D-Jetronic Rebuild

Sfdon: Yes! Please; I'll take two!
I'm grateful for the heads-up on "Petaluma". I'm completely unable to recognize BS or wrong information when it comes to mechanical specifics.
Something must be going on with "Petaluma"; late sixties, very nice, tries to be helpful, but maybe (like me) stayed up too late too many nights in a row... Led Zeplin's third was just too much. In which case, I think I'll still be able to enjoy his company - and if it's BS I'm hearing, I'm not picky.
I'll listen more to your sirens, Sfdon. I don't drink, but I'll bring a bottle of a good Russian River Valley with me. My wife likes Merlot, but the Pinot is the **** I hear.
Ordered parts from various vendors... Only thing that came is the wire set -- after 8 to 10 days? Damn; not like Summit or the other easy American parts that are 2-3 days. This weekend I'll work on going through that thread Ed G sent so I'll be a little more versed in the 3.0 fuel system.
Tell me when and where I can come shopping; I'd feel a lot better having a strong motor on a stand ready to go.
 

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12doplumbing said:
Ordered parts from various vendors... Only thing that came is the wire set -- after 8 to 10 days? Damn; not like Summit or the other easy American parts that are 2-3 days. This weekend I'll work on going through that thread Ed G sent so I'll be a little more versed in the 3.0 fuel system.
Click to expand...

What "wire set" did you buy? I didn't see the reference
 
as one of the norcal hints...

A lot of us order from RM European in Colorado.
Simple reason is that they ship from Newark here in the Bayarea.
Thats because they are affiliated with SSF.
You buy in colorado, they ship from Newark, it arrives next day at home.

Autohausaz... buy in AZ, they ship to Memphis?, over to Texas, and then back to California, up to Reno and over to bayarea. See package in 8-10 days.
 
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RM European

Is this the lead/connector I've been searching for?
Part Number:
1-287-013-003
Terminal Repair Kit for 2 Prong Injector Type Plug
I believe so... Thanks for the help in finding a vendor with at least some stuff, Sfdon
 
Found some

Issues when I checked injector leads: cylinder 1 had a wire lead which could have been broken before I pulled a little to remove and clean.
Replaced ground at firewall/block, ground at battery to body and added an 8ga ground from battery to firewall sistered to existing block/firewall ground (?). Also replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil and am waiting for points because I kept receiving smaller sized cap and rotor for my year and model than what I have in it. Anyone understand why? So I was wondering if points were wrong too?
It seems to be running almost perfect but there is that little bit of hesitation when throttling between second and third usually -- before it was a lot worse of a hesitation and more of a cough. Feels like it idles better, cold start idle was a lot higher, and warm idle a lot smoother. Waiting for points... Hope I get right ones.
 

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Update

Have the new connector leads for the injectors, but they don't look like they'll fit
Why the heck can't I upload more than one photo? Is it my ipad?
Anyway, was going to solder some new wire leads into these connectors that I bought from Autohausz AZ but they don't look like they'll work on my D-Jet injectors - they won't, actually.
Anyone know where I can find those male connectors and boots? Or do we just go with some injector upgrade which these leads will fit anyway? My injectors, if original -- shouldn't I be swapping these by now anyway?
 

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I've decided to mail off these injectors to Fuel Injection Corp for rebuild, per Sfdon's advice. I already replaced the coil, plugs, wires, cap, fuel filter... Found out there were no points -- that there is a Pertronics system in my distributor (don't know what the symptoms are for a failing Pertronics system or what differences there are in setting the distributor/twisting it for timing purposes when a Pertronics is installed, so I am floating a reminder in my wide-open head to research this next). The electrical leads to the injectors? I received the new ends to redo the leads but they don't fit on my injectors... Maybe Fuel Injection Corp will have the correct male leads.
Interested in hearing suggestions on whether or not to keep this stock fuel rail and reinstall it? Once I remove the injectors from it, are there any recommendations on how to clean it? How about the fuel regulator; should this be replaced just because I'm here and it's cheap enough to do the right thing?
I would like to post a complete album of step by mis-step pictures here so those that know better can wince and say "No-No-No don't do that, you D-A" (that's acceptable swearing code on our neighborhood basketball court; means Dumb Ass). I just don't know how to do that nice large photo on top of photo post for you.
 

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Okay, Mako / kwyjibo may've helped this photo deficiency problem

The injectors are out and getting ready to ship.

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Starting to get this multiple photo process. What's that little f-ER from? The regulator? Tiny filter screen appeared when I dismantled rail...

Should paint this intake. Color? Anyone?
 
That made me laugh. What does it do to you? Nauseate? I understand. I liked this intake (don't paint the rib cage black?):
 

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A final word here, just to keep this all in the D-Jet thread. I finally got my car running again, and, counter to popular opinion, you can tear up the ECU. We talked to about four different folks who are "in the know" about D-Jets and all said they had never seen one that failed, "your tech doesn't know these systems". Actually, he does, he has one of the best trouble shooting techniques I've ever seen. Very straightforward and methodical. David at Autobahn-werke in Houston.

As I mentioned earlier, I had put too long a mounting screw into the FI timing points mounting plate in the distributer and grounded out either pin 21 or 22, probably shorting out one of the power transistors in th ECU. I sent the ECU to ECUDoctors in Florida but all they did was re-solder some of the components but failed to find the problem, even after I described exactly what we had found. :cry: And charged me $175 for my trouble.

We finally bought a known, functioning ECU from La Jolla, installed it, and the car runs perfectly now! Even better, smoother, than before all this started.

So yes, I appear to be the first dufus in 40 years to burn up a D-Jet ECU but it can be done! Just watch out when replacing stuff that you get the new stuff to exactly match to old stuff.

I'm going to send the old ECU to EPS-Elektronik in Germany for rebuild. So I should have a spare soon if somebody needs one. We also determined that, contrary to popular lore, you don't absolutely have to have the MAP matched up to the ECU.
 
Starter is out!

sfdon said:
Good work .....
Click to expand...

I had to remove the lower intake where the injectors mount JUST TO GET THE OLD STARTER OUT. At least, I felt I'd never accomplish removal if I didn't.
The new 850 starter seemed to have a tiny bit more room around the bolt head -- enough to get my socket over. I'm going to figure out how I was able to post all those pictures again, so I can offend the pros.
 

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