Newbie - Project begins

[rb1971]

Don - this all looks awesome. Did you or do you plan to add additional structural bracing to the chassis? Or are you going for fully original? I think that's one of the best things I did during my resto.

 

[The Don]

Hi rb1971,

Plan is to keep it original, though I do have some e24 Recaros to swap the front seats.:roll:

Did you put in a bigger engine, or is the bracing to assist driveability with the stock 3.0?

 

[rb1971]

I did put in a bigger motor (and made a lot of other changes besides). But the chassis strengthening modifications I made were to a large extent based on things that BMW and various racing teams did to CSL's that they raced back in the day. These changes definitely affect drivability generally.

Check out this page on coupe king's website. I did a lot more stuff in addition, but this is a pretty good guide.

http://www.coupeking.com/body-reinforcement-cs-2295

 

[The Don]

Only wish I had come across this before the acid re-dip?

Thanks for the link though, some useful tips here

 

[paul corcoran]

Spl

hi, yes the one at SPL with the cage is frogisland he has a video up on you tube before....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFvAZW5kI24

waiting for the after....

the rb1971 restoration/conversion is incredible have you seen the flickr stream don? i keep pouring over it

this shell of mine is at spl at the moment, video stand off!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dk9-c9niKAU

 

[The Don]

Rotisserie mounting points

Hi Frogisland,

Finally remembered to get some pics of the rotisserie mounting points as requested.

Went with some of the body colour (Inka) on top of the Anti Gravel stonechip but looks very bright indeed. :roll:

When we get to the body, I think black as a base (rather than just the primer) will be best to make the orange look a little darker.

 

[frogisland]

thanks for the photos, need to think about the rear mounting on mine, the entire floor is being cut out to allow for a frame and dropped/lowered aluminium box.

Nice in orange, likely the colour mine will be although exterior panels only, underneath/engine bay/interior/trunk area will be satin black.

JP

 

[The Don]

Update

Here are some pics taken today

also, got a replacement door skin so as not to have to put lots of filler/bondo in

Just had some Inka (022) water based paint mixed up by my local PPG paint supplier to use on the outer panels. This will be sprayed over a black base to tone down the brightness abit.

 

[John Buchtenkirch]

I've always been a believer in lead being superior to bondo.
One of our local top restorer agrees. Another local restorer who I used recently swears modern plastic fillers are far superior to lead.

Both agree that either choice needs to be applied over a properly prepped substrate or both will exacerbate the formation of new rust. Lead, in particular, uses an acidic flux which can cause problems on the underlying metal. The best modern, plastic fillers won't help if they're not applied to scrupulously clean base metal.

The guy who swears by plastic over lead did a Pebble Beach best of show car, and has convinced me both types of filler are fine if used sparingly and properly.

John

The main problem with lead is very few modern auto body men know how to neutralize the chemicals used in application properly. They have a paint job go bad because of flux contamination and then they bad mouth lead to everyone who will listen. Another problem is only 14” flat & convex lead files are still available anymore so cutting it down in some areas is difficult. Health dangers for body men and very few people wanting to pay for the additional time are also problems.



The idea of putting plastic on bare metal is dated by probably 15 or 20 years now. The more modern way is to coat the bare metal with a rust resistant etching epoxy primer, let it dry and lightly sand it to give it teeth. Coat that with plastic (Bondo) and cover that with epoxy after you have sanded the plastic to its true shape. The idea is to encapsulate the plastic (which can absorb water) in waterproof epoxy primer. That is what my friends that still sling plastic tell me, I admittedly haven’t painted or done plastic work for maybe 25 years now. Thank God, the metal work keeps me very busy. ~ John Buchtenkirch

 

[The Don]

Latest update

Car is now being prepped for paint - yippeeeee!!! :-o

actually ... still a long way to go :-(

 

[paul corcoran]

looks great you'll be getting a bit of attention on the way to tesco's in that!!,

your running away with this one!! have you sorted the engine/interior etc is everything else ready to go once the paint is done? I'm guessing you have seen the inka modified buy member RB1971 (think thats his id) this will be the UK challenger!! let me know if and when you need interior cards... thanks paul

 

[rb1971]

Looks great. I remember how excited I was when my car was in this state. fingers' crossed you'll be on the road in no time.

 

[The Don]

Thanks guys,

things are starting to move along more quickly now as prepping is moving along. Will be good to get to the next phase where paint is all done.

Hopefully primed by end of this week and in paint next week

 

[The Don]

Today's update

Hi all,

I have been slacking on keeping the forum updated with progress.... so here goes

Body has now been primed, painted, colour sanded, lacquered and now being polished.

Re-fit should be starting now, but boy I need to work harder or buy shares in Walloth & Nesch and Jaymic for the amount of parts that I have bought. Currently, hiding invoices from my wife!!!

Suspension all now back from powder coater, all chrome is being re-done and rear seats are being re-trimmed to match front recaros (also being re-furbed). 14" genuine Jun '72 stamped Alpinas also ready and waiting.

A few items are shown awaiting to be built up off the car.

I guess the real work starts now ... good job the English summer looks like it will be rained off!

 

[paul corcoran]

racing ahead!!

wow this is annoying!! id better get a move on this looks amazing, i am dreading the jaymic/walloth order so have distracted myself with this discovery....your shell looks great by the way!!

 

[30csl]

That looks lovely, Inka is my favourite colour on this body - no need to use black base coat in my humble opinion - this was the colour so let it be!

Well done for saving the car and progress has been brilliant.

 

[Tomedian]

Any idea of costs - E9 Paint Stripping & painting?

Hi Readie,

Process is surprisingly painless. I am glad I went to see the process initially as Phil & Matt took the time to take me through everything that would happen and even showed me a car coming out of the tank (another E9).

It takes 2 - 3 weeks to get the shell back dependent on how many cars they have in front of you. Actual dipping process is probably only 2-3 days.

They take digital shots of the shell when it arrives and will point out any areas that they think might have an issue with the acid before they start and are happy to show you some of their extensive photo gallery of cars.

If you have not checked them out already www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk will show you their gallery.

I have found them very friendly and would recommend them.

This approach seems the way to go, but unlikely I will find a simialr service in Sweden..

 

[The Don]

Hi Tomedian,

SPL charged me £950 for initial stripping. After welding etc.. A re-dip is £475.

e-coating costs around £1400. So around £3000 + 20% tax if you have the lot.

I did not have the e-coating in the end.

 

[Tomedian]

Ok thanks, I received their quote today also, just as you explained...Now I have seen the results, it is hard not to justify the cost, one might hope to recoup in the longer term. When will your better half find out how much you have been spending..LOL.

 

[The Don]

Hi,

I have become a dab hand at losing receipts! Still had to invest in a new leather sofa/settee to keep the love alive!

All external Chrome trim and bumpers are back and look brand new.

Found a source for new carpets, cut to size with bound edges, in the UK for £219 (excludes boot/trunk carpet). Arrived today - took 10 days from the phone call. Coverdale UK in Wigan. www.coverdaleuk.com 01942 255535

Also found a good guy to do my leather seats re-furb, nearby me in Sutton Coldfield. www.BespokeLeathering.com. John is a nice guy and reasonable too since the Recaros need foam on the bolsters, new leather on the shoulders and both seats dyed to match rears, rear seats and rear central armrest covered in black Nappa leather. 0121 439 5633.

I had a surprise when I turned up to see that he had a complete E9 interior under wraps recently done in tan nappa leather, including door cards and under steering piece and rear parcel shelf.