The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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teahead said:
@bela
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adawil2002 said:
Done properly with modern epoxy primers & paint your car will last another 35-40 years.

Interior wood will add another $4,500 to the budget easily and will take at least 6-8 weeks.

Headrests are easy. Penetrating oil like WD40 down the posts, wait a while and pull up. They should free up. May need to put protecting wood on the seat top & headrest and use some leverage to raise them up.
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Or use P Blaster to get those headrests to move...
 
Stan said:
Or use P Blaster to get those headrests to move...
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Oy! P Blaster has such a nasty smell. I'm just ok with the smell of WD4o, but I draw the line at putting P Blaster anywhere inside where I'd have to smell it for weeks. I sure wouldn't put it inside my seats. I have some nice synthetic sewing machine oil that is much more stable and has much less smell. It's heavier than WD40, but given time should soak in enough to do the trick. Here's the one I got it from eBay a while back.
 
Wow...$1300 to re-veneer those few dash pieces? I need to start doing some side work..I'm a custom woodworker/furniture maker by trade...That's a tiny little veneer job.. Hmmmm....:). Here's a little piece of that Triumph's dash I was redoing for a collector friend....(fun fact: it was on the cover of the Abbey Road album...:) Cool! Also got to restore the engine bay and interior..


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StephenZ said:
Wow...$1300 to re-veneer those few dash pieces? I need to start doing some side work..I'm a custom woodworker/furniture maker by trade...That's a tiny little veneer job.. Hmmmm....:). Here's a little piece of that Triumph's dash I was redoing for a collector friend....(fun fact: it was on the cover of the Abbey Road album...:) Cool! Also got to restore the engine bay and interior..


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Agreed that this should not be that difficult or cost that much based upon the information I am saying. I’m going to find out if there someone local that can do this. I believe there are plenty of carpenters and Wood people here. Definitely going to clean up the engine bay. The interior doesn’t need terribly much but will be addressing that in time


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I sent this from my phone last night and obviously did not catch the auto correct from “great” to “dream”. I guess my iPhone knows how I really feel!


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StephenZ said:
Wow...$1300 to re-veneer those few dash pieces? I need to start doing some side work..I'm a custom woodworker/furniture maker by trade...That's a tiny little veneer job.. Hmmmm....:). Here's a little piece of that Triumph's dash I was redoing for a collector friend....(fun fact: it was on the cover of the Abbey Road album...:) Cool! Also got to restore the engine bay and interior..


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Maybe a future side money making opportunity?
 
Scott,

I know you are now going to write a bigger check (or several checks) than you had expected to write, but seeing the status of corrosion, I want to compliment you on doing the right thing.

The car will be stronger for better handling, and will be more durable for the long run. I think the quality of the restoration is now VERY IMPORTANT since it will live in perpetuity here on the internet. Any shortcuts that are taken and not disclosed at the time of the future sale could lead the next owner (who I assume would buy it from you) seeking restitution. There are a lot of lawyers who are always looking for a new lawsuit to pursue!!

My compliments, you will have a beautiful car that you are proud of when this is done.

Gary--

PS: Don't have a 'carpenter' work on the dash and side wooden pieces, find a high quality furniture re-finisher or cabinet maker.
 
i redid all mine w/ a sheet of veneer
really quite easy
strip sand and coat with wood glue both side let dry overnite
and set with a steam iron over cloth
piece of cake
saves ton of money and time
 
Gary Knox said:
Scott,

I know you are now going to write a bigger check (or several checks) than you had expected to write, but seeing the status of corrosion, I want to compliment you on doing the right thing.

The car will be stronger for better handling, and will be more durable for the long run. I think the quality of the restoration is now VERY IMPORTANT since it will live in perpetuity here on the internet. Any shortcuts that are taken and not disclosed at the time of the future sale could lead the next owner (who I assume would buy it from you) seeking restitution. There are a lot of lawyers who are always looking for a new lawsuit to pursue!!

My compliments, you will have a beautiful car that you are proud of when this is done.

Gary--

PS: Don't have a 'carpenter' work on the dash and side wooden pieces, find a high quality furniture re-finisher or cabinet maker.
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Thank you. I agree that doing it in this fashion makes the most sense and I am glad to document it here. Although others have documented their restoration using images, I think the video tells the complete story. I have no intention of ever selling the vehicle and since I have no children so it will be up to some trustee or another to deal with at some much later date


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Silly Questions:
  • short of doing a full restore, what else should I be doing now that I am not otherwise doing?
  • not like I am going to sell it, but curious and for insurance purpose, what do you think the car would be worth on BAT auction after this work is done, assuming it goes as well as expected. You can withhold judgement if you want until it is done. See list below on stuff I have had done
  • would i be crazy to race this on track, not competitively but just for fun? Do you think structurally it would be ok to race a few times a year, very carefully.

  • Bought this coupe in July 2011 https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/74-black-tan-3-0cs-on-ebay.9128/

    • First ride:
  • New exhaust from coupe king

  • Nardi Wheel

  • OEM Chrome

  • OEM new carpets/mats

  • Something with steering box

  • Lower spacers

  • Faster e28 power windows

  • Adjusted doors to close properly

  • New weber carbs

  • New cylinder head

  • New performance camshaft Schrick - M30 Camshafts Schrick - M30 Camshafts

  • Electronic fuel pump

  • New stereo and speakers

  • New tires

  • Fix sunroof

  • Clean windows, etc.

  • Full paint job and limited rust restoration

  • Refurbished seatbelts

  • 73 chrome bumpers replaced

  • Electric fuel pump

  • New antenna

  • Added right side view mirror and moved left forward
 
Scott,

I think the work scope is good for now.

Really have to look at comparative sales. Estimate $45-$60K.

Not crazy to get the car on a track. Duane Sword regularly tracks his coupe 4-5 time a season. Keep in mind, you won't break any track records or pull 3 Gs in the curves. On the track and in the classroom at driver schools is the best place to learn how your car behaves and will make you a better and safer driver.

Your car will handle better with Bilstein HDs all around Carl Nelson springs, negative camber plates & Suspension Techniques anti-sway bars F-28mm, R- 22mm, can all be sourced from La Jolla Independent BMW. My set up was $1500 installed.
 
I think you'll have a $50-$60K car when you're done, which is strong for a driver, as opposed to a concours queen.

As for the wood, I had my doors redone (dash was in excellent condition) at Madera Concepts in Goleta, CA, and just the four pieces were $1000 (they turned out terrific). The problem I had was that while Bela quoted almost 400 dollars less, the shipping quote I got from UPS was $850! Seems the door strips were long enough to bump them into a more pricy category. Hopefully someone has a better idea on shipping. Madera said the dash would be roughly another $1000. Since I didn't really need it, and I didn't already have the windshield out, I passed on that.
 
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