My Alpina B2 powered 3.0CS

JamesE30

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Picked up the engine from the workshop last week.
They checked over and measured everything to make sure it was in spec.
Cylinder head was cleaned and machined flat, valves all checked seals/guides all replaced.
Block was washed and painted, cylinders measured and fine honed, con rods were rehoned and all bearings and rings are new.
Just put the new core plugs in, waiting on some assembly lube to arrive so I can start bolting the rest back together.

Before:
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After
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The Solex 40DDH carburettors were diassassembled, ultrasonicly cleaned and rebuild with all new seals and jets,
I opted not to have them bead blasted because I quite like the aged look of the clean alumium against the brass fittings. Can’t wait to see them in the car!
Tuning will be done on the rolling road when the car is back together.

Before:
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JamesE30

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Good move on the carbs they look great with nice clean patina
Thanks, I think so too. Since they’re a bit special, I didn’t really want the carbs to have that fresh out of the box look, like a new Weber kit or something.
Having said that, the rest of the engine will look pretty much new ‍ Haha oh well
 

Stevehose

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It wont take long for the engine to get a little patina to match the carbs which can be maintained for appearance easier
 

JamesE30

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A couple more much needed panels arrived. Check out the drivers side patch job from before!

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Also my friend finished welding the dolly together from some drawings I made, just need to shorten the front legs due to a typo on my final drawing... ugh

Should hopefully have the car back on the ground tonight.

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JamesE30

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Finally found the time to drop the crankshaft and new bearings in last night.

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I’ve also started rebuilding the cv joints taking care to keep everything in its exact order and position. I followed the thread in this forum which was super helpful but wow, it’s a messy job..

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autokunst

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James, just curious what extent of body repair work you'll be undertaking moving forward. Do you have structural elements to repair/replace (like sills, frame rails, rear sub-frame mounting points, etc)? Or is all of that done (or not needed) and you are only doing paint work? Thanks for sharing your progress (and envious pace).
 

JamesE30

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James, just curious what extent of body repair work you'll be undertaking moving forward. Do you have structural elements to repair/replace (like sills, frame rails, rear sub-frame mounting points, etc)? Or is all of that done (or not needed) and you are only doing paint work? Thanks for sharing your progress (and envious pace).
Frame rails seem ok, just a little bit dented from poor jack placement, but let’s see once they are stripped. Sills look like they will need completely replacing.

The right outer rocker is rusted at the rear, the left outer rocker has been poorly replaced already. Both inner rockers have ugly patchwork, the intermediate rockers of course I haven’t seen yet, but I think it’s safe to assume they will need work. I have already purchased the 3 layers of sheet metal for each side, will wait to se what else is needed until it is taken apart.

Some other major work needs doing, the bulkhead and strut towers need repairing, the roof will be reskinned. The rear of the car actually looks pretty clean so far..
 

JamesE30

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The speed at which you operate is amazing!
Haha thanks, I’m away working in France for the whole winter so I’m trying to get as much done as possible before I leave. The body will be worked on I’m away so at least the progress on that can continue!
 

Willem Tell

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The speed at which you operate is amazing!
Think of all the time James is saving not looking for tools (or parts)! Great work, and beautifully organized work bench. I'm jealous! Working in a rented underground parking space just is not the same thing!
 

JamesE30

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So I picked up Some more parts from the powdercoaters, and some nice blasted aluminium parts to ad to the collection.

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Unfortunately this little guy didn’t survive.. I also had to replace the lower timing chain cover due to corrosion. The one in the pic above is the newer one and looks great.

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And some more black powdercoated parts.
Notice the modified e24 rear brake dust sheilds, identical to the e9 part other than the caliper location but only €30 rather than €126 each!

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Here is one before i cut/powdercoated it. Just need to trace the caliper cut out from the e9 cover.

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And here is something stupid I did.. powdercoat the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. Without thinking too much I threw it in with the box of parts to get coated. Of course after I read the the part is made with rubber inside and should NOT be powdercoated as the heat compromises the rubbers bond to the metal.. doh! Will have to find a replacement.

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And another thing I overlooked..
this Copland pipe was rusted badly and I go lucky and found a NOS unit complete with original Bmw part stickers and surface rust already on it..
I welded closed the small outlet pipe as it was not used on my car, had is powdercoated, and onl now realise that it’s slightly different to what I had before!

I can only assume alpina modified the pipe to fit around the triple carb set up and that my new pipe probably won’t fit unless I do the same! Any thoughts?

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I’m also now questioning if I have the right replacement hoses..
 

JamesE30

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Dropped off a load of parts for zinc plating, including the dust covers for the cv joints.

Apparently these are often deformed due to dropping the trailing arms too low.
I could not find replacements of this exact part, but I did find a nice little trick to straighten them. The e9 rear wheel bearing is an exact fit pressed into the centre of these covers. A few blows with a hammer and some careful massaging using the bearing as a die tool and I was able to get mine 99% round again.

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After hitting them with the brass wire wheel they are now off to be replated.

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JamesE30

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So I think I just found the cause of the oil leak this car suffered from before I tore it apart.

The upper timing chain cover isn’t flush with the cylinder head surface. On the side of the leak below the distributor, there is .51mm difference..
I can’t imagine that will ever seal, so I guess I need a new upper cover?

I can only assume somebody has taken off too much material when trying to get it flat? Or maybe it’s from a different head..

Is there any acceptable amount of difference on these parts or must they be 100%flush?

I just hope the next one isn’t too low as well !

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Wladek

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So I think I just found the cause of the oil leak this car suffered from before I tore it apart.

The upper timing chain cover isn’t flush with the cylinder head surface. On the side of the leak below the distributor, there is .51mm difference..
I can’t imagine that will ever seal, so I guess I need a new upper cover?

I can only assume somebody has taken off too much material when trying to get it flat? Or maybe it’s from a different head..

Is there any acceptable amount of difference on these parts or must they be 100%flush?

I just hope the next one isn’t too low as well !
This cover is definitely from another engine/cylinder head.
There is no acceptable amount of difference, as cylinder head cover gasket will never be properly pressed by cylinder head cover. Top of timing chain cover should be resurfaced together with cylinder head.
You need new one.
 
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