Car lift for a home garage use.

Forgot to show rebar design.
Actually went 9” on depth, #4 (1/2”) rebar is at 6” on center, 12” #4 rebar drilled 6” into existing slab perimeter and epoxied into holes. Left over rebar tied diagonally in corners. Rebar set at 6” depth will be out the way of drilling for 7” Hilti anchor drilling. Then 4500lb concrete with 1% non-chlorinated accelerator added. Then finished. Covered with insulated blankets to aid in concrete hydration (curing) for at least 7 days. At 7 days concrete will reach approximately 70% strength and posts can be set.
 

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tferrer said:
@Mot27cars - Nice! I was thinking you could set the anchors in the concrete during the pour? Do you want to be able to remove them if required?
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I could have used “L” shaped anchors set in the concrete by making a plywood pattern board. I thought that with the precise location of the lift post measurements that it would be easier this way. Not sure it would be very easy to actually remove these at a later date. They are expansion type anchors.
 
Mot27cars said:
I could have used “L” shaped anchors set in the concrete by making a plywood pattern board. I thought that with the precise location of the lift post measurements that it would be easier this way. Not sure it would be very easy to actually remove these at a later date. They are expansion type anchors.
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I'd be interested in the approximate cost of the concrete work, if you don't mind sharing.
 
Ohmess said:
I'd be interested in the approximate cost of the concrete work, if you don't mind sharing.
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Beings that I’ve been a contractor since 1979, I did this my self. I did have to rent a concrete saw as I no longer have one.
1. Concrete saw rental 100.00
2. Rebar 100.00
3. Epoxy 25.00
4. 1-1/4 yards 4500lb concrete. 337.00
A hundred of that was for minimum order. (Any delivery less than 4yards adds 100.00.)
5. Hilti anchors 68.00
Total costs approximately $630.00
Had I hired it out probably $1500.00 or so. Probably closer to 2000.00
 
Mot27cars said:
Beings that I’ve been a contractor since 1979, I did this my self. I did have to rent a concrete saw as I no longer have one.
1. Concrete saw rental 100.00
2. Rebar 100.00
3. Epoxy 25.00
4. 1-1/4 yards 4500lb concrete. 337.00
A hundred of that was for minimum order. (Any delivery less than 4yards adds 100.00.)
5. Hilti anchors 68.00
Total costs approximately $630.00
Had I hired it out probably $1500.00 or so. Probably closer to 2000.00
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Yeah, I'm probably not taking a concrete saw to my floor. A man's got to know his limitations.
 
The choice is personal as to your needs. I wanted a moveable lift. Had this installed last November and has been invaluable for working on the car. It's not as easy to swap tires as a two post other wise fits the need.
 

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pickman said:
The choice is personal as to your needs. I wanted a moveable lift. Had this installed last November and has been invaluable for working on the car. It's not as easy to swap tires as a two post other wise fits the need.
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That's about how close my lift will get my coupe to the ceiling. I have to watch closely as the lift will go much higher and I have the safety switch up in the rafters currently (so the car will not trigger it).
 
pickman said:
The choice is personal as to your needs. I wanted a moveable lift. Had this installed last November and has been invaluable for working on the car. It's not as easy to swap tires as a two post other wise fits the need.
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I have the same Atlas lift, albeit the taller (extended height) version since I have more overhead room. Been very happy with it (other than a hydraulic cylinder seal leak), but leveling is tricky depending on the pitch of your garage floor. FWIW, Atlas makes a sliding jack (yeah, $900) that fits between the two decks for easier wheel removal. Also FWIW, if your aim is good, you can get the rear wheels off the ground via the lift by lowering the car onto a capable jack stand under the diff. Just don't miss. For the fronts, if your aim is REALLY good and you can locate your tires toward the outside edges of the lift decks, left or right, it's possible to lower the frame rails onto a jack stand one side at a time to "lift" one of front wheels at a time off the deck. Did I mention not to miss?
 
dave v. in nc said:
Things are tough around here..here's a pic of the two post system that I got the other day. Cost me six bills. ($6) Pretty cool tho.View attachment 129580
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I used to use these as my two post lift. A pair of scissors jacks made by Oshkosh Truck to lift Humvees that I got for free. I had to add the wooden blocks because my coupe lacks the round jack point that a Humvee has:

20211110_160536.jpg
 
I’m confident that I will have no lift in my future. My home addition/remodel budget was drafted well before the supply chain nightmare! I can get a lift or a section of counter top. :D
 
Markos said:
I’m confident that I will have no lift in my future. My home addition/remodel budget was drafted well before the supply chain nightmare! I can get a lift or a section of counter top. :D
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You never know what kind of a deal you may come across……
 
pickman said:
The choice is personal as to your needs. I wanted a moveable lift. Had this installed last November and has been invaluable for working on the car. It's not as easy to swap tires as a two post other wise fits the need.
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More Comments from the gallery
The 4 post doesn’t technically require anchors. They actually make casters to move them around in your shop.
And I do move the 4 poster a few times a year. Out in summer, in for winter, a little this way or that way depending on the task at hand. A neighbour has his outside on four pavers in the gravel. I have had one corner post half on, and half off the edge of the pad, (with An E3 on the lift), and experienced no concrete damage.
that said, I do understand why one might anchor it

i wanted to mention. Re the 4 post…
A couple of scissor lifts or short bottle jacks on the sliding platform make it possible to get the jacks in place and wheels off without crawling around on concrete setting up the 2 post arms.
all those shops that lift customers cars from the factory jacks points (the ones you see on BaT) are saving themselves from sore knees and torn pants…

Re the 2 post:
anchored the 2 post with 4 inch lag in expansion anchors.
it’s a much bigger event to move the 2 post. I’ll fill the old lagbolt holes with epoxy.
The 12.5 foot ceiling and the clear floor option (cable I top instead of under a dotted bump on the floor) is big plus. My shop is tiny so I need the double stacking and still be about to walk under
One thing I didn’t plan for is…
6 foot lift on a 2 post does Not give 6 foot headroom because the wheels are hanging lower than the lift points.
One bangs ones head into the wheels or worse, brake parts. DAMHIK

some one once said said…” if I had more time this would be shorter “
 
Mot27cars said:
You never know what kind of a deal you may come across……
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That is very good advice. Spread the word amongst local car folk that you are looking for a lift. You might find some real deals this way. A few years ago a 2 post and TWO drive on storage lifts came up around here. One storage lift was free for the price of removal, and the other two were each less than the price of a Petri.

John
 
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