Car lift for a home garage use.

Ohmess said:
Markos - I bought an engine support bar several years ago in order to change the steering box in my e39 to the M5 box. It supported the engine while I dropped the subframe a few inches. If I had gone in the direction of one of these jacks, I was thinking of using that bar across the scissors jack. The bar could rest on the scissors jack directly underneath the rear subframe bushing attachment, with the rubber blocks on top of the bar between the top of the cross bar and the car.

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I’d want something beefy made with rectangular steel tube, but we are definitely on the same page!

At any rate, my lift is still pipe dream. By the time my garage is finished I won’t be able to afford a HF floor jack! Doesn’t mean I can’t design the slab for a “someday lift” :D
 
bfeng said:
There are “mobile”scissor jacks which have adjustable arms sort of like a two poster.

Here is an example: APlusLift HW-SL6600X Mid Rise

I don’t like them because the cross frame is always in the way.

How about a MaxJax?
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Well, I have a similar scissor system, and indeed the cross frame is in the way. But....there is a solution!

I welded 4 strong steel boxes to put under the wheels, or with a wooden beam, under the sills or front frame rails. Then you can lower the lift, taking the cross beam out of the way.
Basically it then is like a 4 poster, but using much less space. ( my garage is really, really small)
 
Markos said:
I’d want something beefy made with rectangular steel tube, but we are definitely on the same page!

At any rate, my lift is still pipe dream. By the time my garage is finished I won’t be able to afford a HF floor jack! Doesn’t mean I can’t design the slab for a “someday lift” :D
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This thing is basically two rectangular steel tubes welded together with end caps and a couple of spacers in the middle. If you make your own, the length of this engine lift is pretty handy. Long enough to do what is necessary, but not so long as to be unweildy. Stores on its end most anywhere.
 
My 2 cents - go for both!,
my 2 post is asymmetrical and you can use it in forward or reverse. if I back in to the asymmetrical I can open the doors all the way. At least on my e30s. I haven’t tried it with the coupe. It’s pain to walk around the 2 posts if you are doing chest high work. Especially in a narrow space.But I would definitely use a 2 post for engine /subframe drops.. If you need to store a car on the 2 post it helps to take the tires and wheels off. the worst part of a two post is getting too old to enjoy crawling on the concrete to position the arms.

The four Post makes it easy to clean up shop. pile all the stuff on the ramps and raise it up! Boom, clear floor...I made some wooden bridges that I use to support, say an exhaust, or with bottle jacks to lift the car or drain pans to catch drips. But I find the 4 post ramps are in the way for many jobs. for example, you can’t get a clear shot at the rocker panels on a 4 post.
 
eriknetherlands said:
Well, I have a similar scissor system, and indeed the cross frame is in the way. But....there is a solution!

I welded 4 strong steel boxes to put under the wheels, or with a wooden beam, under the sills or front frame rails. Then you can lower the lift, taking the cross beam out of the way.
Basically it then is like a 4 poster, but using much less space. ( my garage is really, really small)
Click to expand...
This sounds very intriguing. Do you have a picture of it by any chance, Erik?
 
Recently bought an an Amgo 408-P: https://www.nhproequip.com/4-post-lift-8000lb-408-p-amgo-hydraulics

Was screwed over by Mitch Chance stay away from Gemini Auto Lifts. Never thought I would get scammed.

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I talked to the city about my 3rd bay buildout. My plan was to build out the mold for a bendpack recessed scissor. The planner mentioned that due to the 6”ish recess it will need a drain, and possibly an oil/water separator.

My goal is to pass inspection. So now my plan is to still run the conduit to the center of the new bay and reinforce the rectangle perimeter with rebar. I can the cut the concrete later and pour a new recessed pad. Even though the slab is new, I don’t want to deal with any plumbing under my existing slab. Been there done that and certainly not worth the effort for a recessed lift.

I’ve already cut and jack hammered my existing basement slab for a shower, and made concrete countertops. I think I can handle the lift fitment post inspection. :)

Option B is to simply get the version that rests on the slab.
 
Markos said:
I talked to the city about my 3rd bay buildout. My plan was to build out the mold for a bendpack recessed scissor. The planner mentioned that due to the 6”ish recess it will need a drain, and possibly an oil/water separator.

My goal is to pass inspection. So now my plan is to still run the conduit to the center of the new bay and reinforce the rectangle perimeter with rebar. I can the cut the concrete later and pour a new recessed pad. Even though the slab is new, I don’t want to deal with any plumbing under my existing slab. Been there done that and certainly not worth the effort for a recessed lift.

I’ve already cut and jack hammered my existing basement slab for a shower, and made concrete countertops. I think I can handle the lift fitment post inspection. :)

Option B is to simply get the version that rests on the slab.
Click to expand...

Not directly relevant, but over here you have to have an oil/water separator in your garage floor drain, if you're going to have a floor drain.
At least in the past, that was quite expensive compared to a regular floor drain, so people used to just put in water pipes but conceal them until inspection was done.
Same for the floor drain, they put in a regular floor drain, but when the slab was poured, they put thin plastic on top of it, and poured the slab sligthly higher than the drain.
So after passed inspection, it was just a matter of installing the last of the water pipes and a couple of hits with the sledgehammer = voila!

Maybe you could conceal the recesses in your floor using the same idea.
Put in some polystyrene insulation, pour the slab a little bit higher. Crack it open and dig out the polystyrene once inspection is passed ;)
 
Have a mobile scissor lift in the home garage and a automotech 2m rise scissor lift in the workshop.

The mobile lifts cross brace does get in the way but the arms that extend out and round it are very helpful with a coupe, takes up minimal space too.

Couldn't live without the mobile lift. Not used the big one enough to comment yet.

NcgqeEx.jpg
 
Gransin said:
Not directly relevant, but over here you have to have an oil/water separator in your garage floor drain, if you're going to have a floor drain.
At least in the past, that was quite expensive compared to a regular floor drain, so people used to just put in water pipes but conceal them until inspection was done.
Same for the floor drain, they put in a regular floor drain, but when the slab was poured, they put thin plastic on top of it, and poured the slab sligthly higher than the drain.
So after passed inspection, it was just a matter of installing the last of the water pipes and a couple of hits with the sledgehammer = voila!

Maybe you could conceal the recesses in your floor using the same idea.
Put in some polystyrene insulation, pour the slab a little bit higher. Crack it open and dig out the polystyrene once inspection is passed ;)
Click to expand...

Hmm food for thought. It makes no sense
to add a drain. If that recess filled up with oil
or water I have bigger issues to content with.
 
I read all the articles but has anyone used one successfully? I have read on other forums users place them one in the front and one in the back vs along the sides, but trying to see if anyone has had success.

Also where are the actual lift points? Sorry newb and finally working on car:)
 
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