74 Restomod

WALTER

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Jackpot (I think). Tough to see with all the grease, but the “S” is stamped there on the side. How do you decode the numbers to determine the ratio? Above the S I see the number 10 with a number 3 to the right; below I see 11 40.
My coupe is a fairly stock 74, 4spd manual which I didn’t think came with the LSD, but the previous owner had a Miata race car, so he may have added a little performance to this ride.
 

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HB Chris

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Too bad these topics aren’t frequently seen by members:

 

WALTER

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Too bad these topics aren’t frequently seen by members:



Sorry, got a little giddy after hitting the differential jackpot and forgot the search function.
 

WALTER

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I’m in the process of restoring as much of my coupe as I can do myself. I’ve got boxes of trim/rubber that I got from the restoration shop to clean and polish, some of which I don’t think is for my car. Can anyone confirm that these parts are not for the e9:
 

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WALTER

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I need some more help id’ing parts again. I believe they are from a different car.
 

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WALTER

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Looking for the group’s wisdom here…I am in need of replacing my front and rear windows and have been building my coupe with shedding some weight in mind. Can you run lexan/plexiglass windows on a street car or is the safety risk for the front window in particular too great? I have read that a few of you have plexiglass rear, side windows but that they are fixed in place; is that because rolling them up and down would cause scratches?
 

Keshav

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I have read that a few of you have plexiglass rear, side windows but that they are fixed in place; is that because rolling them up and down would cause
The light weight CSLs had rear and rear side plexiglass fixed which were purely for weight saving. Some CSLs had rear side glass fixed too as did the later 2.5CS also for weight saving purposes. Lexan in the UK has a complete Lexan set (8 pieces) for the E9.

 

WALTER

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The light weight CSLs had rear and rear side plexiglass fixed which were purely for weight saving. Some CSLs had rear side glass fixed too as did the later 2.5CS also for weight saving purposes. Lexan in the UK has a complete Lexan set (8 pieces) for the E9.

Keshav,

Thanks for the response. So, the the fixed glass or plexiglass was to eliminate the supporting mechanisms/motors to save weight? Do you know if plexiglass is prone to scratching and therefore not a good choice for a working window?
 

Keshav

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That’s right Walter, purpose was purely to save weight. And yes, plexiglass is softer and more prone to scratches than glass is. Although the polycarbonate quality is way better than what was used in the CSLs.
The weight savings were not primarily glass vs plexiglass, rather the mechanism, electric vs manual/ static. Together they made for significant weight savings.
 

JFENG

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My 2 cents

Plexiglass or Lexan windows are ok for a street car, depending on your willingness to deal with the compromises:
(1) significantly lower clarity amd greater optical distortion
(2) higher maintenance (cleaning & polishing).

For a front window I would go with 5/16” or thicker lexan and plan on regular polishing and more frequent replacement. If you use windshield wipers you will have a lot more maintenance. It is safer than laminated auto glass in terms of breakage and puncture penetration, but it’s probably not as safe if your head impacts it in a crash because it won’t break before your skull crushes. Remember to be careful with window stickers as you can’t remove them with a razor blade. Also, don’t use windex and paper towels (they will scratch). Use something like Meguiars plastic polish w a new microfiber towel ( plastic cleaner and a random orbit polisher w foam pad for scratch removal).

I have had 4 cars that used some combination of plastic front/side windows
They all had fixed or horizontally sliding (overlapping) side windows. Yes, they do get scratched up over time, and rather quickly if they are used a lot. One has fixed Lexan side screens, and they are in amazingly good shape after a full decade of light use. A key factor is they don’t slide against anything and I store them an a protective bag when they are off the car.

If weight savings is really important, I would start with a CF hood & trunk lid (with prop rods), then fiberglass bumpers. The front seats also weigh a lot compared to a fixed-back GRP bucket seat. You could replace your side windows with plastic, but you should go with a sliding sub-window so you can remove the heavy lift mechanism (metal).
 

WALTER

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My 2 cents

Plexiglass or Lexan windows are ok for a street car, depending on your willingness to deal with the compromises:
(1) significantly lower clarity amd greater optical distortion
(2) higher maintenance (cleaning & polishing).

For a front window I would go with 5/16” or thicker lexan and plan on regular polishing and more frequent replacement. If you use windshield wipers you will have a lot more maintenance. It is safer than laminated auto glass in terms of breakage and puncture penetration, but it’s probably not as safe if your head impacts it in a crash because it won’t break before your skull crushes. Remember to be careful with window stickers as you can’t remove them with a razor blade. Also, don’t use windex and paper towels (they will scratch). Use something like Meguiars plastic polish w a new microfiber towel ( plastic cleaner and a random orbit polisher w foam pad for scratch removal).

I have had 4 cars that used some combination of plastic front/side windows
They all had fixed or horizontally sliding (overlapping) side windows. Yes, they do get scratched up over time, and rather quickly if they are used a lot. One has fixed Lexan side screens, and they are in amazingly good shape after a full decade of light use. A key factor is they don’t slide against anything and I store them an a protective bag when they are off the car.

If weight savings is really important, I would start with a CF hood & trunk lid (with prop rods), then fiberglass bumpers. The front seats also weigh a lot compared to a fixed-back GRP bucket seat. You could replace your side windows with plastic, but you should go with a sliding sub-window so you can remove the heavy lift mechanism (metal).
Thanks for the reply. I’m understanding now that replacing the side windows with plastic ones really only makes sense if you fix them in place to eliminate the heavy mechanisms/motors, so I won’t go that route as I want them to work.

I’ve eliminated the front US bumpers and will go with a fiberglass CSL rear one. Very interested if you know of a source for CF hood and trunk.
 

WALTER

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Holley Sniper EFI mounted to 4bbl intake, Scott Drake air cleaner. Not sure yet if the air cleaner will clear the hood; will order a smaller one if necessary. Air cleaner will be painted gloss to match valve cover.
 

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WALTER

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Anyone have a source for an e9 brake hard line kit? Ireland Engineering is out of stock; W&N has the hard lines but not pre-bent plus shipping takes a while. Any help appreciated.
 
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