old-school digits, but even offer a screen cover that looks like the radio dial you have on that picture above so that someone looking at it wouldn’t necessarily know. Their Europa model is the one that matches to the German style of the 70s.
I’ve seen those, and was figuring that was the direction I’d end up going, but I thought it would be fun to have the original case with new guts. I may just pull it apart and see what I can do with it.
There’s always the Bluetooth to radio frequency option that we used to use before radios had it integrated. That works but is a bit obnoxious because the sound quality isn’t great and as you drive you sometimes need to change frequencies to avoid conflicting with nearby stations. But I agree, tear it apart and see what options you have, the retrosound is a good bailout. I also got their smaller sub which works well and in my case can fit underneath the rear seats along with the amplifier
Oh yeah, I remember those. I’ll dive in and see what’s out there and update as I figure out my path.