Car lift for a home garage use.

Forgot to show rebar design.
Actually went 9” on depth, #4 (1/2”) rebar is at 6” on center, 12” #4 rebar drilled 6” into existing slab perimeter and epoxied into holes. Left over rebar tied diagonally in corners. Rebar set at 6” depth will be out the way of drilling for 7” Hilti anchor drilling. Then 4500lb concrete with 1% non-chlorinated accelerator added. Then finished. Covered with insulated blankets to aid in concrete hydration (curing) for at least 7 days. At 7 days concrete will reach approximately 70% strength and posts can be set.
Okay, that’s a series footing.
 
So I’m Luke warm again on the lift. I have very limited space. The height is 142 at the shallow end and I think I’m at roughly 12-1/4 on the pitch.

the lift will be centered, I won’t get an extra spot, but I will be able to work around the car on the bottom if needed with plenty of space to walk around the garage.

I’m just trying to talk out loud my self into the install. Lol. I may need footings, which is not that big of a deal I guess.
10 pounds of shit-5 pound bucket!
 

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Gents,

I would like to refresh this topic

Is there any model of the 2-post lift which is having accessory option for the wheels stands in place of scissor-like arms?

I'm wondering if keeping the car with the wheels hanging freely is good for suspension.

From construction of the floor garage is prepared for 2-post only and scissor-shape lifting arms are very useful for repairs of the suspension.

Not sure it is possible to have the lift for both: long time car storage and repairs with the same type (but accessories).
 
You mean like this one ?

Tire engaging adapter
Which looks very convenient to use if your lift arms are long enough

or
I think a home made could be even better
Custom adapters
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Or like this one ($$$)?
Drive-on adapter

If your main use is storage, I recommend a 4-post storage lift. I have a 4-post drive in storage lift with a sliding bridge jack (1 but 2 of you prefer). I also drilled the cross members for a narrow and a wide ramp spacing. The narrow spacing is good for narrower classic cars and the wide for a modern SUV or small truck. I have $10 sliding metal drip trays because all my classic cars leak a bit of oil but I use the area underneath for a second car and as workshop space (LED strip light to the underside of the ramp).

4-post is less convenient for suspension and brake work, but great for exhaust, powertrain/drivetrain. It is also better if you park a daily-use car next to the lift because there is no post to block opening the doors of that other car.
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If I were doing repairs every weekend or a bare-body restoration I would buy a 2-post lift with lifting arms.
 
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When working I had access to a shop with a 4-post lift and loved it for all types of work. Unfortunately at home I have low garage ceiling height and the pad thickness is unknown, so I have a low-tech drive on lift that has a fixed lift of 20" from the floor to the bottom of the tires.

This is a real compromise and I would prefer a 4-post or, there are some really interesting single-post lifts that I would consider.

The lift shown is a Kwik-lift (no longer in production), with a lift bridge that will allow the car to be jacked up for suspension or other work.

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Thank you @JFENG and @boonies for your kind feedback. It's great to see some options.

Selection of the accessories here is not as wide and in US, but the examples are just great for further considerations.

Four post lift is rather out of my reach as the concrete floor has already been prepared for standard two post. Also the garage is not so huge as Yours so four columns will completely take all space around.

The purpose is for repairs during during spring/summer and storage during winter time with another car below

Height is not a problem in the case. Theoretically it would be even possible to have another level at the top (to store another car?). It should be doable with some more investment. :cool:
 
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I’ve never seen this before now. That design could be improved so that it’s more of a curved plate to cradle the tire and help it from flat spotting in one or two locations. Thanks for sharing this pic. Got to get or fab me some of these to stick in my lift for storage solution
 
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I’ve never seen this before now. That design could be improved so that it’s more of a curved plate to cradle the tire and help it from flat spotting in one or two locations. Thanks for sharing this pic. Got to get or fab me some of these to stick in my lift for storage solution
Sure. If my garage were 10ft wider, I’d get a 2-post lift and make a set of adapters like this. You could get really fancy and design them w an adjustment to fit a variety of tire diameters. One advantage of my 4-post drive on lift is that I can stand on the ramps to work on cars that are up in the air when there is still a car parked underneath. I just have to remember not to take a step backwards :-o to be safe, I only do that on the ramp that is up against the wall (12” gap).
 
Is any difference for long time car storage for 2-post lift if it will be electrical one or hydraulic? Some say hydraulic is long lasting having special locks and standard one can experience worn out of the main worm gear thread.

What's your experience? Hydraulic or cheaper pure electric lift?

Does it make sense to buy used or only new? There are companies which are giving some warranty of the used ones they are selling and mounting.
 
A well designed spring should last for decades and only wear due when the cycles compression/extensions exceed the design target. Therefore storing the car with a static load should not degrade springs.

In contrast, the control arm bushings are designed to be ‘unloaded’ when the normal weight of the car on the suspension. At full drop, suspension bushings are therefore under continuous/static stress, which I think is bad for rubber/plastics (they can creep and fatigue). The solution, if you are storing a car long term with the suspension unloaded is to loosen the suspension bolts/nuts and maybe disassemble the front struts.

Tires are best stored with no pressure, no weight, no light and no oxygen. Hard to achieve when they are on the vehicle, but a 2-post lift is better because you can deflate them.

I chose to store all my cars with the normal weight in the suspension (but the tires inflated an extra 10PSI).

That’s my 2 cents
 
@JFENG . Once again for sharing your experience and suggestions.

Might be that removing wheels be a kind of comprimise.
For sure rubber bushings are possible victims for the suspension hanging freely.
Maybe it is anyhow better than car standing on a floor several months isn't it?

There is a plenty of offers of used electric lifts but some mechanics were warning about the warm gear wear for such lifts. Could be an effect of hundreds of cycles? No own experience here.

Hydraulic are looking more complicated having the motor as a pump, bucket of oil and pressure hoses with the gears also in.
 
If this is useful info to anyone, here's my lift details. I have an Atlas four-post with extended height. (XH-PRO8000EXT) I've had the hydraulics replaced under warranty (leaking cylinder) but other than that, it's been a champ. I opted for the four-post because my garage floor has radiant heat and thus I can't anchor posts to the floor. I was more interested in storage, anyway. In terms of overhead height, my lift is in an bay of the garage with a shed roof above, 13' at the peak where it adjoins the inside wall. The track for the door's horizontal run is at 134" off the floor. Even when I max out the lift with my coupe on it, the rear window is still a good 12" from the top edge of the garage door. Obviously, a bigger car, or one positioned farther to the door end of the lift wouldn't clear the door at max opening. I'm 6'2" and I can fully walk under the lift when its at its maximum height. Atlas does make jack accessories that let you use a four-poster to lift a car on the frame or jack points, but I don't have those...

Pics for reference. (I was actually repositioning the lift with its wheel attachments today so....)
 

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