my new engine M30B30

I have a sacrificial valve cover for experimentation so after wire wheel cleaning and buffing on the polisher I smooth filed the casting irregularities out of the strips and roundel, wet and dry papered them to a brushed type finish, masked them off then sprayed a wrinkle finish. Despite my scepticism about the manufacturer's claimed results it came out surprisingly well. The trick is to spray plenty of paint on, contrary to the usual practice of thin layers. Around the roundel it's best to spray the whole thing then, carefully, scrape the paint away before it starts to dry as masking this area is out of the question.

It's not perfect but not bad for an experiment. On the final cover I will clear coat the shiny bits to avoid the inevitable tarnishing in the hostile environment of the engine bay.
 

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Gazz said:
I have a sacrificial valve cover for experimentation so after wire wheel cleaning and buffing on the polisher I smooth filed the casting irregularities out of the strips and roundel, wet and dry papered them to a brushed type finish, masked them off then sprayed a wrinkle finish. Despite my scepticism about the manufacturer's claimed results it came out surprisingly well. The trick is to spray plenty of paint on, contrary to the usual practice of thin layers. Around the roundel it's best to spray the whole thing then, carefully, scrape the paint away before it starts to dry as masking this area is out of the question.

It's not perfect but not bad for an experiment. On the final cover I will clear coat the shiny bits to avoid the inevitable tarnishing in the hostile environment of the engine bay.
Click to expand...

That looks very nice, what brand of wrinkle paint was that?
 
I've used wrinkle finish paint on the valve covers on my previous cars, but decided to try a powder coated wrinkle finish on my CS valvecover.
I'm very happy with the results, exactly the wrinkle texture I was hoping for (done by a powder coating outfit). Should be more durable than the painted version too.

IMG_0147_zps7a18b1e8.jpg


IMG_0151_zps570b40d9.jpg
 
VHT is the brand.

High temperature WRINKLE PLUS is the product. Product code is SP201

Another product of theirs is high temp' WHEEL PAINT in Aluminium. Very tough quality finish that looks exactly like the original BMW bare alloy.

I've tried quite a few rattle sprays and most are rubbish but VHT seems to be one of the better paints.
 
engine support tool

just arrived



i have to fix an addapter, cos usually the engine is placed longitudinally, and bmw states that it has to be transversally fixed in the exhaust area

 
Hey DQ, looking good. I may have missed in your thread but how did you remove the camshaft/rockers? Do you have the BMW tool or a facsimile of it?
 
more parts

engine crown plate



it was very rusty, so i sand blasted it and then i decided to paint the areas that have no mechanical contact, the friction plate was machined

 
a question on a new clutch

there is a question about the clutch that i can not solve

i found a NOS clutch, brand new, it seems that as per the reference is a clutch for e9 (later than 1973) and e24






the problem comes when i make a preassembly, see the picture process:









here you can see a gap of 3,5mm before doing the bolts, my concern is if this gap is ok for a new clutch



my old engine has zero gap as you can see in this picture



so the question is: is it normal to have such a gap (3,5mm) prior to assembly the bolts ?

that will lead into interference when doing the bolts, is this normal for a brand new clutch ?

thanks
 
DeQuincy,

Yes.

The 3.5mm you have is the unsprung pressure plate travel. When you bolt-up the pressure plate to the flywheel (with clutch sandwiched in-between) this will result in spring loading of pressure plate clamping the clutch which prevents the clutch from slipping. This is the fully engaged position of the clutch.

Cheers,

Rod
 
rodspock said:
DeQuincy,

Yes.

The 3.5mm you have is the unsprung pressure plate travel. When you bolt-up the pressure plate to the flywheel (with clutch sandwiched in-between) this will result in spring loading of pressure plate clamping the clutch which prevents the clutch from slipping. This is the fully engaged position of the clutch.

Cheers,

Rod
Click to expand...

hi rod, thank you very much,
very well explained
regards
 
rocker shaft rods









and now my idea for the assembly of the rockers and camshaft

the problem, it is very difficult to assembly the camshaft when the rockers are on their place, on the contrary if the camshaft is mounted, to introduce the the rockers is almost impossible,

there is a tool 7003-1 that press the rockers to lift the pressure from the camshaft allowing its assembly, but in the absence of this tool i have to imagine a solution, this is the idea

 
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