Is your car originally Taiga?!!!
Haha, yes! The car was originally Taiga. I do actually really like the colour taiga, but I’m having a hard time convincing myself to do all of this work, completely rebuilding a car and then painting it a colour that somebody else chose. I am 99% sure I’ll paint it back to Taiga.. there is just 1% in me daydreaming about other colours..
Haha, thanks. Yeah it was lucky on one hand that there wasn’t too much rust underneath, but on the other hand we found some nasty metal work that doesn’t look too pretty either.. now pretty much everything will get redone. Ohh yeah the scope creep is real!Beautiful work James! I was so worried that the story was going to turn much darker when you removed the black rubbery crap. But the damage seemed localized, and it looks like you cut it out and repaired it nicely. Congrats! Cant' wait to see pics of it all together so you can enjoy the refreshed engine and new suspension.
The scope creep is consistent with so many of our projects. "I think I'll change the oil. While there..." Again, nice work!
Don’t think I have any here, but it doesn’t look like anything special. Most of the exhaust looks to have been replaced fairly recently.I would be interested in photos of the exhaust manifold...
Thankyou!Sorry! I just realized I hijacked this thread! Keep it coming, we all want to see more of your special car. Back on topic.
Haha yes it’s really like a bunker! Actually we refer to it as the bunker all the time.I really want to know more about your bunker garage (seriously!). Concrete walls and ceiling with folding steel doors. May I hang with you during the next zombie apocalypse?!!!
Thanks !great work and attention to detail
Great, thanks for the advice.There’s no value in trying to substantially compress those poly bushings. You are just trying to get them firmly into contact with the arm so there’s no slip when the bar’s action comes into play. I tighten until the bushings are somewhat firmly in contact with the control arm. By my elbow-meter maybe 20ftlbs?
RealOEM shows them inserted from the top, but I guess there’s no harm doing it either way.And insert bolts from the bottom, no chance of getting bent that way.
Thanks for the info.You can use 25mm rotors from an e24. Figure 1.5mm if travel before a new pad touches the rotor. I’m not sure what would happen when you get down to the rivers though.
Also, check with alpina on the rotors. I’m guessing they will have them but will be extremely expensive. There are a lot of factory Alpina cars running around with 28mm brakes so they likely supply them.
Lastly, E32 rotors are 28mm thick. They are huge at 302mm though. If the rotor hats match an e9, you could have a machine shop put them on a lathe and turn them down to the 270mm or so you have in your pics. E32 calipers are a lot different so I wouldn't be surprised if the rotor hats don't match. You can usually see the specs on any old parts chain website. I used the specs on napa parts website when I was doing a big brake upgrade on my jeep. They usually have the height of the rotor hats.