Raven gets a new nest

Hey Stephen, It's looking good! It rained enough last night that you could have had a pool for a day...

When I poured new concrete on our garage 12 years ago I used a an epoxy product with broadcast 3M quartz granules. It provides an attractive grippy and durable surface that can almost infinitely be varied in hue by the use of different color granules. Although I'm a consummate DIYer, this is one where I really felt it was worth having someone apply a better product than I could get and have had the experience of having done it 100s of times. It's a one-way trip and if it doesn't work out at first, difficult and spendy to unwind and re-do.

Pic of a sample below and the product on my floor 12 years later. The sample is NOT the same color mix I had applied.

I have the contact info of the guy who did it for me, if you're interested.

IMG_2112.JPG


IMG_2113.JPG


IMG_2115.JPG
 
Hi Luis, Would love to learn who your contact is. I'll PM you.
In the 18 to 24 hours since yesterday's conversations, I have warmed up immensely to the idea of "someone else" doing the floor. In fact, I put a call into "Garage Floors of Wisconsin" this morning. They do epoxy floors. I think i have a sample of Dex-O-Tex in our sample library from a brewery we did...
 
CSteve said:
Did Frank and Mies and Philip and Louie and that gang know they were designing "Cabins." Fill in those chinks and clean the chimney Ma, winter is a comin soon.
Click to expand...
autokunst said:
Hi Luis, Would love to learn who your contact is. I'll PM you.
In the 18 to 24 hours since yesterday's conversations, I have warmed up immensely to the idea of "someone else" doing the floor. In fact, I put a call into "Garage Floors of Wisconsin" this morning. They do epoxy floors. I think i have a sample of Dex-O-Tex in our sample library from a brewery we did...
Click to expand...
Really dumb question. I have a brick floor over that grey, grainy fill material over a vapor barrier. Can I do something like epoxy or ??? Or am i stuck with the brick?
 
Steve, I am not an epoxy substrate expert - but I would have to imagine that the substrate needs to be sound and crack free. Even on concrete floors, the first thing they do is fill the cracks. Your brick floor is an entire grid of "cracks". I'd think one option would be to pull the bricks up, repair any breaches in the vapor barrier, and pour a concrete slab in there. Then you could do epoxy, paint, sealer, or nothing.
 
CSteve said:
Did Frank and Mies and Philip and Louie and that gang know they were designing "Cabins." Fill in those chinks and clean the chimney Ma, winter is a comin soon.
Click to expand...
Perhaps my definition of cabin is a bit inaccurate. It is a house in the woods. Heck, it's right in the name: Bluff House
 
autokunst said:
Perhaps my definition of cabin is a bit inaccurate. It is a house in the woods. Heck, it's right in the name: Bluff House
Click to expand...
Stephen, there is no bluffing with that house. It is the real deal. So, what about painting the brick. It is dirty, some of it, especially in the Coupe bay is oil stained. One side gets no traffic, the other. the coupe going in and out a couple of times a month. Since I have now turned all my coupe work over to my mechanic I would not want to get involved in a major project. I have worked in there for over 20 years. Now it is shelter and some storage(above with pulldown stairs). Built on a small budget, T111 siding, no insulation or sheetrock. Questionable electrical source(let's just say does not meet code), propane heater.

It has served me well, no complaints.

Steve
 
Steve,

You can definitely paint brick. You need to ise
masonry primer though. I would be worried about a brick barrier with earth on the other side though. Any type of latex paint will likely start peeling because of moisture. I painted my brick home but it is the opposite scenario. The elements are in contact with the latex paint, but it is only warm dry air coming from the other side of the brick.

If you have ever seen painted interior cinder block, that may give you an idea of a likely outcome.
 
@autokunst,

Another option would be to acid stain and seal the concrete. The acid goes a very long way. On fresh concrete it would be by far the cheapest and easiest option. You could also do it before the 30 day window, and if you don’t like it just epoxy over it (before sealing). Honestly it looks quite good without polishing also, assuming it is fresh concrete.


So far my favorite is Andrew’s dyed concrete.
 
Markos said:
You can definitely paint brick
Click to expand...
I don't know about painting brink on a floor. But when painting a brick wall (solid brick wall - mass wall), it is critical to use a special paint that allows the brick t breath. Vapor needs to be able to transpire through the brick, else the moisture will build up behind the paint and delaminate it.
Markos said:
Another option would be to acid stain and seal the concrete.
Click to expand...
I've not generally been a fan of acid stained concrete. It is just too common with suburban architecture (basements and patios). There are some okay examples, but I'd rather let the material express itself as it is (concrete looks like concrete). If I could simply seal the concrete in such a manner as to give the same cleanability and also have the same chemical resistance as epoxy, that would be an attractive option.
 
autokunst said:
I've not generally been a fan of acid stained concrete. It is just too common with suburban architecture (basements and patios). There are some okay examples, but I'd rather let the material express itself as it is (concrete looks like concrete). If I could simply seal the concrete in such a manner as to give the same cleanability and also have the same chemical resistance as epoxy, that would be an attractive option.
Click to expand...

I agree about most stain concrete. The blotches and swirls and overall pattern is “meh”. I’ve had good luck with consistently staining fresh concrete. If I stained a floor, it would be dark grey with a satin finish. Same thing for epoxy, just plain grey with no visual additions.

I’m all out of ideas. Keep us posted!
 
Markos said:
I agree about most stain concrete. The blotches and swirls and overall pattern is “meh”. I’ve had good luck with consistently staining fresh concrete. If I stained a floor, it would be dark grey with a satin finish. Same thing for epoxy, just plain grey with no visual additions.

I’m all out of ideas. Keep us posted!
Click to expand...
This has been an education. Thanks!
 
Okay, I thought of another idea that I did. This one isn’t a targeted recommendation for you @autokunst, just something that I did that others may appreciate. My garage walls are half concrete, of varying heights given the slope of my lot. Between 36” and 50”. I concealed the concrete while still allowing it to breathe.

I used construction adhesive and glued three exterior grade horizontal firing strips along the concrete (top, bottom, middle). I ordered galvanized corrugated steel sheet cut to the desired consistent height. Self tapping screws on top middle and bottom. It looks much better than the concrete and would work well on block walls.

Total cost was about $300 for about 60 linear feet with the wood and the glue and the metal. I only did the two walls with exposed concrete.


I don’t have a great pic but you get the idea.
F864ED32-7F52-4026-AA7D-F1A41AA371C8.jpeg
 
I will have about an 8" to 12" knee wall that I need to cover with something. Haven't decided what yet, but at that low height it will essentially be a "step". Love the cabinets!
 
autokunst said:
:D And I still have little confidence in the trades up here and do not anticipate a "flat" floor, either. :oops: Still love the tile idea, though. It would look like a showroom in there!
Click to expand...
As a summer job during college (and for one year when I was teaching HS), I worked as a cement finisher. Did most everything during those summers from basements/garages to interstate highways. I'd agree with Stephen relating to getting a good expanse of 'wet cement' absolutely flat. The processes used to 'level', then float, then finally smooth with a trowel do not lend themselves to having a completely flat surface. Cement finishing is a lot like rough carpentry, not like fine cabinetry!!

Gary
 
It is a sad state of affairs. We see more and more that things don't get built like they used to. We do a lot of ground and polished concrete floors in our projects. and we have to call special attention to this when the masons pour the concrete that a different trade will then grind - because to get it flat enough for grinding they need to charge more. It is frustrating, because every Home Depot has a beautifully flat, polished floor. But they can get larger and better equipment into those spaces.

I'd bet that the slabs @Gary Knox was smoothing out as a summer job are better than much of what we get on million dollar houses these days.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top