loctite to close the shaft cap
my new engine M30B30
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
final check of axial play (specs: 0,03 to 0,18mm)
checked mine it is between 0,15 and 0,2
checked mine it is between 0,15 and 0,2
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cleaning the block using compressed air and gasoline, despite the block was steammachine cleaned by the shop i found a lot of debriss inside, so i openend all the caps: coolant passage bottom cap, two front and rear oil passage caps, and i used a compressed air tool that allowed me spraying gasoline inside the cavities through a long hose ended in nozzles, you name it, a lot of particles, rests of mud, corroded bits and so on
prepare the block for painting, and covering areas
paint in black high temp
prepare the block for painting, and covering areas
paint in black high temp
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paint is finished
DerSchwede
Well-Known Member
That engine looks better than new!
Wow very nice as usual
block caps
use gasket cement
coat both hole and cap with this cement
use gasket cement
coat both hole and cap with this cement
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block finished and ready for assembly
so with this the block is back to its assembly place
so with this the block is back to its assembly place
Looks great! Very jealous as you know I have yet to take the head off of mine and figure out what to do. You have to post a video once it is running again.
pistons and connecting rods
my brand new, woopy doopy copper mallet, straight from the UK, thanks to the unvaluable help of John
first check each piston and connecting rod, they are identified with numbers (1 to 6), each piston with each rod
please check this, a finished set, number 3,
the connecting rod oiling hole must face frontwards
see the hole here
to assembly one set, first introduce the shaft,
for that gently oil the shaft and the piston with engine oil, and using only your hand introduce the shaft in its hole slightly balancing the shaft while introducing it, you will be able just to intorduce 1 or 2 mm, but it is enough and very important, when this is done properly, you can hit the shaft softly with a copper hammer made in the UK (not less)
place the connecting rod as explained previously, all connecting surfaces oiled, and gently tap the shaft to continue the mounting process
the last few milimeters will need the help of a spare wrench rod piece
then the circlips, introduce one end
use a thin screwdriver
done
my brand new, woopy doopy copper mallet, straight from the UK, thanks to the unvaluable help of John
first check each piston and connecting rod, they are identified with numbers (1 to 6), each piston with each rod
please check this, a finished set, number 3,
the connecting rod oiling hole must face frontwards
see the hole here
to assembly one set, first introduce the shaft,
for that gently oil the shaft and the piston with engine oil, and using only your hand introduce the shaft in its hole slightly balancing the shaft while introducing it, you will be able just to intorduce 1 or 2 mm, but it is enough and very important, when this is done properly, you can hit the shaft softly with a copper hammer made in the UK (not less)
place the connecting rod as explained previously, all connecting surfaces oiled, and gently tap the shaft to continue the mounting process
the last few milimeters will need the help of a spare wrench rod piece
then the circlips, introduce one end
use a thin screwdriver
done
Joder, teniamos seis cilindros!
(untranslatable reaction).
(untranslatable reaction).
you want a tapas of ham and cilantro????
good one, better keep google translator out of reach or the thread will be +18 rated due to strong languaje
another one for your consideration: "esto es la hostia !"
DerSchwede
Well-Known Member
Which pistons did you decide to go with?
Looks really good BTW..
I'm still waiting for the new rocker arms, though that could take another couple of weeks as they were not in stock at BMW !
Cheers
A
Looks really good BTW..
I'm still waiting for the new rocker arms, though that could take another couple of weeks as they were not in stock at BMW !
Cheers
A
Which pistons did you decide to go with?
Looks really good BTW..
I'm still waiting for the new rocker arms, though that could take another couple of weeks as they were not in stock at BMW !
Cheers
A
Hi A. thanks
those are the original pistons at +0,25, i renewed the rings as per post #71
weekend continuation
working on the head,...
rear cover has a tricky point, the seal of the top right bolt:
to explain the process i use, take the coolant hose: clean the surface
components: a wire brush, loctite positioning paste, bolts
coat the gasket with the positioning paste, that will let you position a vertical gasket perfectly
do the bolts sequentially
working on the head,...
rear cover has a tricky point, the seal of the top right bolt:
to explain the process i use, take the coolant hose: clean the surface
components: a wire brush, loctite positioning paste, bolts
coat the gasket with the positioning paste, that will let you position a vertical gasket perfectly
do the bolts sequentially
checking the camshaft play
first you have to do the big nut (41mm) torque: 150 N.m
block the front wheel for doing the nut,
note the blocking plate prepared
check the gap, this is the upper limit, maximum 0,18mm, i checked that gap is between 0,10mm and 0,15mm
first you have to do the big nut (41mm) torque: 150 N.m
block the front wheel for doing the nut,
note the blocking plate prepared
check the gap, this is the upper limit, maximum 0,18mm, i checked that gap is between 0,10mm and 0,15mm
tappet clearance
i will fix cold tappet clearance to 0,25mm, it is the minimum value established in the blue books, and as heat increases the clearance, i will set to minimum value
the famous tool and a 0,25 conviniently bent blade gauge
this is probably unnecessary, but is good to remember, you fix the clearance when the rocker is facing the cylindric side of the camshaft
see a detail:
for CYL 1 in TDC CYL6 is in overlapping, so you adjust the clearance of CYL 1
the setup: you need two hands (fortunately)
detailed sequence:
first loose the nut and place the 0,25 gauge between the cam and the valve,
then using the special tool place the eccentric wheel until everything is in contact: rocker with camshaft, eccentric with gauge and valve, do not overpressure it
now maintain a little pressure in the special tool and grab the 10mm key to fix the nut, slightly do it and when you start to feel resistence stop
remove the special tool and the gauge and press the rocker against the camshaft to avoid distortion over the eccentric, and now do the nut to block it
this last step might seem odd, but if you do not proceed this way you will distort the clearance adding pressure to it and thus reducing the gap
i will fix cold tappet clearance to 0,25mm, it is the minimum value established in the blue books, and as heat increases the clearance, i will set to minimum value
the famous tool and a 0,25 conviniently bent blade gauge
this is probably unnecessary, but is good to remember, you fix the clearance when the rocker is facing the cylindric side of the camshaft
see a detail:
for CYL 1 in TDC CYL6 is in overlapping, so you adjust the clearance of CYL 1
the setup: you need two hands (fortunately)
detailed sequence:
first loose the nut and place the 0,25 gauge between the cam and the valve,
then using the special tool place the eccentric wheel until everything is in contact: rocker with camshaft, eccentric with gauge and valve, do not overpressure it
now maintain a little pressure in the special tool and grab the 10mm key to fix the nut, slightly do it and when you start to feel resistence stop
remove the special tool and the gauge and press the rocker against the camshaft to avoid distortion over the eccentric, and now do the nut to block it
this last step might seem odd, but if you do not proceed this way you will distort the clearance adding pressure to it and thus reducing the gap
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a question, H E L P !
CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ON THIS ?
i would like to know which is the best way to block the camshaft to do the big nut
we are speaking about a torque of 150 N.m, so it is not negligible how to block the shaft to allow the nut to be torqued correctly without damaging the shaft
any help will be appreciated. thanks
CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ON THIS ?
i would like to know which is the best way to block the camshaft to do the big nut
we are speaking about a torque of 150 N.m, so it is not negligible how to block the shaft to allow the nut to be torqued correctly without damaging the shaft
any help will be appreciated. thanks